/*23 Breaths: October 2009*/

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Crypt Kicker Five

Staying home to hand out candy tonight

Perusing the old VHS tapes

I found these two to watch tonight

Abbot & Costello meet Frankenstein


The Wolfman (with Claude Rains)

Can't wait

Friday, October 30, 2009

sort of like moving

It's sort of like moving and waiting for your mail to catch up
with you at your new location

Twice a year the source of SoCal swells change from South to North
or North to South

And in between there's nothin'

Check Adam Wright's SoCal forcast website for details

Fortunately, there are things to do

Like eat tons of Halloween candy

Elsewhere on the net -


Tyler Warren, Joe Curren & Yusuke Hanai >
An Exhibition of Paintings, Prints and Photographs from California & Japan!

Saturday, October 31, 2009 > 6-10 p.m.
Live Music and Optional Halloween Costume.

Sunday, Nobember 1, 2009 > 3-6 p.m.
With a live performance by the Mattson 2.

Click on the link for more more info

Next week -

10 things you need for winter

and a virtual cornucopia of cool stuff

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Yesterdays surf report -

There was swell and there was wind

but neither was from the right direction

too bad so sad

On the plus side I meet Dale Kobetich who was talking with Kaser.

Dale makes custom water housings for all the best water photographers

and is an outstanding photographer in his own right

amazing stuff!

Next weeks "board from the rafters"
is one of my all time favorites

An eighty's trifin

Elsewhere on the web -

The Surfers Journal has reworked their website

In addition to sneak peeks at the current issue
they are offering additional content (Journal Entries) and video.

As one would expect from the Journal all the content is top drawer.

They do require you to create a user id and collect a bit of info from you.

I am a big fan of the Journal so if they were to ask for my first born,

I'd be all "no problemo dude"

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Whats the best surf car, dude?

In my web log I employ various free utilities to track the comings and goings of the visitors to my site.

One of the more curious bits of info is that a significant number of visitors arrive here after running a Google query like “whats the best surf car, dude?” (To be fair I added the "Dude" part.)

I usually say that since your car and surfing have no connection that the best surf car is one that will get you to the beach. With extra points if it gets you back home again.

In the past I have written that the best transportation options are walking out the back door to the surf, walking a short distance to the surf and riding a bike a slightly longer ways to the surf.

Since so many of you still ponder this question I have decided to address it once again and report my findings.

So what makes the best surf car?

The basic requirements are to transport you and your crew along with several oddly shaped surfing apparatus (apparati?) to the beach and enjoy the sport of Hawaiian royalty.

A lot of cars fit the bill.

So obviously further rumination is required.

Are you a forward thinker perhaps of the tree hugger persuasion? If so hold on it's going to be a bumpy trip but things will turn out ok in the end, I promise.

So after many hours of deep contemplation and no small amount of time consulting with my magic 8 ball I have come to the conclusion that the perfect surf car is...

(drum roll please)

A Hummer!

The thing has to hold at least 10 people and with a roof rack and with a trailer you can bring an unlimited selection of short boards, long boards, SUPs, kayaks, small water craft of unlimited description and other sundry beach good such as grills, chairs, tents, firewood, as well as the generator for the TV, satellite dish, surround sound music system, plus air conditioning, microwaves etc.

No point in leaving all the comforts of your McMansion at home!

Of course feel free to leave that monster idling while you're in the water.
That way after you have enjoyed the surf you can hop into your toasty or air conditioned car without have to wait any time at all!

Now for (all, some, many, a few) of you from my readership who are at this point pounding the keyboard and shouting “Why Prana, Why?” let me explain.

There is no hope.

Our consumer culture is ruining the planet.

Our elected leaders are idiots.

They can't even agree that all our fellow citizens deserve basic medical care.

They will never act in favor of the planet if it in anyway conflicts with the profits of their employers.

If you think the citizens employ elected officials you aren't paying close enough attention.

I have come to the conclusion that the best way to move forward is to fast forward the conspicuous consumption process.

Simply put, that means use up all the remaining oil and petrochemical products.

The faster the better.

Hummers for everyone!

The various markets based on petrochemicals will collapse and a new chapter can begin.

After the petrochemical Apocalypse, I promise to organize an un-sponsored surf event which will feature all nude body surfing with a specially heat for anyone who remembered to save their wooden hand plane!

Stewart photo by Eric Aeder

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

The happy accidental experiment

To continue the "from the rafters" series I present my "Fish"
Shaped in the summer of 73 by John Silver

The photo stretches the outline it's really pretty stubbie.
The blunt nose fish was popular at the time.

Flat deck, not much nose rocker and just a little in the tail

Thick with the foam carried out to the rails

How many fins does your twin fin have?

OK here's the story.

John was shaping the board for free, I just had to pay for the blank
and glassing.

I was broke (some things never change) and couldn't afford the cost
of the fins so I told him to just put a box in it and I'll figure it out later.

I played with a couple of different fins but I liked this one
the best.

I wedged a dowel behind the box and siliconed everything in place.

The board still surfs very "fish like".

This arrangement actually works better backside and didn't
track like a lot of the twins of the era.

The shortness also introduced me to the no paddle late takeoff.

I'm still a big fan after all these years.

I really fun board, I took it to Bali in 74.

All in all a happy accidental experiment!

Monday, October 26, 2009

Monday Surf Report

The fog clears
to reveal
high tide

perfect 1 t0 5

inch waves at the river

no one out

I so wanted to surf this morning

Saturday, October 24, 2009

A rare Saturday post

I hope you enjoy it

An fine Autumn leaf from this mornings walk

When other plants bow to the frost
chrysanthemums alone show their beauty
this is the nature of things
there's no changing the seasons
I sprinkle their pedals in homemade wine
at sunset I sit down with farmers
under thatched eaves all of us drunk
life is about more than plenty

Poem from Wei Ying-wu written in the fall of 780 at Shanfu Temple.

From In Such Hard Times translated by Red Pine.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Finally a Friday

If you don't work

does it matter

If it's Friday?


Not sure why Blogger,
in it's infinite wisdom,
uploaded the files I asked for
three times

but Big G asked for a Friday Haiku
so those are the three lines

Go ahead count the syllables

Back to what I laughingly like to call reality
for a moment

Next weeks "board from the rafters"

or "bored from the rafters" if you'd like

is my 73 fish

Took this one to Bali in the summer of 74

good board

and of course there is a surprise

but you'll have to wait until next week to find out

Same bat time same bat channel

PS Good swell today but a little walled

Thursday, October 22, 2009

The apples are here!

Not really talking about the new computers from Apple

Although they are nice

But real apples like this one

I have admittedly been on a food kick lately

But the truth of the matter is I just write.

If I'm surfing I write about surfing

If I'm working in the garden I might post on compost

I'm always eating so that is always in the mix

It all fun and I love it when you play along with the home game

So before I forget, the apple above is called an Ambrosia.

They are coming into season and I look forward to them every year.

They are the best and if you are inclined you can read about them here

On the surf front, I have been out of the water for a few days

and I understand it has been epic!

Of course! It's always good when I'm not there.

So tomorrow I will, hopefully, get back to it the core of it.

(sorry had to throw in an apple joke)

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Save the Manatee!

OK, I sort of promised that I wouldn't post anymore

"what I see in the morning croissants" pictures

for a while


This is too good

Dead ringer, don't ya think?

Go ahead ask your kids

Stop by the Save the Manatee Organization

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Timultuous Tuesday

Today exercise in bloggery is unfortunately not a good one.

(It also doesn't bode well when that's my first sentence)

I'm going to tout a few sites I like and we'll call it a day.

I going in for a procedure tomorrow and I can't eat all day.

This shouldn't be a problem but you are guaranteed to wake up

hungrier than you have ever been in your life!

So on with the show

Lost Stolen or Ripped Off is a blog that may be best described as a

photo montage of surfing life

If your surfing life consists of boards, cars and girls.

Hundreds of photos from all over

Check it out

(some of the girls are only wearing a smile

so if you are surfing from the office be advised)

Next up is a new blog by long time blogger Brown Fish

Mr. Fish has turned his attention and considerable shaping skills to handplanes.

Handplane Goodness reflects his growing obsession with and the construction of


Hopefully he will inspire more folks to take a break from riding the mass

produced tri fin that's "just-like-the-one-Kelly-rides" and self produce something

for themselves.

I think it makes it a little more interesting that's all.

Great site, check it out

(In the spirit of full disclosure, my hand plane is a bright yellow piece of injection molded plastic that my son won in a raffle. But then I'm not allowed near saws, power construction tools, chisels or anything sharp so the plastic thingy is working OK. )

I am thinking of writing a piece about the role of Mana in surf craft but that's for later.

PS One more thing, heavy sedation is in the forecast for tomorrow so either there won't be a post or it will be intelligible, which could be a pleasant break from my usual drivel.

Monday, October 19, 2009

This week's "Board from the Rafters"

Dims 7'1" 15x20x14 wide point forward of center single fin

Getting rinsed off during last weeks torrential downpour

"I'm ready for my close-up Mr. DeMille"

Yet another shot that distorts the length of the board

But it does give you an idea of the outline. Nice tail.

Rails are soft through the middle and get a little harder in the tail

Yeah I know the lawn needs work, but then, so do I.

Glassed in fin drilled for a connection to the leg rope

Ole did a lot of boards this shade of light blue. I really like it.

From the shed of Bob "Ole" Olsen

No disrespect to Mr. Olsen. The shop, as I remember it in Sunset Beach Ca.was little more than a tool shed. If you saw something you liked you had to take it outside to check it out. His shop is where the current Bruce Jones shop is today. When I was thirteen I thought he was ancient. I did the math and he was forty! Nice article on the Maui Time website.

Seventy Nine and still mowin' foam in Maui.

Smart man!

Bought this one from the neighbor kids for 5 bucks, another 10 got the neon yellow short john wetsuit.

I love garage sales!

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Somebody keep an eye on Rick

From the NOAA site


Class Five storms are the top end of the classification.

Either Mexico is going to get hit and get a lot of rain or if the storm goes left into the Pacific Ocean SoCal might get some surf.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Searching For Michael Peterson at Shelter

Ripped directly from the pages of Megatrough

Searching For Michael Peterson at Shelter Surf Shop 10/17


This Coming SATURDAY October 17th from 7pm to 11pm at Shelter Surf Shop

Searching For Michael Peterson with Live musical performance by Beau Young and Seth Petterson

Michael Peterson ruled the surf scene throughout the early to mid-1970s with his savage, groundbreaking surfing. An undiagnosed schizophrenic, Michael couldn’t handle the fame his surfing powers attracted, and he retreated into a world of hard drugs, fast cars and shadows. He eventually hit rock bottom after a car chase, which took 35 police cars to stop him.

Adding a special touch to the U.S. tour is Australian singer/songwriter Beau Young (2 x world champion surfer) in concert. Beau retired from professional surfing in 2003 to focus on a fulltime career in music. He has gone on to record 2 albums and performed at many of Australia’s most respected music festivals and toured through Japan and Europe. Beau has an obvious affinity with the film and story of Michael Peterson, being the son of one of the world’s most recognized and famous surfers (and Peterson’s predecessor), Nat Young. This will be Beau’s first official U.S. tour.

Admission is Free

Refreshments will served.

Lolas Mexican Quisine will be grilling up tacos on the cheap from 7-9

Emmy Kirkley is baking up a storm and will be bringing scratched baked goodies for sale in the back

Matunas is giving away wax while it lasts!

Shelter Surf Shop

2148 E 4th St

Long Beach, CA 90814

for more info, call 562-342-4401

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Plumeria's like the rain

Still sort of bummed that I didn't make the Sacred Craft Expo
honoring Dick Brewer

Nothing in the morning croissants today

I had a really good post in mind

But then I totally forgot what I was going to say

so we'll muster on anyway

It's been raining since around midnight

which is great for the drought conditions

but terrible if you live on a hillside below the burn areas

or like to surf the river mouths

Surf conditions should recover over the next few days

and there continues to be more tropical energy spinning up

I'm always hopeful.

I had a good time posting shots of my old board

And since I have a few old boards

I thought I would make it a semi regular event

My obligatory bad fin shot
The tail isn't as thick as it looks, it's the angle and the S deck.

This board is from the period between S decks and RB inspired down railed guns.

Getting cleaned up for it's close ups

The full post will be later in the week after I clean up the board and get some better shots.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

waiting on the drops

Waiting for the rain to start,
making breakfast for the boys

Making croissant's for breakfast when suddenly they started channeling miscellaneous monsters

I hate it when pastries do that!

But a rigger for Nessie, don't you think?!

Rest assured that I bit it's head off and went on about my day.

Quiver asked for another shot of the fin in the Brewer

So here we go

The base is 5.75 and the depth is 7.5 inches

I believe the measurement for fin placement was "a base and a quarter".

You put the fin on the end of the tail and added a quarter of an inch and that's where the trailing edge of the fin should be.

At least that's the story I heard.

If I had any sense I would have gone to the Sacred Craft Expo.

I was looking at Steve and Cher's photos and it looked like a good time.

Shaper update

Joe Blair, who shaped my "Brewer"

is making surfboards in Solana Beach and can be reached thru his web site JBlairsurf

Monday, October 12, 2009

A quarter of an inch!!

Yes Southern California may get a quarter of an inch of rain in the coming days

Unfortunately, that much rain may cause mudslides in and below the recent burn areas

A sudden reminder that we don't live in paradise but in a coastal strip on the edge of a desert.

If you live below any of the recent wild fires (down hill anywhere really) keep an eye on the weather and listen to the state and local agencies.

In more pleasant news,

Adam Wright's surf forecast blog Southern California Surf Forecast is one of the OC Weekly's

"Best of the OC".

Speaking of surf forecasts

The combination of local winds and storm run off doesn't usually produce epic conditions.

(Maybe some wind swell)

Run off from the first storms of the season are usually the worst.

Check the Surfrider Foundation water quality pages for more information

Everything is always changing

Thursday, October 8, 2009

True Brew

I won't be going to the Sacred Craft Expo this weekend in Del Mar.


But since it's honoring Dick Brewer I thought I would dig out my Brewer for a little quiver post.

The "Brewer Fins" were designed to be thicker so a layer of wood was laminated on each side.
I also think it was faster to build up the panel, it floated (somewhat) and it looked cool!
Cut laps, tints and pin lines, from back in the good old days!

I always liked the pin tail with wings!
The tight corners made the wings tough to shape, glass and sand.
The surf leash demolished what material was left and this board
needs fill work on both sides to repair the damage.

Classic beak nose with plenty of foam.
Rocker? Don't need no stinking rocker!

Bad photo angle makes the board look nine feet long.
And I should have cleaned it up first
And my lawn looks like crap!
That little decal up from the leash plug says "Shaped by Joe Blair"

6'7" - 14 nose - 19 wide - 13 tail with the wide point one inch up from the center 3.25 thick

These were classic dimensions at the time, and since Brewer shaped a lot of the Clark blank plugs everyone shaped similar dimensions.

A friend brought this T-shirt back from the islands for me.

"The finest hand crafted precision surfboards in the world"

So if you are fortunate enough to make it to the expo, take a good look around.

His list of innovations is too numerous to mention and the list of shapers who followed in his footsteps is longer still.

In the sixties and seventies, Brewer was "THE MAN" to get a board from when you hit the islands.

For a lot of people he still is.

Check out this shot at a recent contest in honor of Eddie Aikau
When it's big in the islands, people are still going for their Brewer's.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

FTC Announcement

The FTC has announced that bloggers must disclose their relationship with advertisers and if they have received free products or have been paid in any way for their endorsements.


Big Time

So in the spirit of full disclosure

I-had-no-idea it worked that way!

First off, if I did, I would blog in an industry that had a little more cash to spread around.

Second, if you discount the photos I rip off from Daily Bread , I'm getting nothin!

Such a bummer!

Quick, someone, fling me some product and an envelope of cash!

But alas, it seems that instead of finding neither fame and fortune as a lowly copy writer or finding a hot sweaty wad of money as a product pimp, I am destined to die destitute and unknown.


if you suddenly see me on a soap box singing the praises of the Intex line of inflatable mats you can be pretty sure I've sold out.

(Full disclosure, I have a red/blu intex mat in my trunk, which I bought at full retail)

But on the bright side I'll probably give you a ride in my limo!

PS - Since I basically love all the major wetsuit brands, you can still send me one it would all be good!

And I wouldn't freeze to death this winter!

Monday, October 5, 2009

Until next time

Still quite a bit of swell this morning,

really mid morning by the time I got to it.

But in typical yin yang fashion

there was quite a bit of side shore wind to go with it.

But the wind kept the crowd down,

an I got a couple of fun ones before heading in.

Short post this morning and this

(not unlike the swell come to think of it)

may be the only post for this week.

I try to post on a daily basis

but this week I don't see it happening.

Until next time

Friday, October 2, 2009

Beat Poetry Friday - Lew Welsh

Lew Welsh was a contemporary of the "beat poets" of the 50's and early 60's

Which is another way of saying he shared a house with Gary Snyder and Philip Whalen while attending Reed College.

Along with Snyder, Whalen and other characters of the time he appeared in Jack Kerouac's novels. In Kerouac's Big Sur he was the inspiration for the character Dave Wain.

After college and attempting to make his living as a poet. (Which sadly is about as likely as making your living as a poet today.) He moved back east and worked in advertising.

There is some dispute, but he may have been the one who came up with the slogan "Raid kills bugs dead".

So after a time he left advertising and moved back west to concentrate on his writing once again.

But I don't think he ever got his due.

Here is one of my favorites

I Saw Myself

I saw myself
a ring of bone
in the clear stream
of all of it

and vowed
always to be open to it
that all of it
might flow through

and then heard
"ring of bone" where
ring is what a

bell does

PS - I got the best wave of the last 2-3 months yesterday!