/*23 Breaths: February 2012*/

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

10 things to do before next Summer

I know that I tricked you last time with this "ohhh how cool! 10 count em ten things to do, before next summer!!!"

An then spent the whole post talking cancer

Well I'm sitting here bandaged up (again) from another visit to the dermatologist.

Mohs Surgery

Remember that appointment I told you to make with your dermatologist last fall?

Yeah well my appointment wasn't until almost Christmas so we won't quibble.

But you need to go!

I know you are saying, "Prana, dude I check!"

No. No you don't check, at least not very well and not with the skill of a good dermatologist.

Something I didn't even consider worthy of a second look was the trouble maker this time!

The good doctor saw it right off.

So go!

Make matching appointments with your significant other

I'm sorry to be sexist but the chicks dig it

Trust me on these things, I'm old

Make a family appointment and get lunch /dinner afterward and make an event out of it

Do it for me, I need all the readers I can get.

Besides this is serious and you aren't going to read this in the mags
(not even the good ones)

How many waves like this do you want to miss?

My surgery was minor and completely successful.

I do have a headache this morning that would kill a horse and when the bandages come off I'll have a small scar right at my hair line (which in my case is considerably farther north that it used to be)

* For my Southern Hemisphere readers.

I make comments like "summer and winter" based on what I see when I  look out the window. Just give it the old 180 degree spin and you will be right on target! 

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Soup for You!

Soup for dinner last night

Celery, carrots, onions cooked up with some braised beef chunks and some vegetable broth.

Called Grampa Soup around the house because my father-in-law would whip up a batch when the grand kids came over.

Alternatively called Lumpy Stew for his dog Lumpy who liked the soup too.

Unless it had peas.

Lumpy hated peas and would sift them out of any food that contained them.

* I'm not entirely sure why the last two pictures came out turned 90 degrees. Maybe its a Blogger thing. Maybe it's a California thing (turning to the left in election years rimshot). I do suggest that you turn your computer monitor to compensate or the soup will spill out all over your shoes. 


On the book front, I came across a book I never knew existed, Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency by Douglas Adams. If that name sounds familiar it's because he wrote The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy.  I  didn't know he had written anything else except Hitchhikers Guide so I'm pretty stoked.

Monday, February 27, 2012

Tyler Warren - the movie

After a weekend spent searching and researching

I found out that Tyler Warren and the Experiments

wasn't a new band

That The Tyler Warren Experiments

was a movie!!!

Who knew?

Here's a clip

It looks like a good one too.


I still think that Tyler Warren and the Experiments

would have been a good band name though

I wonder if he plays guitar

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Back to the Zoo

A trip to the World Famous San Diego Zoo yesterday

The Rhinos looked like then had attended a local frat party

The animals are fantastic but I keep my eye out for the blooming of the Zoo's plant collection.

There is a great deal of eavesdropping as you move through the crowds. All these guys could talk about was the upcoming San Diego Surf Film Festival 

The aloes were in full bloom and the bees were making the most of it.

The great apes were great, hence the name

Saturday, February 25, 2012

locals and a sense of place

"My sun, my sand, my surf, GO HOME!"

I read a lot of stories about
locals and localism

Since the earth is turning, the weather is getting nice our shores and their adjacent parking complexes will again be overrun with lots of folks that you may have never seen before but share in your deep seated love of the ocean, at least for the day.

I consider of myself as a local
of several spots really
but more than just surf spots
as much as
the small strip of coast where
I grew up
and still reside

I like to think of a local as someone who works to develop,
over a period of time,
some personal sense of place of an area

With some knowledge of the history of a place.
A feeling for the local geology
and some feel of how it is moving in geolocial time

In terms of the meeting of land and ocean
how is that interface changing?
Since it is always in flux
always moving
there is quite a bit to take in

Then there is knowledge of the
flora and fauna of a place,
as well as
things like climate.
Are we in a drought this year?
Last year? The last five years?

Explictly important to surfing and surfers
but equally important to fisherman and sailors
What swells reach the coast?
What directions do they come from?
Where are the swells born and what seasons produce which swells?
Oh and how is the wind that time of year?

So a more than a brief and passing knowledge of
the characteristics of a place

not just where the locals park
(although thats good too)

not just a drinking relationship
with the current pack of Alpha males

should characterize
a true local

but that's just me.

I hope the next thing
I read about locals
is that they organized
a local
"Clean Up the Beach" day


from drowning
by paying attention
to some visiting non-locals actions
and by using their "local knowledge"
to identify a dangerous situation
and safely extracted a visitor from harms way.

As to the locals behavior in the water
try to keep in mind
that no one owns the waves
not even the locals
(well maybe the fish, marine mammals, resident crustaceans and sea birds)
and that everyone out
is there
for the same reasons you are.

So share,

When you work to develop
a sense of place
you can appreciate
the beach
the water
and the day
as much as the waves.

* If have been reading 23B for a while you may be saying to yourself  "Self, I think I've read this before!" and yes you may have as it was originally posted on 4/10/2010.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Tyler Warren and the Experiments

 Long story, but since the cat had been using my face as a speed bag for a while I decided that before he started using his claws I should get up and feed that sucker.

Which brings me be in front of the computer this morning, without my glasses and surfing the internet a bit early.

This it how I know something is up with Tyler Warren and the Experiments (which BTW would make a good band name if Mr. Warren's considerable talents run in that direction as well).

Perhaps there is some movie involved as all the stories seem to include a black rectangular box embedded in the text that we have all come to associate with YouTube and Vimeo.

Click anywhere on the internets to find out more.


What I had planned on talking about this morning was the high price of gas and how everyone is going to be riding one of these this summer

Gary Fisher's personal Klunker

But I think I'll save that for another day and just go back to bed.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Paipo mania

So absolutely everyone on Facebook is mad about Paipo's this season.

Tim posted the following clip in the Aquatic Apes group around the time Glenn got a new one for Wegener

These are fun to ride and definitely have some of the speed of mat riding.

In the clip I like the bodysurfer and paipo rider sharing a wave around the one minute mark.

From the YouTube description "Barry MGuigan shot footage on a 1964 trip to Hawaii. Included is footage of Leigh Tingle from Sydney. Tingle's board can be seen in a group shot - notable is the wood hand grip."

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Go Surf

If you are a regular reader here at 23B

(although the phrase "regular" in this usage could be debated for days, but I digress)

you know that for lack of anything else I often sit look outside (unless I am already outside then I just look)

and try to figure out what is going on with our weather.

You see, after hoping and wishing and even pondering for quite a while for something that would, in these parts at least, resemble conditions that we could, with some accuracy call be"Winter"

I just gave up.

There was no hope.

I tried to just focus (as much as someone with extreme astigmatism can) on what a nice Spring it was.

But alas, no sooner had I squared my shoulders and turned to welcome the Spring with an open heart

it rained

not a lot

but enough to throw me into a quandary.

Fortunately I have new running shoes

And as everyone knows, when things get weird


And that

took care

of that!

As for the weather,

The trees are blooming

the grass in the backyard is up to my knees

the pollen count is off the chart

In the dead of winter

spring has come.

I tried to talk to the trees

"a little early to be throwing out buds dude!"

I sat the local bee collective down on their multi legged,

head, thorax and abdomen super structures

and suggested a brief break from their business

But as it turns out there is no arguing with bees.

Birds either for that matter.

So today, at the short end of what will be a long Febuary

It's going to be a nice Spring day

With maybe Fall like off shore winds.

Go Figure  

Go Surf

Go Rock Lobster

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

"It's Tuesday

but it feels like a Monday in some ways", Abraham Lincoln

If you think Mr. Lincoln really said that then this is right up your alley

The other official trailer

I suppose it does explain the point on the Washington Memorial.

It's got prequel written all over it

Presidential Vampire Hunters - The Beginnings

Monday, February 20, 2012

Surfing Ex-Presidents

Not a lot you can do for presidents day and surfing so

here is a pic of the Ex-Presidents, the bank robbing gang of surfers from the movie Point Break

maybe a film clip too

Something different

Many of you may visit Brine Times on a regular basis. I do and if you haven't been there lately you will want to know that Briney has moved his blog to a new address and blog title Modyssey.

Give it a look

Sunday, February 19, 2012

new shoes

My new shoes came in the mail yesterday.

I'm off to sea

how they work

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Just a question

It was a straight forward question Paul asked over at Surfmatters

"Which "Alternative" Surfing Style Do You Feel Closest To?"

I pondered several answers, and since I have my own blog I have the luxury of answering, not in a small box with an impossible to read security question but with a full post.

In my mind, I'm more of a post Cosmic Children of the Sun single fin short boarder.

But really since I'm too young for Vietnam and too old for Desert Storm, my formative years mostly coincided with the Disco craze (I'm still bitter about that by the way) so I can't quite claim the short board mini gun as my own.

So with that in mind my alternative style would be either 

The SUP Bunny Men!


The surfing ponies

Friday, February 17, 2012

Soup weather

Now that our bit of NE wind has slacked off
all the leaves in my yard are uniformly
stacked on one side
the dead of winter can continue
expect temperatures in the low 60's
combined with wind
from various directions

The swells
will also be coming from
various directions
some variation on NW
being the most popular
as it traditional
for this time of year

I'm looking forward
to some soup

I know I used this one just the other day but it's one of my favorites. 
It was my desktop for six months last year. 
I'm not sure of the photographer but it's really a beauty

Like lost children
the waves
and their riders
gather on points
and bends of the

Hoping to meet
a new friend
to pass the time
and share
long forgotten

Thursday, February 16, 2012

No sleep for you!

I was up at midnight
and that seems to be it for the night
a cat nap around 4 then up at 5 with the alarm
(although I hesitate to call it a cat nap considering that the cat is totally
sacked out, and has been for hours)
(quite the snore going too)

So around 3ish I got myself up and did some e shopping
Patagonia is having their end of the season sale
and I figured that even though I'll be sleepy all day
I might as well be fashionably dressed.

I know it makes no sense
but it did at 3am

I must say that anytime I am buying "things" these days
I stop and think "do I really need this new three handed spatula with the flames hand painted on the stainless steel shaft? You know I think I already have three in the drawer that you don't use"

But then I make up some BS excuse about helping the economy and just get whatever it is anyway.
Some twisted mutation of the primal hunter and gather instinct perhaps or maybe I just need more sleep.

In local weather news we got a quarter of an inch of rain yesterday and are forecast to have off shore winds for the next day or two.

Get out there and surf it up!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

All Neil all the time

I slept well last night

thanks for asking

no dreams

Here is some Neil

All Neil all the time

Tuesday, February 14, 2012


Interesting dream last night
I thought I would share

I was out for a run
but it wasn't really a run

I'm going thru some foot hills and cut down an arroyo to get to the water

And then I get to this place

That is obviously Rincon

But it's not Rincon

because it's Malibu

As I look out to sea there is Greenough

but it's not Greenough

because he's still wading out into the surf (with his mat under his arm)

But then it has to be him because someone is bodysurfing with a handplane

but it's not a handplane

It's a copy of Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls that he has shaped and glassed!

(besides he later walks by and says "nothing ventured nothing gained")

All this time I am sitting in the shore break

trying to get my fins on

I not sure I ever did get any waves because the next thing I knew my horse shows up

and wants to go home.

And that was what the surf was like in


Monday, February 13, 2012

So what kind of weather would you like?

Good we have some of that on the way!

Today (and apparently on Wednesday) there is a chance of rain

And by chance I mean the car and this mornings newspaper is already wet.

There is a drying out and possible offshore wind event in the Thursday - Friday window.

And another chance of rain by the weekend.

I may need to mow the car by then.

Oh and swell wise it looks like there is something on Tuesday.

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Good Stuff

Surf and conditions are pretty much what I expected for today

Head high plus, walled and kinda stormy

So instead of a major session of paddling practice

I'm going to sit inside, drink tea and watch this

Ramsnake's slow motion treatment of Greenough surfing in Maui lets you see every nuance of the ride

Good stuff!

Saturday, February 11, 2012

What to do?


Hmm ok so the surf conditions are less than optimal.

What to do on a fine day like today to keep the stoke fires burning?

How about heading down to San Diego and attending

Click on the link for the full details

and you had better hurray

Friday, February 10, 2012

something different

Still working on developing a running habit

My first attempts were, in hindsight

too fast, too far and perhaps too furious

resulting in a sore achilles tendon that took a while to heal itself

but now I'm on an every other day (more or less) running schedule,

continuing my daily lunch time walks,

and yoga in the mornings.

The runs still aren't very long but they are pain free

It kind of reminds me of taking up the surf mat and getting used to swimming with fins.

Sore legs for quite a while

but then that passes

and you are left with

legs that do what you ask without complaint.

(Good legs! Have a cookie!)

I look at it like gardening

If I want tomatoes during the summer

(no I haven't planted any yet this year)
I have to plant and tend tomato plants in the spring

Weather update -

I have decided to quit complaining about the lack of a rainy Winter season and just enjoy a nice long Spring,  just as soon as I made that decision and enjoyed a fine day or two the forecast calls for a change in the weather and more "seasonal temperatures".

Thursday, February 9, 2012

mean while back in the lab

actually out back by the stables

Just so you don't think I have been frittering away my time this winter and not contributing anything to the general mat riding community

I give you

the mat pack horse!

Here is the first batch.  I'll be decanting more as soon as my shipment of horse feathers arrives.

These animals have been bred in the lab especially to carry my mat and fins deep into remote surfing areas.

The whole project was born out of the frustration of finding a decent wet / dry pack to hold all my stuff.

These little buggers are nimble as a minks. live on hay and a splash of water

Caution do not give them Red Bull!

I spent hours watching them crash into the walls like some sort of defective Roomba  vacuum!

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Happy Birthday Sweetie!

Today is my wife's birthday

Once of the nice things about having your own blog

Is you get to say and do pretty much

what ever you want

Including posting movies of goats on the mat blog

Later on I will cook you something nice for dinner

Happy Birthday Sweetie!

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Mean while back in the laboratory...

Paul is working on another new mat shape over at Surfmatters

Everyone is kicking in their two cents

So far my favorite comments have been,

"Are ya gonna put a tail on that kite?"


"Dude, if it looks like an arrow head you need a shaft and some feathers!"

To be fair both of those were my comments, which upon further reflection didn't hold air

as it were

and so I am just lurking on the whole process while better minds sort out the details.


Far from being idle

I have been trying to figure out when it's going to rain today

I'll have the answer


Monday, February 6, 2012

There was a football game?

The plan was simple.

Get everything done on Saturday 

A quick surf on Sunday morning

followed by a big bunch of


(well nothing combined with pizza)

Saturday when off with out a hitch

But when I got to the beach on Sunday ...

I hadn't seen this many cars in the parking lot since the last  fourth of July! 

Oh yeah, HB has a big Super Bowl Sunday marathon

They have done it for years 

but it still catches me by surprise.

Every time

But I found a spot

and even though the lot was packed

the beach was empty.


So far this is the best thing I've found in our haul from the library book sale.  
Written by some guy named Ed Hillary.  
I wonder if he knows anything about the mountains?

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Saturday, February 4, 2012

summers comin

And it's time to start thinking of those things you are going to want to have at hand and dialed in when the conditions are right. (I understand the Patagonia store just got a new shipment or you can order a custom direct from Enjoy).  Nothing finer than being in warm water with nothing but your trunks, fins and your surf craft.

Like these Enjoy Handplanes handmade here in the USA. Made from broken boards that would have otherwise been headed to a land fill. Kind of nice to have a surf craft that already knows it's way around the tube when conditions are critical.

Hurry for the best selection.

 You know how it gets mid summer when everyone and their cousin shows up at the beach

Friday, February 3, 2012

I'm 10 steps from Friday

I uttered those immortal words

as I was about to leave the office Thursday afternoon

Because that's how I see it

works over and all that's left is

the trip home


and some reading before bed

(I live a charmed life)

I'm excited to start the weekend this week

lots goin on.

There's swell in the water

I treat it as rumor until the second or third wave

I personally catch

The locally library is having their quarterly

buck a bag book sale.

woo hoo!

Then Sunday, Sunday, Sunday

there's the Super Bowl

which amazingly enough doesn't have anything to do with bowling

as you would think


there are great commercials


now with the net

I seen most of em

So I'm thinking a nice surf or stroll along the shore.

Who's in?