/*23 Breaths: April 2009*/

Monday, April 27, 2009


I had a lot of trouble with the title this morning

Stoked and Stroked in Sun City?

Stuck inside of Murrieta with the Cardiff blues again?

So I am going with XXXX until something better comes along (it didn't)

Quick Mom update
Mom's doing great but I will be continue chauffeur and house boy duties for awhile

Mat meet report
wind was the word for the weekend apparently
sorry guys next time it should be better

This experience has given me a lot to think about and that will spill over to my posting here but I don't see changing the blog name to dizziness-and-balance.com (there already is one) any time soon.

I will step up on my soap box and say that a simple blood pressure test is a super easy way to find out a lot about what is going on with your circulatory system. If you combine that with knowing your blood cholesterol levels you have a handle on dealing with strokes and heart disease which I believe are the number one and two causes of death in the US.

Oh and it doesn't really matter how old or young you are. You need to know these things about how your body is functioning.

OK enough soap box for now.

Since I can't occupy my time with real surfing I have been Internet surfing up a storm here in the Inland Empire.

First on the list is Birdman Tribe. A very nice words and original pictures blog. The blog is subtitled "Images of the Chumash Coast" and that describes it better than I can. Definitely a bit of everything here. Go check it out.

Next up is Liz Cockrum Photography great shots with links to more great shots. I am tempted to say that she focuses mainly on girls that surf but that would be too limiting and so I won't. Go check it out, it's very much worth the time to browse thru. The quiver shots are fantastic.

BTW I found Liz Cockrum's site at Maggie Marsek's site Sea Layer. You may have seen her work around (she has gallery's for each of the AB3 events) and you may have even picked up some of her work at the Encinitas Street Fair last weekend.

I am going to finish up to with Alma Pura. What can I say but that I love the simple shape it, glass it, ride it approach to a surf blog. You can almost smell the resin on this one. Nice.

One more thing, Daniel who you all remember for his blog "Wine and Woodsmoke" has moved on to herding surf bloggers. His new project is an international communal effort called Talkin' Story . He has gotten several of my favorites to sign up and start blending content. I am excited to be a reader/follower of this effort.

Daniel has, in a no doubt temporary lapse of good judgement, asked me to contribute as well. I will attempt to sit up straight and write something interesting sometime soon.

PS for some reason I wasn't able to post photos this morning to give you a taste of the links this morning but give the links above a go, you will be glad you did.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Important update

First off the deal is still set to go Saturday morning at Seaside reef
(big parking lot south of Cardiff)

Time wise, the earlier the better as there could be wind issues
(this mornings NWS crystal ball run looks OK though)

I would like everyone that would like to come down to do so and have a blast!

Unfortunately, I may not be there.

My mom had a stroke yesterday morning.

She is doing very well under the circumstances.

I need to be there to take care of "things" and look after my dad.

I would still like to make it

but as I always told my kids when the real answer was no.

We'll see...

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Happy Earth Day!

Nice earth shot above

Looks like a hurricane in the US gulf coast and there's a good size low in the North Pacific.

I like shots like this because you can see the earth as a whole without the artificial country boundaries we arbitrarily establish and then change.

It's a view somewhat above the normal human concerns.

That storm in the Gulf coast doesn't care that it's going to hit the US.

If conditions were right it might be heading more to the west and into Mexico.

That's just how it is.

No problem.

Of course I mean no problem for the storm, thousands of lives depend on the landfall of the storm.

The point being that it is a big interrelated organizational structure that earthlings can barely grasp. 

But since it's Earth Day, 

take a breath 

and let it out

and try to feel the planet

No luck,

that's ok

Belated Happy Birthday to John Muir.

If you haven't read his work yet then take a stroll on down to the library and pick up a copy of any of his books.  

Good stuff 

Enjoy the day

P.S. Looks like the California Official Matters Interaction Club (COMIC) 
will be having a meeting on Saturday morning 
(hopefully the wind won't be up like it is this morning)
We will be meeting in the Seaside reef parking lot (south of Cardiff reef)
Relocation is an option depending on conditions so email me your cell number and I will try to keep everyone in the loop

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

What are you doing for Earth Day?

I'm a big fan of the earth so it's a major holiday for me.

It seems like each year the “celebration” gets a little smaller and a lot more commercial.

I swear I have seen corporate marketing done for Earth Day on Styrofoam!

While I certainly don't mind going to a celebration of some sort,

I think that it should be to reinforce more of a mind set than a party.

I try to keep the spirit of the thing more low key and personal.

So, what are you going to do?

Spend more time picking up trash, plant a tree, resolve to ride your bike more, tend the garden etc.

Good habits to be sure but there are more important issues facing us and future generations.

Take Styrofoam for example.

Can anyone tell me why we use a material that never decomposes for single use applications?

How about those plastic carry out bags?

Same deal.

Either that stuff ends up in a land fill or it ends up in the ocean.

There is virtually no where else for it to go.

What can YOU do?

Bring your own bags to the store, it's not that hard.

Even if you only do it half the time it helps.

There in a bill in California (AB 1358) to ban Styrofoam containers.

Google the bill and check it out.

If you agree, support it with emails to your representatives.

Tell your friends!

OK, here is today's home assignment

Think about what you consume

Consider, for a moment where these things come from, how they are produced, handled and or manufactured.

Is there a great deal of waste involved in their production?

Are toxic chemicals used as a part of the production process?

Do they need to be transported from far away?

Are they over wrapped?

If it breaks, can it be fixed or do you have to throw it away and buy a new one?

Now ask your self, do I really need it?

How likely will it end up in a land fill in a year?

Does it seem a bit much?

I'll leave you with the following thought to ponder.

“True affluence is not needing anything” - Gary Snyder

PS I posted this early so you would have some time to think about it.

Monday, April 20, 2009


It looks like next Saturday may be a go for the our next Mat-a-poloosa

(I really really hate the phrase Mat Meet or Mat Meat, I don't know why.)

The weekend updates for surf forecasting are as follows

Wetsand Sunday Forecast - "we are still on track for that southern hemi Thursday, lasting into the weekend. "

WaveWatch - "Our next new S-SSW swell (190-215) will be moving in on the 22nd...building through the day...and then peaking on the 23-24th. This swell looks pretty healthy...not huge, but consistently head high at the better S facing breaks and some overhead+ sets at the standouts as it peaks."

These may change slightly but it does look like we have a moderately sized south swell arriving Wed/Thur

(since they are always late lets go with Thursday)

There looks to be sufficient swell for us to still have some fun on Saturday.

Location, Location, Location (as they say) is still not finalized but since most of the crew is in SD I am leaning that way to minimize the carbon footprint of the event.

Hey it's Earth Day this week so I am just trying to do my share.

As always check back here for the latest but I would clear my calendar for Saturday if you plan on attending.

Email me with thoughts concerns hopes dreams etc.

I would have had a nice picture as part of the post but Kaser's camera is down so I have nothing to steal, ugh I mean borrow

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Mat Meat

OK, so it looks like the weekend on April 25 - 26 is the first choice. We will fall back to the following weekend if it looks flat on the 25 / 26.

As to location, I want to wait to see how the swell forecasts look next week before making the call.

Two possibilities are in the general vicinity of Cardiff or more in the Cottons / Trestles / Church area.

More news on this early next week or drop me a line anytime!

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

The Life and Films of Alby Falzon

I saw this over at Cabinessence

Definitely worth a look

I thought since we were talkin about Alby, I would add in a few more clips


Now I have to dig thru all my junk and find my MOTE DVD.

The new movie "The Life and Films of Alby Falzon" does look interesting.

It's proof of the old adage, "Interesting people make interesting films"

PS Forgot to include a link to the offical MOTE site - Morning of the Earth

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Rotten Eddy

Nothing to do but put out the trash cans, surf the Internets and make some bread.

Which is to say that another eddy has spun up and will blow the surf to junk for the next few days

and it's trash day

So for your dining and dancing pleasure I submit these links for your approval,

First off Kaser over at Daily Bread has given us a daily dose of visual stoke for ages is hooking up with Eppic Surf to allow you to buy prints of his photos.

The stuff he took of the Wedge the other day was fantastic

Check it out here

An anonymous source (or a little birdy, your choice) advised me that there is a blog dedicated to photos of David Nuuhiwa. I grew up in Huntington and got to see him surf there a lot so I'm happy to see something like this set up.

Photo from davidnuuhiwa.blogspot.com

Ok, now who will start one of these for Jock Sutherland?

Surfbird is a new to me blog with a minimalist layout and TONS of great pictures. Something you will want to bookmark and check regularly.

In the tons of pictures category is Bodysurf an Australian website dedicated to body surfing photos from various artists. This may be the site that makes me upgrade my Internet access from modem to cable.

Photo from www.bodysurf.com.au/

That all for today, the dough has risen and I knead to go deal with it.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Another mat gathering

Several(OK most) of you matters at the recent AB3 mentioned that we should get everyone together for a spring gathering.

So how does the weekends of April 25, 26 or May 2, 3 sound?

The week days are just as good for me but just let me know what works for you.

We will be gathering in a San Diego or Orange County location which has also yet to be determined.

So what I need from you is something in the comments or and email with date(s) you are available and a location you prefer.

I will try to get the most people to the most central location (with surf).

New matters are always welcome

Friday, April 10, 2009

Bad Haiku Friday


I would like to share with you a response to one of my posts.

In the post, I linked to some essays on the authors site.

Always after a good read, that me!

The reader had this comment.

August said...
"The best books are lived, not written"

APRIL 9, 2009 9:57 AM

It was such a good quote I assumed it was famous and tried to look it up on the Internet to find the source.

Missing the point entirely, obviously

I usually have pretty good luck finding things using Google.

I didn't find anything so I am crediting it directly to August.
(Great one August)

The closest thing to it was a twitter,

"The best books are never published.
In fact they are never written.
The best books are lived by amazingly ordinary people.
No title needed."

The same thought with a few more words. Beautiful

What an interesting thought to contemplate for a few minutes!

We each have our own lives to live.

it's happening right now

So THIS is your life

reading this random blog entry


If I had known, I would have tried harder to make it better;)

Is it everything you thought it would be?

I would you suggest you get up and go outside

It's sprinkling here

a sunny day in Seattle!

Enjoy the weekend

(sorry I snuck that in there on you, but it's Bad Haiku Friday and we are at the end)


To all my Christian friends, Happy Easter.

To the rest of you try to limit your intake of chocolate eggs.

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Two more for Thursday

I thought I might catch a few before the next front comes in

but it was windy again this morning.

I wish I would have caught a couple extra on Monday!

By the way how big are the sand toys on your beach?

Newport Beach continues with its "beach sculpting" program.

In other news

I did get the garden planted this week

Well really half the garden planted, I will plant the other half in a couple of weeks so the harvest will be staggered.

So that's something

Here are a couple of Kiwi blogs I came across

Board Riding Scooter Trash which is worth a look

Fish and Log documents some fine board making below the equator.

Thats all for now need to work on my taxes!

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Links Wednesday!

Checked the surf this morning and against all odds it wasn't too bad!

The dominant swell seems to have changed direction and the winds were light.

I thought I would pass along a few links today

This is my go to link for the mornings weather

NOAA Hourly Weather Forecast

This one is specific to my local area so you may need to configure the link for your area and the info you need.

I usually have some idea what the swell is doing.

I intentionally don't look that up before I leave the house so I have a surprise when I get to the beach.

Here is a new find for me you may already be familiar with the author

Joe Bageant

He apparently only has one book out "Deer Hunting with Jesus" but there are dozens of essays you can read on his website.

If you had to label him, I would say "cultural anthropologist" but I think the Mother Jones quote does a better summary.

"Bageant writes with the ghosts of Hunter S. Thompson, Will Rogers, and Frank Zappa kibitzing over his shoulder"

Enjoy the read!

On a personal note, it has warmed up a bit outside and I need to go work in the garden.

Those seeds aren't going to plant themselves!

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Nice Waves

Nice waves the last couple of days

South swell, shoulder high, occasionally overhead


I mention it now as the wind is on it and with the weather we are expecting over the next couple of days that probably the end of it.

Nice while it lasted though

For reasons totally unknown to me I rode my fish for the last couple of days

I had fun on it

When I say fish I mean something on the lines of this

Not me or my board, but the one I am riding currently is a descendant in terms of the fins and outline. A little less rocker in the nose.

I was at the AB3 gathering a week ago and there are quite a few variations of fish these days.

Shot from the AB3 site of boards at the Alley Fish Fry

Always good to see variation and innovation in design.

I rode my mat most of the time (rode the yellow hand plane for a while).

Which in retrospect, was probably a mistake with so many great boards to try

But I did meet up with a couple other mat riders so it all equals out

Here is my totally incomplete review.

I liked the Pendo Flex fish by Steve Pendarvis.

I think Mr. Pendarvis just brought his personal quiver down and let people try what they wanted. You don't see too many shapers bringing their regular riders down to let strangers have a go. I really wanted to talk to him and have him explain his theories. I get the feeling it would have been worth the time spent out of the water.

Of the Ice9 boards, I believe someone mentioned that the sweet looking single fin was Terry Martin's Scared Craft "shape one like Diff" board. There is an opportunity that doesn't come around often. A master shapers take on another master shapers boards.

Another entry in the personal quiver group was Andy Smith bringing his Lis' and Frye's down to let strangers try. THAT made me nervous (I would have had armed guards).

TFAD, on the erBB asked if having a competition as part of the event was good or bad.

Here is the link to the question and discussion.

I for one appreciate the free blanks that ice9 donated as prizes to the winning shapers.

But does Stewart or Martin need another blank?

Neither one won anything so we'll never know.

So while I don't care if there are awards you may need to divide it up between amateurs and professionals.

Which opens up another can o worms.

Here are the AB3 award winners.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Zoo Hang Over

Back from the San Diego Zoo, had a great time as always!

Unfortunately the conditions continue to be Springy

The gorilla doesn't like Springy conditions

Hoping that we get a chance to surf over the weekend before next weeks weather comes thru.

Going to make this a short one

Thursday, April 2, 2009

No surf for you!

Well surf but windy AGAIN which amounts to the same thing

Since the today's forecast calls for fugly I am going to the zoo.

It's great to have a world class zoo so close to home. I would go just for the plant collection.

Beats going to Miseryland any time.

Of course any trip to San Diego usually find us going for a side trip

As always if any of these pop up beside the road, one of the beauties of the mat is that it fits nicely in the car trunk, ready for a impromptu go out

photo ripped off from The GNARSHIRE I think, lots of good stuff there

Here is another site to check out - Flying Longboarder The full gun a couple of posts down is worth the trip.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

New mats available

Once again for a limited time!

Some of you may know that I have been working on my own customized mat.

I am happy to report that many years of painsteaking R&D is over and I am happy to offer my mat to the mattifferous public.

This particular model comes in any color you like as long as it's black so I have decide to call the this first of many models the


Pricing is flexible at this time but will run in the 1 to 2 thousand dollar range.
(hey these puppies are petroleum products bub!)

Please send your checks and money orders to 23breaths@gmail.com

Please enjoy the comments from last years mat-a-ganza

23 Breaths said...
the first run of 250 mats has completely sold out! A new run will be available as soon as I get back from the grocery store.

Thank you


Anonymous said...
I got my new mat in the mail today.
Thanks for the quick turn around!

I really like the mat everything about it seems fun. It even has the words GLAD embosed all over it.

I do keep losing air as the twist tie on the back keep coming un done. Can you help me?

23 Breaths said...

I was great to get your check, I mean to meet you. The losing air is all part of the low inflation deal. The mat will ride better trust me! Once you find optimum inflation levels you may want to tie a knot in the bag, I mean mat to keep the inflation just right!

23 Breaths said...
Well I'm back from the store and the next version of mats will be white in color and be in a new model I call "tall kitchen" model. This will be both a big wave and small wave version. As always the mats have the patented "conventional inner/mid chamber" and the whole mat is contructed of .001 mil polyproleane. There will be a slight increase in price as my cost of manufature has risen dramatically!

MR said...
I'll take two!

23 Breaths said...
MR – as soon as your certified check passes thru my labyrinth of Swiss bank accounts and is converted to gold bullion your mat(s) will be in the post!

twinfin said...
Do you take certified monopoly money? I hear it spends the same as cash depending on where you are at..

what other uses would you recommend for this seemingly, too good to be true wonder product?

Will it make my teeth whiter?

23 Breaths said...
twinfin - as long as it is CERTIFIED monopoly money. I had I guy try to buy a mat with phoney monopoly money! The nerve! The mat will indeed make your teeth whiter and make both your FICO and SAT scores go up.

twinfin said...
Thanks for getting mine out so quickly.. Im a bit embarassed to say this but I took it down to the beach this morning and I left it next to the showers for a second...by the time I turned around, a large dirty man resembling Santa Claus had taken it and draped it over his body and run away..what a bummer...he did kida look stylish tho.. Do you think hes on to something?

23 Breaths said...
The new and improved mats are in very high demand! This sort of mat theft should be reported to the authorities! Did you happen to buy the optional replacement insurance with your mat?

Bob said...
My sincere apologies, but I am going to have to cancel my order. Turns out I have an ample supply of your same model mats in my basement. I'll just have to re purpose the existing contents.

On another note, do you know where someone might be able to dispose of 3 cubic yards of hobo pieces?

tres_arboles said...
Screw it, I'm getting my matt at Costco!

David, Seattle

23 Breaths said...
Bob - haven't we talked about this before? Put the hobo down!

3 trees - All the cutting edge surf gear comes from costco! the only draw back being that you have to buy 500,000 at a time...