/*23 Breaths: July 2009*/

Friday, July 31, 2009

How many can you find?

Yesterday on the Surfer's Journal facebook page they asked how many readers have a full collection. I do and so I replied and since they asked readers to send in a picture I did that as well.

Sometimes I never look at something until I take it's picture.

Now in my household it a well known fact that after I die my body will be discovered by firemen called to my domicile due to reports of all the unfed rowdy cats and the general funky smell.

I like to collect things

Others might say I'm a pack rat.

Back to todays story.

After enduring many jokes over dinner and looking at the picture more I decided that there is a decent Highlight's magazine "can you find it in the picture" puzzle here.

So if you are playing the home game, open the picture above and try to identify the following objects in the pile.

Surf trophy I won in high school - yes I used to be able to surf standing up (5th place)

The box my UDT's came in, five years ago - I never throw out a neat box

Bucket hats I wear in the water - Patagonia makes the best ones

Tibetan prayer flags - pray for surf!

Surfmat - you were expecting something else?

Fins - part of the collection. Duck feet and UDT's with the drunken monkey mods

Surf wax - standard fathers day present for years, if you see me at the beach ask for some!

Surf movies - VHS, two different locations - 5 Summer Stories, Metaphysical, No Destination and Surfing Hollow Days. I think the DVD's are behind the pile

The last three or four years of Surfers Journals -

Another pile of Journal's - looks like the year they all had black covers

(The rest are in boxes at the bottom of the pile)

Unopened bottle of decent tequila - snake bite is a very real possibility!

Leroy Grannis book - you need good eyes or you need to know the color of the cover

Program for the Rick Griffin exhibit - same stack as above but it's red

The BIG summer issue of Surfer mag - yeah I have all of those too

Two guitars (one's in its case) - worst guitar player in the world. don't ask me to play

Weather radio - back in the day this was Surfline and Adam Wright rolled into one. Still a handy item to have

Surfers Code - never turn your back on the water!

Surf Movie tonight! - lots of old movie posters

Mavericks book - good book, covers big wave riding in general as well as Mavs

Surfing encyclopedia - not enough about mats! lots of other good stuff

Surfers Path - the Greenough Influence issue

Surf sculpture - You look thru a hole and it looks like you are looking out the tube!

Beach towel - I'll end with a easy one!


So how many did you find?

If I get enough requests I'll put together a key to all the objects

I have to say my wife is a really good sport and that the rest of the house doesn't look like this!

The garage is another matter...

BTW let me know what your collections look like

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Good Stuff

Thank you all for the best wishes I received yesterday.

Several of you asked what I received during the traditional post dinner gift giving.

Books and toys

Same as when I was a kid

One thing I am definitely going out to get is more Wendell Berry.

Check this out

The Mad Farmer Liberation Front

by Wendell Berry

Love the quick profit, the annual raise,
vacation with pay. Want more
of everything ready-made. Be afraid
to know your neighbors and to die.

And you will have a window in your head.
Not even your future will be a mystery
any more. Your mind will be punched in a card
and shut away in a little drawer.

When they want you to buy something
they will call you. When they want you
to die for profit they will let you know.
So, friends, every day do something
that won't compute. Love the Lord.
Love the world. Work for nothing.
Take all that you have and be poor.
Love someone who does not deserve it.

Denounce the government and embrace
the flag. Hope to live in that free
republic for which it stands.
Give your approval to all you cannot
understand. Praise ignorance, for what man
has not encountered he has not destroyed.

Ask the questions that have no answers.
Invest in the millenium. Plant sequoias.
Say that your main crop is the forest
that you did not plant,
that you will not live to harvest.

Say that the leaves are harvested
when they have rotted into the mold.
Call that profit. Prophesy such returns.
Put your faith in the two inches of humus
that will build under the trees
every thousand years.

Listen to carrion -- put your ear
close, and hear the faint chattering
of the songs that are to come.
Expect the end of the world. Laugh.
Laughter is immeasurable. Be joyful
though you have considered all the facts.
So long as women do not go cheap
for power, please women more than men.

Ask yourself: Will this satisfy
a woman satisfied to bear a child?
Will this disturb the sleep
of a woman near to giving birth?

Go with your love to the fields.
Lie down in the shade. Rest your head
in her lap. Swear allegiance
to what is nighest your thoughts.

As soon as the generals and the politicos
can predict the motions of your mind,
lose it. Leave it as a sign
to mark the false trail, the way
you didn't go.

Be like the fox
who makes more tracks than necessary,
some in the wrong direction.
Practice resurrection.

"Manifesto: The Mad Farmer Liberation Front" from The Country of Marriage, copyright ® 1973 by Wendell Berry, reprinted by permission of Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc.

Good Stuff

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

considering the alternatives

a serendipitous go out this morning

I was chasing down Kaser, who had allowed me to stash my board in

his van so I could ride my mat and have more fun.

But that was two weeks ago and K1's patience was wearing thin

I kept getting emails with a running total of the "board storage" charges

I knew the end was near when his final email stated

"I'll be down at HQ at first light, I'll stash your board in the bushes"

So I'm there but no Kaser

I end up finding him at a spot I haven't surfed in years

So I spent the morning tube dodging and getting run over by the local surf school.

Not a bad way to spend my birthday

considering the alternatives

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Big surf last weekend!

I missed it

I really missed it

But I knew I would and I had a great time in SD

My son got to meet the creators of one of his favorite animated shows

My wife and I found a GREAT bakery / coffee shop in PL.

Even though I didn't catch up with Andy, Tom and the gang I did get to check out a new surf spot

Super secret spot called "Stay Backs"

I believe that its derivative from an local Indian name.

So anyway no "huge death pits" story from me

I did, however, manage to scrap off the top of one of my toe knuckles.

An using the fins yesterday has made it worse so I will have to resort to stand up surfing for a couple of days.

(no paddle, just, you know, standing up)

Yep that's all I got...

So I hope you all scored and lived to tell and re tell the tale around the camp fire.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Holding my 23 Breaths

Normally, I would never do this

But since my wife and I will be traveling

back and forth to the San Diego Zoo the next few days

I won't be posting as much

But feel free to read some of the old stuff

check the links --->

Surf over to Daily Bread

Next week I'll be back with new tales to tell

But remember to exhale

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

If you were a squirrel

this shot would blow your mind!

On the surf front

It looks like there will be some swell this weekend.

Which is odd since the contest is in town.

I have a feeling that this swell may be a good one.

My mat is ready.

The conditions should be good.

And I will be in San Diego at the Zoo while my son goes nuts at Comic-Con for four days.

I like the Zoo

I love San Diego

But there hasn't been that much swell this summer.

And I will miss RT's new movie BS!

In the meantime, there is some swell in the water now so I'm going to have a look.

Monday, July 20, 2009

Oranges vs Apples at Jeffery's Bay!

Since this week begins the US Open AKA Hurleyville (nice one BettleJuice) I thought some contest footage would be appropriate.

I missed the hype machine spewing all this us vs them BS as this all happened sometime during the 80's when I took a five year hiatus from surfing to help raise our three kids (have I mentioned that before?).

But I have a hard time thinking that either one of these guys was thinking anything other than "Jeffery's with one only one other guy out? I'm on it!"

Of course, I don't know either one so I could be wrong.

In other news, it seems something important for the development of the species happened 40 years ago today.

No, not Sargent Pepper, but that was a good guess!

Saturday, July 18, 2009

picaresque with art show by the shelter gang

Please join the Shelter gang on Saturday, July 18th at 7pm for their second Backyard film for the summer as well as an art show put together by a few of the folks who make up the essence of Shelter.

Picaresque is the newest film from the folks at High seas and features the likes of Harrison Roach, Christian Wach, Scotty Stopnik, Tommy Witt, Matty Chojnacki, Chris Christenson, Mikey DeTemple, Chad Doyle, Rob Kulisek, Alek Parker, Eli, and Bucky Berry.

.. there will be music as well..

7pm -11pm at Shelter- FREE

Surf Shop Shelter Surf Shop is Located in the heart of Retro Row on 4th Street in Long Beach

Shelter Surf Shop

2148 E 4th Street

Long Beach, CA 90814


Click here for all the details

Friday, July 17, 2009

Mats across the world

United StatesMountain View, California

AustraliaBrisbane, Queensland

FranceGien, Centre

PakistanRawalpindi, Punjab

AustraliaLysterfield, Victoria

HungarySzombathely, Vas

United KingdomStockport

New ZealandAuckland

United StatesMerlin, Oregon

United StatesBuena Park, California

United StatesNewport Beach, California

United StatesMission Viejo, California

United StatesOrange, California

United StatesSan Francisco, California

United StatesLa Canada Flintridge, California

JapanToyohashi, Aichi


I have this little software widget that tells me info about who comes to visit 23B.

I'm always amazed at the range of vistors.

I wish I could say thank you in about 50 different languages.

P.S. I can only assume the last one, from country "Unknown" is interplantetary.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Are we back in the mountains yet?

Painting by Kelsey more here.

As nice as the Summer is I am looking forward to the lite offshore winds and semi consistent NW swells that fall usually brings us.

This bright sunshine in the morning and 2 foot swell is getting old.

At least the water is nice!

It's all my fault, really

I recovered the Neu and it's ready for the water.

The next few weeks will be a flurry of activity so the posts may be less consistent

I can't wait to see what RT has been up to, I hope I can make it.

I will be in heading down to San Diego next week to take my son to ComicCon.

I have also lined up a couple of interviews

All that and Lance will no doubt bust things open

or not

Busy busy busy!

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

In HB it's just called "the contest"

I have lived in and around Huntington Beach since 1961.

So I was not surprised when the scaffolding started going up

and the beach south of the pier started looking like

the Disneyland beach adventure.

In HB it's just called "the contest"

Which works out cause the name has changed so many times you

could spend weeks researching all of the names and their

actual significance on the pro rankings.

I was there for the contest after the oil spill in the 60's

The contest where the contestants were forced to wear helmets

and both times there were riots.

It's still a great place to bring the kids

The event is a favorite of both contest organizers, sponsors and city councilmen for the huge tourist draw which is estimated to be 500,000 this year.

Unfortunately, mid summer is not the best time for surf along the famous HB beaches.

You are just as likely to get flatness as an over head walled up south swell better surfed somewhere else.

Picture courtesy of Surfline.com

To get days like this you have to be here in the fall and winter months.

But all that said, the people watching is world class

If the weather is nice and you can find a parking spot it's a nice way to spend the day.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Back to the Races

These days I usually skip the weekend surf

There are enough people out already

I figure it would be rude to add to my wave count

when so many others are just getting started for the week

That and it's super crowded!

So yesterday I had my first surf of the season in my spring suit


A spring suit is about as little a wetsuit as I wear during the summer

I can use the SPF 10000 that neoprene provides

That and it nicely protects me from the wind

This year we had some nasty dips in the water temps to the mid 50's

in July

which, while not unheard of

is still chilly.

I do still trunk it when conditions allow

and I may have to get a pair of the

I had no idea they were such big fans of the blog

Monday, July 13, 2009

Let's make a deal

Today looked like a surf day and my mat should be ready

but it was not to be

on my way to the car I notice the new surface was a little too tacky

So one more day on the fish

As it turns, out the surf was not as spectacular as I had hoped

and I ended up in a state park parking lot

talking with friends, drinking tea and wishing there was more swell

I took out the too fat fish for a couple

then returned to the beach to grab some fins

at least I could get a swim out of the day

Graham has decided that he wanted to trade his Fineline Ant

for his new Josh Hall fish and generously offered to let me ride his board.

Graham's new fish held by shaper Josh Hall

Now I occasionally ride long boards

I have a few good ones in the rafters

but that's where they usually stay

just not my usual go to surf craft

But the sun was out

the water was warm

and Graham always rides good stuff

so why not?

So I really took a close look at the Ant

I don't think you could find one flat surface on the whole board!

It was as beautiful a set of curves as I have ever seen blended together

on any surf craft that wasn't a mat!

The roll off the bottom into the bladed rails

not too thick nor too wide

I included a shot from the Fineline website but trust me pictures don't and can't begin to capture the shape.

Sort of what you would expect from someone who has shaped long boards, hulls, fish and everything else and put all that experience into a long board masterpiece.

I kept thinking how great this board would work at Trestles!

Thankfully the mat should be ready tomorrow or

I would be down at Shelter trying to work out a deal

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Imelda Marcos

Since I was resurfacing my mat I got the fin quiver out to take a quick shot
(Not too many blossoms on the plumeria this year, I need to fertilize)

The UDT's (size Large) have been thinned down by a drunken monkey.
Fits nice and snug with a full booty, normal winter wear.

The Super Extra Large Ducks actually belong to my son who has larger feet than me, if that's possible

The Comic book grn and blu ones (size XL) are spring and fall wear, good fit over a fin sock

The tri color fins (size Lrg) are summer fins worn with no fin socks

The last tri tips are size Medium

Circle shot with a few strays

I liked the Techs (blk and wht fin above) good strap and nice wide foot box but I find the longer blades work better for me.

I did a post HERE that talks about fins

Bronze statue in HB.

This shot still cracks me up so I throw it in anytime I do a post on fins.

Friday, July 10, 2009

At least today is a mountain stage

resurfaced the mat yesterday.

It had needed it for a while but I kept putting it off

If you are unaware of how this works the nylon mat comes with a coating
of a bit of chemistry called Vulkem which provides the same function as wax on a surfboard.

But this wax job lasts six months

maybe more if you don't surf sandy beach breaks

any way it was time and I reapplied the stuff

and now I am waiting for it to dry

it take a couple of days

depending on the weather

So as I sit here waiting for paint to dry, so to speak

I can't think of anything except how much I want or need to get back in the water

on my mat.

But since I can't I have made a list of things to do

Call the California department of EDD to discuss what's up with my claim

Make some more bread
(the last batch was particularly good we used the last of it as garlic bread to go with the spaghetti)

Write something good
(doubtful I know)

"Network" with my "contacts" about an "opportunity"
(call people I don't know about giving me a job that doesn't exist)

Return books to the library
(Due today!)

While I sort through this cornucopia of choices why don't you sample a few links

Ku Yah! - a nice bit of work this morning

Whales might be as much like people as apes are - “If an alien came down anytime prior to about 1.5 million years ago to communicate with the ‘brainiest’ animals on Earth, they would have tripped over our own ancestors and headed straight for the oceans to converse with the dolphins”

At least today is a mountain stage

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Lets do the Stingray shuffle?

Still had some steep south in the water so I went to a beach that would only get a glancing blow from the swell.

Still a little walled but its been awhile since I'd gotten wet.

What was notable about the go out were the number of Stingrays in the water.

I must have startled a least a dozen on my way shufflin out to the outside

I suggest doing the time warp on the way outside.

Really scares the little buggers and the stingrays too!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Is it winter yet?

I haven't posted for a while.

This is either fireworks from the 4th or my camera has been to alpha centauri

Made the Kessel Run in less than twelve parsecs!

Things have been a little hazy

The Tour, holidays, barbecue, fireworks, gardening

And prime examples of summer surf

Which is to say nothing

or not much,

if you are a glass is half full kind of person.

But there still are all sorts of fun things to do.

The online Body Surf magazine / picture fest has a new issue out.

The link above takes you to the main page

Picture above from Ryan Heywood's other blog Smart Casual

Make sure to click on the #3 for the latest issue.

Body surfing is the cleanest, simplest and purest form of surfing and I love it!

Here is a video

Please put the 45 back in it's sleeve when you are done, you know how the dust can ruin the vinyl or you might spill a Tab on it.

The Tour

If it wasn't for the Tour de France

I would go crazy this time of year

This one could be interesting

The Mat

I hear people say they will get a mat to ride on the marginal days. I have be riding my fish on the marginal days and saving my mat for the good days.

The Garden

The summer garden has peaked or is peaking depending on which plant you are looking at

The squirrels have been rubbing their hands with glee waiting for the sun flower seed to ripen.

More later must surf now.

Thursday, July 2, 2009


I hadn't seen this before but found it on a twitter tip "seriously inspirational video" from Ed at Quality Peoples

From the YouTube page.

"The Style Evolution project pays homage to the immense treasure of surf movies over the past 50 years, many of which are sadly becoming rapidly unavailable due to new video formats. This short film is a collage of wipeouts from 19 surf movies from 1963 to 2005."

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Gerr Now - North from New York

The fine folks at Hi Shreadability are back at it with a surf trip / road trip starring Brad Gerlach and Chris Christenson.

Although I don't know the man personally, but Brad Gerlach has always seemed to me to be a normal guy that surfs really well.

As opposed to a lot of the ASP some of whom seem like abnormal guys that surf really well.

If your browser don't start playing the video below

CLICK HERE to go to the Hi Shred website.