(maybe knowing that is the biggest gift in itself)
Surfing is an experience maybe a lifestyle but not a product (you can't buy a set wave from The Queen)
I suppose there is some stuff required
(I ALWAYS get email from naked body surfers who will argue the point and then send pictures)
but we tend to get more and more and more stuff,
(especially here in the land of plenty)
some of the stuff never get used, a waste of the materials and energy that went into the manufacturing process and lots of this stuff ends up in a landfill.
(I'm not buying that's a thoughtful gift for your great, great, great, great, great grandchildren who might be cultural anthropologists)
So what do you need?
(do peaks come in a ten pack with a side of off shore winds?)
More importantly during the gift giving season, what do you need that someone can buy you?
Grandma is more likely to pick up the pop out from the offshore sweatshop than the custom board from your local shaper.
(It had all those pretty plastic flowers and it came with matching shirt and trunks dearie)
(If grandma is jiggy with it and knows your local shaper (happy birthday wishes go out to Gary Hanel BTW) then goody for you and your obviously outstanding genetic lineage. Grandma may have even gotten handplanes for all the grand kids this year.)
Ok so where does that leave us?
(wax on wax off)
I had a standing order for surf wax for all gift giving occasions for years
(If you see me at the beach, ask me, I have some)
(hopefully the humor of a mat rider with a huge stash of wax is not lost on you)
80 degrees and sunny
Old man winter
wears shorts, a t-shirt and flip flops...
Humanity is slowly caving under an tidal wave of emails
enticements for buying more
At the Not-Thanksgiving-Any-More, Black-Friday, Cyber-Monday sale
Everything at fire sale prices amazingly similar to
(oh here we go...)
is that you turn off all of your
and step outside
to a time when holiday magic
was just that
instead of a growing debt
to be paid back in monthly installments
after adding an 18 percent change
take a walk
maybe somewhere with trees
but a nice beach will do
try and remember the magic
of those old holidays
presents under the tree
but maybe it was just
a slight pause
began to rush by
Kind of falling down on the job
here at 23B
Your one stop shop
on the internet
and sports ...
First the weather
...MOVING INLAND THROUGH SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA LATE THURSDAY INTO FRIDAY. COASTAL STRATUS SHOULD RETURN FOR WEDNESDAY NIGHT INTO THURSDAY MORNING IN ADVANCE OF THIS LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM. WHILE THE HEAVIER PRECIPITATION MAY REMAIN JUST OFF THE COAST... PRECIPITATION SHOULD GRADUALLY SPREAD INTO THE COASTAL WATERS INLAND TO THE MOUNTAINS LATE THURSDAY THROUGH THURSDAY EVENING. SHOWERS SHOULD DECREASE FRIDAY MORNING AND END FRIDAY AFTERNOON OR EVENING. GENERAL AMOUNTS ARE EXPECTED TO RANGE FROM ONE QUARTER TO ONE HALF INCH INCH NEAR THE COAST TO ONE HALF TO ONE INCH IN THE MOUNTAINS WITH AMOUNTS GREATER TO THE NORTHWEST AND OVER THE COASTAL WATERS AND LESS TO THE SOUTHEAST. SNOW LEVELS WILL LOWER TO AROUND 6000 FEET WITH A FEW INCHES OF SNOWFALL ABOVE 6000 TO 6500 FEET WITH 4 TO 8 INCHES ON THE HIGHEST PEAKS...MAINLY ABOVE 7000 FEET.
and next week there's another storm
rain in the Fall in SoCal
As least the rain and wind won't be messing up any swell...
Those words don't normally go together in a sentence
At least in a description of the weather
but as the current low pressure system moves East
the back side should get us
some off shore flow
and some rain
and snow in the higher elevations
Since I surf
in the vicinity of the local river mouth
(River Mouth is what they call the places in SoCal where treated and untreated sewage is unceremoniously dumped into the ocean "No Dumping Drains to Ocean", yes but it is the official plan to deal with storm run off...)
As I was exiting the water yesterday I was blissfully tired, my body was flooded with endorphins and I was thinking about why more people don’t ride surf mats.
That morning I’d had the same conversation as a hundred times before, “what is that your’re riding? It sure goes fast …” and a couple of kids even recognized that it was a surf mat “yeah I saw a guy riding one at Salt Creek the other day”.
So why am I the only one out riding the most advanced wave riding craft on the planet?
Why haven’t the masses caught on?
When Greenough changed everything about wave riding with his kneeboard Velo the cutting edge board riders (McTavish, Young etc) were quick to cut their board’s length down and change the fins to something more organic and functional. Surfing maneuvers, like nose riding and drop knee turns which had been cutting edge on 9’6” 50/50 railed logs were replaced by more radical bottom turn top turn combinations and significantly more time was spent in the tube.
The best professional wave riders on the planet were hungry for “total involvement” and a style of surfing which was less surfing the board and more about surfing the wave.
The top pros, for the most part, have fallen back into that same rigid surf contest based definition of what constitutes surfing once again. Just as nose riding (a sport within a sport) once ruled surf contests, aerials are now the ticket to winning your heat and assuring the continued corporate sponsorship all pro surfers rely upon.
Will there be a paradigm shift moving away from the current definition of contest surfing as the gold standard and back to a “the best surfer out is the one having the most fun” definition of a good day in the surf?
I think so.
Free surfers or pros that no longer let the “three turns to the beach” mentality control their approach are on the rise, some are even retaining full corporate sponsorship.
Even more important is that everyday surfers are beginning to include alternative surf craft in their quivers.
The recent Hand plane Hoedown has drawn international attention. Paipo, Alaias and body surfing are all making a comeback, not that they really ever left. So long as wave riders for go their leashes, waves will be waves and toss said riders ass over tin cup requiring a body surf to the beach to recover their surf craft. When "surfing" is not so narrowly defined as standing up on a board, the full spectrum of wave riding can be experienced not as separate pieces but as part of the whole enchilada.
Standing up on a Alaia or a fish, lying down on a mat or a Paipo or total imersed body surfing or using a handplane.
Surfers just want to have fun!
Remember the kids I mentioned as the beginning of the post? After I had shown them the mat I was riding, a Fourth Gear Flyer, one of them asked me what I did when I lost the mat in a wipe out. I replied that since I had fins on and was probably still in decent position in the lineup I would just body surf for a while then pick up my mat and continue surfing it. A wipe out wasn't a failure it just required some shifting gears to continue the stoke. The poor lad, raised on a steady diet of magazines and contest video had never considered that surfing could be anything more than the one dimensional exercise that he saw the pros do in the magazines.
The revolution is in the works but it still hasn't reached the farthest or in some cases even the nearest corners of the surfing world yet.
A bit of a Holloween, Days and Nights of the undead, Surf story...
in the backyard for weeks
covered in mud
the result of my son’s nocturnal roaming
thru the back bay mud
It was irritating,
a good pair of regulation
going to waste
I have worn out
over the years
The blue suede ones
in high school
as much as a uniform
as the red ones were that
I wore busing tables at the Cannery restaurant
my senior summer
(I had long hair and had to wear a wig to work
but that's another post)
Immortalized as the prefered footwear of surfers in Fast Times at Ridgemont High
Vans have been around for ages (Founded: March 16, 1966)
One of there big draws was they came in different colors and materials,
other that blue and white canvas Keds or Converse
Surfers are hip and unique individuals
so we all had to have something different on our feets...
They had a store right across the street from my high school
the shoes held up well,
and the box was useful
My seashell collection currently resides in one on my closet top shelf
Vans were indeed my shoe of choice for decades
I'm partial to the two tone blue slipons...
these shoes go to waste
First I soaked them
in a bucket
they would never be
snow white again
So and idea came to me
as all ideas do
during my morning
I am a sloppy
and I know
it stains everything in its path
stains it good
so in full Cyrus Sutton DIY mode
I would use a half pound
of the weird espresso
to stain them
after a week in the coffee bucket
RIP James Van Doren co founder of the Van Doren rubber company.
500 AM PDT MON OCT 14 2013
FOR THE EASTERN NORTH PACIFIC...
EAST OF 140 DEGREES WEST LONGITUDE..
THE NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER IS ISSUING ADVISORIES
ON TROPICAL STORM OCTAVE...
LOCATED A FEW HUNDRED MILES SOUTH-SOUTHWEST
OF CABO SAN LAZARO MEXICO...
AND HAS INITIATED ADVISORIES ON TROPICAL STORM PRISCILLA...
LOCATED ABOUT 700 MILES SOUTHWEST OF THE SOUTHERN TIP
OF THE BAJA CALIFORNIA PENINSULA.
Nothing says "Fall" more than a two pack of hurricanes
*If these storms were called "Biggie Big" and "Snoop"
I would say we have a "Tupac of hurricanes"
But they aren't
and I can't
and on this chilly Monday morning
I think we are all a little bit
because of that...