/*23 Breaths: October 2008*/

Friday, October 31, 2008


So now you know who I am going to vote for on Tuesday.

As for the rest of the election I will vote in line with the financial conservative, social liberal, tree huggeryness that make up my political persona.

I won't go into the details on a surf blog.

So what about you, dear reader?

What I urge you to do is not to take my word for the appropriate way to vote.

Register, educate yourself on the issues and then cast your ballot.

Your thoughts, your preferences, your vote.

If we agree ok,

if not that's ok too.

Now some body surfing from Hawaii

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

My New Tattoo

Mr Cubillos over at Patchies Hideout payed me the great honor of creating his impression of one of Kaser's mat shots.

I can only thank him with this

"Patchie slides right"

It should be acrylic on board but it's just photoshop.

Check out the whole series of bloggers-a-la-patchie at Patchies Hideout

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Post swell Post

As much as I like the mat as a super adaptive surf vehicle,

which it is!,

I may like it just as much for the post surf endorphin rush.

(Endorphins are endogenous opioid polypeptide compounds. They are produced by the pituitary gland and the hypothalamus in vertebrates during strenuous exercise, excitement, and orgasm, and they resemble the opiates in their abilities to produce analgesia and a sense of well-being. Thank you Wiki!)

We have been having a good run of surf.

(A new record for the amount of sea water draining from my sinus' post session!)

But now we are back to the usual stuff and it's still a blast!

Both pictures blatantly borrowed from Kaser's website Daily Bread.

Go there for the goods!

Thursday, October 23, 2008


I spent this morning with a few friends at a remote break that rarely breaks.


(I surfed the same old beach break with all the regulars, semi regulars and some guys from SD that brought a movie guy in the water and a still photographer on the beach)

Surfed the mat at the upper inflation levels since it was steep, barreling and reeling down the beach.

I can't move my arms


Typing this post with my toes and a little nose action.

Kaser should have some pics if you can't wait for the movie.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008


Another day spent frolicking with the unemployed and retired!

Quite a bit of fog this morning which is odd since the weatherman keeps telling us a dry offshore flow will be developing.

But the SW swell picked up a bit and I got a few good ones!

During the winter I sometimes surf with a hood and since I lost my favorite,
(ripped right off my head!)

I took my backup out for a little pre-winter testing.

Warm, but I think it will need to go under the knife.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Sacred Craft

The Sacred Craft show was last weekend.

Kind of a board porn trade show for the resin and foam crowd.

I would go if it was closer but it's not so I didn't.

I was looking at Manny Caro's blog Swallowtail Society which had some pictures of the booth he shared with Brian Hilbers, Kirk Putnam, and Marc Andreini.

Check it out

Mat's at Sacred Craft!

Seems appropriate for a wave craft that gets reshaped a thousand times a session.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Ban the Bag!

Lots of offshore wind this morning.

Which should be a good thing but without any significant swell it is just a waste.

Which brings me to a deviation from the usual mat / matting / matter discussion.

Please use some heavy duty bags to bring your groceries home!

The light weight plastic bags are wrong on about fifty different levels.

I won't go into the details but it's worth it and you should go for it.

There are way too many of these bags flying around.

They are the new urban tumbleweed!

Checking the waves this morning I must have seen hundreds of these things being blown into the ocean.

Don't worry you will forget your canvas bags enough to have plenty of bags for trash etc.

Thank you.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Retro? No Bro!

I am goin' scream if I keep having the same conversation out in the water.

It starts more or less like this.

"Goin' retro with a mat?"


"Goin' really old school with the surfmat!"

The reason I think these comments are odd is that I that today's surfmats are the most progressive of a long line of surf vehicles.

I have to explain that with a mat you can reshape your vehicle as needed to meet the changing shape of the wave.

Gotta love it!

Or to put it another way

"To surf free friction, or fin free, primarily forces the surfer back to the core. It is an act of homage to thousands of years of wave riding. It’s a return to an unpredictable wild side in a sea of conservatism. It is a test of composure in delivering the upper hand to nature. Most of all though it’s just a frontier feeling of being untethered and unguided that brings fun to the fore. And fun IS the key."

Derek Hynd

(BTW that's not me above)

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Greenough Tube

Just a quick post before I'm off.

I have always liked the Greenough tube shot above.

There are some up on the UK EBay signed by George himself!

Link to Ebay

Beats having "Dogs playing poker" up on the wall

PS real name of the piece is "a friend in need"

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

surf different

The mat allows you to surf in many different ways.

Lately the surf has been small so I have been focusing on being aware of the nuances of turning, stalling and gliding.

Turning is accomplished in a variety of methods.

Turning by rolling to the left or right with the mat properly inflated and sufficient speed is a thing of beauty.

In the small peaks I have been surfing lately, I have been playing with turning by dragging an inside hand or fin tip.

That doesn't do much for keeping your forward speed up but if there isn't much should to work with it can be fun.

Dragging leads us to stalling.

Generally I try to keep my legs / fins out of the water to reduce drag and continue my forward momentum.

But if the wave is backing off and you want to keep your position in the curl all manner of leg/fin engagement can but used to slow down the downhill speed the mat is known for.

Any time spent body surfing will pay dividends here.

Once the wave picks up a few quick kicks with your fins can help you on your way.

Glide is perhaps the mats strongest property and can be deceptive in it's simplicity.

As Dale often points out, "the mat is alive" and I would like to add it wants to haul ass!

Faced with any decent stretch of wave face letting the mat alone to do it's thing often results in a blinding flashes of speed.

Amusingly, I would often wonder later what "I did" to make the mat take off.

Eventually, it occurred to me "I" had stopped trying to do anything and the mat took off like a shot.

The point being that if you shooting for personal physical neutrality and letting the mat fly can be an interesting way to spend some time in the water.