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The lastest from the Cosmic Boneyard

...stronger winds in and below canyons...

In was a day not unlike today too fat a tide a combination of swells the occasional crossup a bit offshore
none of the local crew had felt much like shimming into a sandy still damp wetsuit in the wind
cold, windy and shifty  occasionally peaky you spend most of your time dodging the closed out ones whilst keeping in position  over the sandbar
I wanted to go out but the mat was not the call a rare thing but it happens you ride it with ultra low inflation and inch or too of air more efficient swimming interesting body surfing but not today
the good ones came about every 5 minutes an obtuse blending of swells would peak pitch and barrel  over the sandbar and then disappear into the trench that separates the inside from the outside
The kick board had been living in my trunk for long enough that my promise to  sooner or later I'll ride that  came to pass
Great call
Easy to dodge the sets  but enough of a paddling advantage  to help plane into the big ones. Sometimes you come out clean and dry Sometimes you just get crushed the V…

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