/*23 Breaths: September 2008*/

Friday, September 26, 2008

Friday indeed!

I just wanted to say "thank you" to all of you who have stopped by the site to read and contribute to the discussion on mat inflation!

Since this is a key component to the "magic of the mat" I am always interested in sharing in the experiences of others.

I encourage everyone to try different levels of inflation under different conditions to see the wonderful effects passing a little gas can have.

I also wanted to note that the event at Shelter Surf Shop in Long Beach is this weekend.


Enjoy the weekend!

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Everybody Limbo!

As I mentioned in a previous post I have been experimenting with low inflation.

I have had very positive results but I figured that there had to be some point where it didn't help to let out any more air.

The Limbo question, "How low can you go?".

So far,

I can definitely say,

without a shadow of doubt,

that it depends.

At very low inflation, the mat is still flying, skims well over flat spots and handles well

but

I am having trouble getting it to hold in on the steeper sections.

What I think what is happening is that at very low inflation that there isn't enough air to "build" a sufficient inside rail and I'm sliding out of the the pocket and down the face.

Fortunately, a breath or two and the mat holds in on the steeps and flys over the flats!

Let me know if this works for you as well!

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

new mat blog

You should go check it out!

surfmatters

a new mat blog on the net from our friends in NZ.

This one will be open to various content authors.

I signed up but since I have two blogs of my own to neglect,

I think my contribution will be small.

So go take a look and contribute.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Autumn Equinox

The Autumn Equinox is today and I am looking ahead to what I hope with be a good wave filled Fall.

The days have been cloudy in the morning with side shore wind and just when I make plans for a hearty soup for dinner the sun breaks thru and roasts me for the rest of the afternoon.

Here is a photo from earlier in the year.

On a day I decided not to go out as it "wasn't good enough"



Obviously I have wave judgement issues!

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Give me Shelter



Graham is doing another film, art show, books, band and refreshments thing

This may be the last one for this summer

Always a good time

A trip down to see the new boards alone is worth the trip!

Be there

Monday, September 15, 2008

Mat rider reply

In my last post I mentioned a story in the latest Surfer's Journal. I thought the wave in the story would be great on a mat and I asked for any mat riders on Oahu to let me know if the mat would be the call.

The reply from Tony Lum gets a post of its own!

(Tony's reply starts below)

YES!!!!!

From Tony Lum of Oʻahu:

"The waves are big, but it's really choppy and the sections close-out too fast for my surf- board. I'm not having much fun, so I go home and grab the surf mat.

As I'm paddling out on the mat, I remember... the less I try to ride the surf mat like a body board, the better off I'll be... I see a big set on the horizon so I slide myself up a little further on the mat. I kick hard as the swell begins to wall-up and pitch-out. Instead of pushing the nose of the surf mat down, like I would on a body board, I grab the two front corners of the mat and "pull" it into the wave. I'M IN!

It's an extremely vertical drop, but the surf mat conforms to the steep face of the wave and I survive the late take-off.
Instinct tells me to dig my legs and fins in for control, but I fight it off. I lay down low to the mat, lift my legs and the FRICKEN THING TAKES OFF!!

I end up going so fast that I blast right by an entire closed- out section. I see a long boarder paddling out, with his eyes and mouth wide open, totally awestruck that I covered so much distance and was rocketing straight toward him.

When I finally kicked out of the wave, I was so far away from my
original take-off spot that I didn't recognize any of the faces of the surfers waiting at this new peak...

I'm learning new things every day. For example, I've discovered that with the surf mat, you can sit further out than the long- boarders and catch swells that they can't even paddle for!"

Tony, Thanks for sharing the story!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

What Fun!

Flipping thru the current Surfer's Journal the other day.

That would be Volume 17 NO. 4 Summer '08 for those of you playing the home game and reaching for the stack...

So I am reading the UnderCurrents section in the back when I get to a piece by Jim Growney describing a day in 1965 when he and some friends shared some large and looong waves at Waikiki.

I won't go into too much details, it's a great read.

But at the end he gives credit to the Paipos they rode and speculated that is the only craft would allow them the long and speedy rides they got that day.

I had two thoughts,

what fun! (check the paipo shots in the article)

Second thought, it would have been unreal on a mat!

PS I get a bunch of regular readers from Hawaii that may be more familiar with the setup on big days.

Please let me know what you think, would a mat be the call?

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Good News / Bad News

Bad News

Kaser has lost his dear little friend "Slingshot"

It seems that just yesterday I saw him holding it underwater waiting for the side wave at the Wedge.

I know we all hope for a happy reunion soon.

If not he will be replaced by a fast food tray.

Good News

I got a late night email from Graham raving about his new Neumatic Contrail.

Graham is new to the mat, but it seems he is a natural.

It might be a good time to hit up the Shelter surf shop for the eminent sale on lovingly used hulls and fishes.

(Just kidding about Graham selling his HUGE personal collection of top drawer surfboards, but the shop is always fully stocked, so check it out)

Monday, September 1, 2008

the art and science of capturing light

I have seen some interesting things on the mat.

Maybe I should say I've had some interesting perspectives from the mat.

So I have been thinking of ways to capture the the "view".

I have been avoiding getting into the whole photography thing because I view it as so complex.

(Photography being the art and science of capturing light you know)

So I was wondering if any of you had any experience with the waterproof digital options out there.

I have been looking at the GoPro Helmet deal.

Since I am preaty busy "flying the mat" so I am thinking of something, maybe helmet mounted.

To make it more interesting, I have a budget of zero, so the cheaper the better.

(Otherwise I would contact any of the high dollar providers of equiptment.)

So let me know if any of you have had any luck / experience in this area.