/*23 Breaths: May 2010*/

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Helping fuel the troops

Another garden shot today,
I'm not sure why growing edibles is so satisfying for me.

Is it the same part of me that likes the mat because I can reshape it as I go along?
(Master of my own domain for you Seinfeld fans)

Or something more primal,
that I will have some stores of food to eat later

Either way
These apples will find their way into pies etc
and help fuel the troops for another go out during the summer.

Not as much wind this morning, warmer too
Are we heading away from the spring winds
that can ruin a morning go out
and into the calm air of summer?

Only time will tell.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Busy as a bee

A couple of shots from the garden

Enjoy the long weekend, looks like warm weather and some surf in SoCal.
If the wind will play along it could be fun.
If not, then there's always barbecue!

Paul Gross has added a new mat to the Four Gear Flyer Line.  The Tracker Roundtail sits between the Fatty and the Standard and it's on sale! Check it out here

Thursday, May 27, 2010


I just spent the morning cussing at Blogger and adding or re-adding links to the Friendly Blogs section.
I visit blogs using the "I like these blogs maybe you'll like them too" section everyone seems to have on their site. Since I have two blogs, and obviously just wasn't paying close enough attention the list here at 23B was woefully in need of update, correction and repair.
I'm sure many of the links I added this morning were there at some point.
Sorry to so many of you who might have been omitted these many months.

That I need an editor in the worst way is not news to you if you read my posts.
It seems I need a site manager as well

So I am deputizing the lot of you to help out with this.
If everyone would raise a hand and repeat after me
(we are waiting because I see some of you don't have your hands up)
ok now
"I promise to take the time to tell Bruce that the links are missing or the post is mangled in some way"

Thank you and I would like to apologize for all of you who did that in the office .

So take a look around and let me know what I missed!

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Everyone cross their fingers

After 30 plus days of crude oil seeping from a hole in the ocean floor
I can't believe I'm rooting for something called "Top Kill"

The process of forcing mud into the hole has a 60-70 percent chance of being successful
but given BP's past assessments, we'll just have to see.

Even if the oil is stopped today, the effect on the ecosystems in Gulf will last for a long long time.

The shirt is available from a online store called, appropriately enough, Despair.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

ban single-use plastic grocery bags


I'm getting behind a bill in the California Assembly to ban single-use plastic grocery bags. A ban on plastic bags is one of the biggest single cuts we can make to the plastic pollution that's filling the ocean and marring our beaches. Approximately 1,000 miles off our coast is a swirling mass, twice the size of Texas, full of plastic bags and other artificial debris. California must lead the way in cleaning up this mess by cutting plastic pollution.

We've got until June 4 to pass this ban on plastic grocery bags out of the California Assembly. But the bill is under attack by bag manufacturers and others. Join me in taking urgent action, calling on our state assemblymembers to pass this ban!

Check out this page at the Environment California Web site


Monday, May 24, 2010

The Sea was Angry my Friends

angry like an old man sending back soup at a diner ...

But AB3 did take place

As I predicted there was still a showing of core craftsmen, despite the rather breezy conditions.

Jason took a  lot of pics so zip over there if you are looking for them.

For a smaller event there were still a representative sample of the state of the art in surf design.

One fin, twin fins, three fins (all on one side of the board so it was ok), quads and bonzers

All said it was NOT a trip to Jack's!

For the resin and glass stand-up crowd Steve Pendarvis is still the only one who takes flex seriously.

He brought down a bit of everything from the super fun "rubber ducky" to fish, single fins and quad guns.

If I wanted a new board I'd go talk to Pendo.

But since he rides a mat too, it may be unfair to compare him to the rest of the crowd.

For me it was Jon's self made movie rig that stole the show

There weren't too many takers in the "lets paddle out an change a few" department.

Although there were these mysto cloud break peaks breaking way out there

It occurs to me that while we surfers were bummed about the wind, sailors have equal distaste for the windless conditions we consider optimum.

Which would mean that a surfer/sailor would always be happy with the wind conditions...

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Sprinkles belong on Cupcakes

Looks like there may be some rain / wind along with the swell for tomorrows AB3

Bring it

It a core event so I don't think there will be much change in attendance

Besides barbecue tastes better in the rain

Friday, May 21, 2010

in transit


So a new swell is headed our way
but first we wait
the storm that spawned these wave is already gone
the storms energy is in transit
no deposit no return
sort of like light from some distant start that died out 
a millennia ago 
it's light still headed our way

so we sit and ride the waves of our breath

up the incoming tide of the inhale

a pause at the top

out the outgoing tide of the exhale

waiting for the next swell
in transit

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Tiny Purple Fishes

run laughing thru my fingers...


it's just the anti - histamines I'm taking for my allergies

That said I've always been a Cream fan

Mark Thompson has updated his Krypt Surf website with a surfmat page. No word on the release of the MT5 but I would think it will be soon.

I'm sure I'm not the only one but after the AB3 at Oceanside I'm going to go have a peek at the new Surfy Surfy Surf Shoppe

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

AB3 @ O-Side

Wow has it been a year already?
(A couple of ne'er-do-wells from last years event)
(the one on the left is trying to figure out how the fin attaches to the mat)

Looking forward to going and checking out all the cool craft!

The forecasts even promise a combo swell and perfect conditions

(I'm lying about the conditions part, but things should be ok in the morning)

Jason seems to have all the particulars at DB so I'm not going to type it all in here 

Now if I could just get rid of this cold

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

HB Pier, Chuck Dent, Surf Contests and S decks

Seeing the pic of the Huntington pier from yesterday's post reminds me of the Chuck Dent contest rant from Five Summer Stories

Personally I don't have a problem with surf contests

I think they are as valid, as say, competitive picnicking,

but maybe thats just me.

Here is a clip from 5SS you may not have seen for a while

Great "fake news" voice over on this, 35 years before the Daily Show

Check out the S deck on the board that Mike Purpus is riding!

Nice cutback too

Good night and have a pleasant tomorrow

Monday, May 17, 2010

Welcome to June, it's raining

Photo above, a 60's / 70's  HB Pier shot, borrowed from 4Q Conditioning. Photographer unknown.

So that was Spring

Beautiful wasn't it?

Now it's early Summer

I can tell its Summer because at the crack of dawn

it's foggy, there's south wind and it looks like it's raining outside.

Shouldn't really call it rain, although technically it is

Really the result of such a heavy marine layer that it sprinkles.

This "Grey May / June Gloom" condition is not unusual around SoCal this time of year

when will it end is the big question.

On the plus side it is usually accompanied by the beginning of the south swells for the season.

Although sadly it's usually blown out.

Not much to do  but wait it out

or maybe go to breakfast
Pete, Tom, Bruce and Ken Dog photo by Bagjuan

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Help Joseph Diliberti!

Above is the self made home of Joseph Diliberti.
Vietnam Vet, US Marine and currently practicing Rasta man.

The county cleared less than half an acre of native chaparral from his property in San Diego, without his consent, and now are threating to sell his property due to a weed abatement lien.

The total charge for this "service" is almost 60,000 dollars!

Maybe they should just leave this man alone!

Read more here at the California Chaparral Institute or

Here at SignOn San Diego

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Sun Rise Sun Set

Run rise at 5:52 am

Sun Set at 7:47

Friday, May 14, 2010

Livin' la Vida Loca

Interesting day yesterday

Lots of hits on the blog!

Lots of new people interested in riding the mat

I'm always super stoked about that

And according to my emails I won the International Lotto



All I need to do is send them 500 dollars for routine handling fees etc.

Everyone have a nice weekend there is a wide spread rumor about some south swell this weekend!

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Got Bits at the Journal

I got some ink (bits?) today over on the Surfers Journal site , check the "Journal Entries" section.

I'm super stoked that they ran the photo that Jason Hall of Daily Bread shot.

It shows you can do more than ride a mat straight to the beach.

Jason's been out there surfing and shooting for years and many of us use his blog as a surf check of the local area as well as a source of great links.

So check out the Journal website and stop by Jason's site as well!

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Everything you ever wanted to know about surf mats

Dale sent me the following vintage Greenough pic the other day

This was from his 1979 mat survey article titled "Everything you ever wanted to know about surf mats"

I haven't read the article in a long time but as I recalled he reviewed the mats that were commercially available at the time.
 Photo from Resin Tint

One of the things I clearly remember of the piece was a picture of a pile of mats.
There must have been a dozen.

Of course, now a days, just like the rest of us, Mr. Greenough has his choice of a variety of mats

One wonders about the breath and depth of his mat quiver.

I would imagine he has one of everything and a few extra to mess with.
Being George

By the way, it is a "quiver of mats"?
What is the correct name for a group / collection?

There is a pod of whales
a nest of vipers
a murder of crows...

Personally I think I prefer
a blowup of mats

And don't get me started about fins

Monday, May 10, 2010

Spring Fever - More Cow Bell?

I think it's safe to say that Spring in here.
The last few days have been so nice
I have a huge case of Spring Fever going and
a decent south swell is running too!

Today and tomorrow look to be a tad windy
but after that its nothing but blue sky in the 10 day forecast.

What about Summer?
Summer can be an elusive creature.
We still need to get by the twin threats of May and June,
the two months in SoCal when morning coastal fog may last all day
The temps can be a toasty 70 or 80 degrees 5 miles inland
but a chilly, drizzle at the beach with south winds to funk the surf.

We will just have to wait to see what happens

The local flowers are off to an epic start
thanks to the one day of rain we received each week in April
The back yard garden is off to a great start too!

I had one MT5 picture left
you already saw it up at the top of the post.
If anyone out has any photos they want to contribute to 23B
send them along

One last thing,
the Anything but Three gathering
got moved back a bit
it's rumored to be following weekend  Sunday May 23rd in Oceanside
I'll get the details and post it up during the week
More details by TFAD here

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Happy Birthday Jamie

A big shout out to birthday boy Jamie McClellan!

Jamie is a great mat rider and occasional sub aquatic sea creature.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Mats can't hold an edge without fins

From a note Dale sent over the other day ...

"it never fails to both amuse and frustrate when
I hear experienced surfers talk about how mats can't hold an edge,
because they don't have fin(s) and hard sharp rails... *sigh*

Mark Thomson and George Greenough both carving Lennox Head
NSW................... over 40 years apart."

I get that same question all the time out in the water,

I wish I carried these pictures out in the line up,

but that might be a little weird.

I think stand up, hard board surfers are just stuck in a mind set of the board is just how it is (hard rails, fins etc) and they can do anything about it after the board is shaped and glassed.

Mat riders get to reshape, change the volume distribution and add or take away fins, all while surfing the wave.

Section to section and wave to wave.

Imagine if a surfboard could do that!

Take off with a SUP that with a little hand pressure turns into a quad for a few quick turns then morphs into a pocket rocket for the outside tube section after that it changes into a long board for a flat section, maybe a nose ride then changes into a body board for the gnarly on shore finish!

oh and then folds up into a roll for the walk back up the beach or the hike back to the car.

If your surfboard could do all that people would be going nuts!

Mats do all that and more but people don't seem to get it.

Monday, May 3, 2010

A tube riding lesson

First rip your bottom turn off real hard

Line it up and drop your arm……you know what comes next

Thread the needle

And get shot out of the cannon

And that’s how you go thru the time tunnel!

Thanks to Mark, Dale and Warren for the pictures and commentary.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Spill Baby Spill

How are we able to pump oil from deep under the ocean but we can't seem to collect sunlight for energy?

Below is an email I got from the Greenpeace organization,

Check out their message and their Spill Baby Spill sticker

I can't wait to see the pictures after someone slaps one of these on Palin's limo!

We’ve come up with this powerful sticker to make sure that everyone is reminded why offshore drilling cannot be a part of our energy future - for our oceans, for our environment and for our climate. We’re offering these stickers to our supporters for a donation of $1 to cover the cost of printing and postage - display them widely and make sure that this disaster is remembered long after the cameras leave.

As the first wildlife victims are already being discovered in the Gulf, we are determined to make sure that this disaster serves to show President Obama that he must act now to permanently re-enact the moratorium on offshore drillingand that together with the Congress they must move to replace dirty and dangerous fuels with clean energy

Saturday, May 1, 2010

The Mean Old Nasty Wedge!

Today being May 1st, the official 10 o'clock Wedge black ball went into effect.

The handful of spongers were replaced by a handful of body surfers.

Curiously none of the body surfers just left their boards on the beach to go back out.

They just ambled down to cylinders to skim.

It wasn't a great Wedge day (not enough south swell)

and despite the wind is was, actually it is a nice day in SoCal.

Why not turn off the computer and go outside?