/*23 Breaths*/

Friday, August 14, 2015

ode to an E


i knew it was coming
i've been preparing myself
but it always comes suddenly
unannounced

time

time takes us all

stress plays a big part
so does the oxidation
that defines life

the subattomic bonds
(everything happens at a subatomic level)
that always held things together
were not longer equal
to the forces that want to tear them apart

without warning
it was just gone
not with the sound of a thunder clap
not during a climaxtic bend
at the end of a solo

nothing so grandiose

this morning
as I changed tuning
from open G
back to standard
concert pitch

my high e string broke

Monday, August 10, 2015

Except for the figs

Late summer
the tomatoes are spent
the native sages have grown, flowered and faded
as much as they can
in a drought year
several trees died
nothing did well
except for the figs....

the surf
such as it is
in the summer
has had a few moments
but nothing
that will remain
in memory
for very long
"remember the thunder from down under?"

the crowds, the tourist
have had a field day
infesting the beaches
but no riot at HB this year...

the last few days
a cold snap (upper 70's) for August
always a warm month
I have noticed the change of season
the plants
they don't have calendars
they ARE calendars...
they know and
are turning
completing the circle...

so now the temps will
crank back back up in a few days
but still
soon

the weather will cool
the kids will go back to school
and things will change

back to normal
back to the fall

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Turning

when I was turning 19
I remember thinking
wow my last year as a teenager...
there were things that needed to be done
I have no idea what it was
probably a new board
but now
having entered into
my last of my 50's decade
what is left to do?

Pema Chodron says,
"Could it be that whether we are awake or asleep,
we are simply moving from one dreamlike state to another?"

perhaps

quite possibly true

so this moment
I sita
listening to the birds chirping
the cat snoring
I sit
dreaming...

Thursday, July 23, 2015

The boat weather is gone


replaced with a
micro climate
hovering over
a thin strip of land
between
a desert
and a large
ocean

this morning
low clouds
muffle the
freeway
and the cat's purr
completes
with the early
birds
as the loudest
sound
around

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Summertime



It's like living on a boat
not the "let's have rum drinks while sitting on the fan tale and complain about docking fees"
living on a boat
fantasy
but the real life
everything I own is wet and mouldy
reality

I feel like Opus in Bloom County
a penguin that has a chronic personal moisture issues
but I digress..

the cat
he hates the rain
any kind of moisture really
he hates each individual drop

right now
he has been out doing his morning routine
checking the perimeter for
who knows what
and now his tail is wet
and of course
this is my fault
because
as his staff
I exist only
to do his
bidding
or I get a quick claw
to my mouldy leg

Summertime and the livin' is easy

Monday, July 20, 2015

Well that was different


more rain in two days in July
than in most of the years "rainy season"
for a while
in some sort of
heat stroke / mojito delirium
I thought the east coast and west coast
had been swapped
I ran down to the beach
for some sort of swellular confirmation
but the results were inconclusive...
so we just waited it out
with just netflix and a fan
on the plus side
my lawn got watered
local officials have subsequently
issued a warrant out for hurricane Dolores
for violation of the strict no water ordinances....
as far as vacations go
I've had worse
but I think
I really don't like
South Florida...

Monday, June 29, 2015

'till we couldn't see the sets coming...

It was probably the chronic sunburn
but surfing the glass off
was always like surfing in a bathtub
a salty one 
filled
with dozens of my closest friends...
but for a handful
of days
the wind would quit
the wave faces
would become
sheet glass
and we would all
see how long into the
sunset after glow
we could still see
the sets coming

Friday, May 29, 2015

no rain


Pondering this morning
today being the last Friday in May
taking in the whole May-ness of it

we had three rainy Fridays
or at least the threat of it
this month
almost unheard of
in these parts

it should be nice today

I know it won't rain
because the newspaper
we still get one of those
although I forget why

well the paper came
without it's
flimsy plastic cocoon

those newspaper guys
they know the weather
so no rain

ps I think there's surf too...

Friday, May 22, 2015

Enjoy the weekend

cold wind blows in off the water

a new low moved down the coast

with a chance of rain

for the third week in a row

in May?


at least the tomatoes know what time of year it is

Enjoy the weekend

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

beyond description

to be fair
when I first started surfing
I was young
and inexperienced 
in the ways of the world
and
I was seduced

the sun increased my supply of vitamin D 
by a process known as dermal synthesis
whilst
tanning my hide
and 
bleaching my hair

the salt water
twisted and stretched my young body
in new ways
while it tossed me
like a dog
with a new toy

the surf
demanded that I
give up the illusion
of control
and learn to go
with the flow

late night and early morning
low clouds
a 1 2 3 foot
swell
running from the south west
for the next
100 days...

The first commandment of surfing is
after you paddle out 
I'm going to teach you to swim,
at least in the days before the leash...
by the end 
of which ever summer it was
I was in pretty good shape
and stoked 
beyond 
description