/*23 Breaths*/

Friday, January 23, 2015

Gentlemen start your engines...



Submissions
 are now open
for the 4th Annual San Diego Surf Film Festival.

Submission fees are as follows:
Feature length, $25
Shorts, $20

Remember to mark your calenders for this years event
which will take place May 20th-23rd
at the 
Museum of Contemporary Art in La Jolla.

Any additional information can be found on our website:
www.sandiegosurffilmfestival.com

Friday, January 16, 2015

The Winter


such as it is
in these parts
is a strange
creature

Chilly mornings
followed by
warm afternoons
then back to
chilly evenings

A well timed
early morning
swell check
can reward you
with empty
spitting
offshore
tubes
or
epic
high tide
flatness

At least your
wetsuit
drys out
in the afternoon

Your booties
won't be totally dry
until March

Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Cold and Clear

and just about as flat as it gets

(never entirely true and always about to change)



These winter so cal days are why it's necessary to have something else

to do

that doesn't directly revolve around surfing

The garden is a must but it being winter

there is nothing so sad as winter greens with frostbite...

Then there is some sort of daily exercise and meditation

Yoga for instance

and that is a requirement for anyone walking around on the planet

hmm, my editor has just notified me that not all of the 23B readers are

A - walking around

and

B - on this planet

so scratch that last bit

and by the way I would like to welcome our new interplanetary overlords to 23B...

so to summarize

it's cold

it's socal so it's not that cold (76 is the high today (sorry right coasters...))

it's flat but not for long

aliens are coming or are already here ...

Go out and enjoy the day

Saturday, December 20, 2014

now we are talkin...

Perhaps the best gift ever for that surfer on your xmas list


Kirk has all the cool toys

for more details

check it out here

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

The once a year I use my surf racks...

What a pain in the butt...

Often this time of year, my friends and neighbors will ask me...

“Pranaglider, (yes my friends and neighbors call me Pranaglider) I am going to get a Christmas tree this year and I want to know if there is anything I can add to the water at the bottom of the tree to make tree last longer.”

Yes fiends, there is

I take the citrus fruit that ripened and fell off the tree,

I cut the orange or lemon in half and throw the half with bad part away.

I squeeze the juice of the fruit into the water I am going to add to the tree.

I believe that the acid from the juice keeps the microbial growth down, but orange juice is complex enough for there to be additional actions.

Next add some sugar

The tree will drink the sugar and live a little longer.

In my family the kids will put in an aspirin tablet into the water too.

Not sure what that does

something I am sure

So there you have it

I put lemonade in the water under the tree!

This also makes a nice new years morning drink, if you over imbibe...

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Enjoy

So what's up with the blog?


not so much these days

I write a few things now and again

and repost a few old favorites when appropriate

The good news is there is a list right here  ---->

of lots of good stuff

If you scroll down a bit you can get to some more stuff 

sometimes for some internet / blogger magic some of these

blogs don't show the latest image or snippet of story but still...

Good example for today


Great Stuff 

another one of Lloyd's projects

always good

and lots of interesting history to scroll thru

Enjoy

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

top ten X-mas gifts for surfers...

just in time for the holidays 
The top 10 gifts to get a surfer are...

(drum roll please)

Well to begin with you don't need ten new things
(maybe knowing that is the biggest gift in itself)

Surfing is an experience maybe a lifestyle but not a product

(you can't buy a set wave from The Queen)


I suppose there is some stuff required



(I ALWAYS get email from naked body surfers who will argue the point and then send pictures)

but we tend to get more and more and more stuff, 

(especially here in the land of plenty)

some of the stuff never get used, a waste of the materials and energy that went into the manufacturing process and  lots of this stuff ends up in a landfill. 

(I'm not  buying that's a thoughtful gift for your great, great, great, great, great grandchildren who might be cultural anthropologists)

So what do you need?

(do peaks come in a ten pack with a side of off shore winds?)

More importantly during the gift giving season, what do you need that someone can buy you?

Grandma is more likely to pick up the pop out from the offshore sweatshop than the custom board from your local shaper.


(It had all those pretty plastic flowers and it came with matching shirt and trunks dearie)

If grandma is jiggy with it and knows your local shaper (happy birthday wishes go out to Gary Hanel BTW) then good for you and your obviously outstanding genetic lineage. Grandma may have even gotten handplanes for all the grand kids this year. The new hay boards are awesome!


Ok so where does that leave us?

Wax

(wax on wax off)

I had a standing order for surf wax for all gift giving occasions for years

If you see me at the beach, ask me, I have some

(hopefully the humor of a mat rider with a huge stash of wax is not lost on you)

There are some even neat wax scrapers available



Can't use a credit card now that you cut those up!

So where are we now?

more is out

less is in

waves come in sets
But don't come in a store.

The truth is no thing you can buy will make you feel like this

"Family treasures can't come thru the front gate"

So ask for a new beach towel.

That one in the car trunk stinks!

If it's "a magic towel" so much the better...

Monday, December 8, 2014

just right


It was a fine day
Bloomingdales had a sale
all seasonal good 23 percent off
I know this because they sent me an email
several in fact

but I chose to spend some time near the water
Fall is my favorite time of year
but it's also a time of high water
and massive tide swings

Mornings can be so high tide
that any swell is completely shut down
the Pacific ocean looks, well Peacefull...

But by the late afternoon
the tide will be beyond out
revealing several dozen yards of  a flat sandy shelf
with waves breaking out at what appears to be the horizon...

You have to strive for the middle way
like the Goldilocks fable
not too much west in the swell
not too much tide

but just right

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Something you don't see every day


Venkman: Or you can accept the fact that this city is headed for a disaster of biblical proportions.
Mayor: What do you mean, "biblical"?
Ray Stantz: What he means is Old Testament, Mr. Mayor, real wrath-of-God type stuff!
Venkman: Exactly.
Stantz: Fire and brimstone coming down from the sky! Rivers and seas boiling!
Spengler: Forty years of darkness! Earthquakes, volcanoes!
Winston Zeddemore: The dead rising from the grave!
Venkman: Human sacrifice! Dogs and cats, living together! Mass hysteria!
Mayor: Enough, I get the point!

Or as we like to call it, an inch of rain in Southern California...

So as you take a break from building your ark
I have something special for you today,
the nice people at Patagonia put this together.

George Greenough talking about "getting the shot" for his movie

The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun

Some of the footage has never been presented before
and the narrative is as they say "priceless"


Sunday, November 23, 2014

Happy Thanksgiving


Every Thanksgiving and usually Christmas too, my parents drove my brother and I to my grandmothers house in Burbank for the requisite turkey, stuffing and cranberry dinner.

Each and every time it was hollowing offshore.

My older brother and I pleaded to stay home, "It's gonna be epic!".

Every time our pleas fell on the unsympathetic ears of non surfing parents and we went.

Grudgingly.

I might have even thrown a tantrum if I'd known how.

But we went and I wonder how many good waves we missed.