/*23 Breaths: I can hardly wait until the next time*/

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

I can hardly wait until the next time


another mat meet in the books

I have been rather out-of-sorts for most of the long weekend.

It occurred to me explaining the general layout,

"It's a point break masquerading as a beach break, paddle out to the right."

but there is no point break, no real channel

there is the occasional long left

and the occasional set on the head

What could happen?

After giving up on finessing a set wave from the locals

I tried to sit inside the outside and be in the right spot ,

really a little inside of the right spot really,

and dodge the sets and the omnipresent long-boarders

What could happen?

Well you could lose your mat

which happened,

twice

lowered in the surf pecking order to body surfer

that could really be a raise in the order

I don't know for sure and don't care even more.

The first time was a basic trashing

embedded in the breaking wave

a brief trip down the elevator shaft to the bargain basement

sundries, foundations and wet cement

the later causing me to release my grasp of my mat

fortunately it popped up a few feet away.

The next time, I don't really remember what happened

so much of the weekend seemed to be an out of body experience

but my mat was on it's way to shore.

Enjoying its own ride while I enjoyed a nice body surf in the soup.

On shore my resolve for another go out slowly crumbled.

The nice thing about surfing is that

it doesn't matter in the least.

Good surf, no problem

Bad surf, no problem

no surf, no problem

I can hardly wait until the next time


Surfmatters for all the pics

3 comments:

Brine Time said...

quite an outing by the sounds of it
body surfer without enhancing technology is the highest in my pecking order
lowest is the selfish accumulator of waves while th erest patiently wait their turn

Surfsister said...

Notice I wouldn't paddle out at all. I've been burning the candle at both ends lately. I could tell those waves weren't offering a whole lot of fun. And I knew I wasn't up to the task of making the effort to brave those sets to find a shoulder. I had a grand time watching the carnage and rescuing your mat. I think you and I will be firing on all cylinders at the next mat meet.

Mike said...

Enough already!Ambrose says it better...