/*23 Breaths: September 2009*/

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Tsunami Advisory

Back to our regularly scheduled blog post...

I haven't been in the water since Saturday's session with Jonathan.

Which is OK as most of my "free time" is spoken for with miscellaneous projects.

But I have been watching the PBS special

Good stuff

Reminds me that I should reread my John Muir.

I picked up this volume a while back and it's got everything.
The story of his boyhood and life before he came west,
his many inventions etc.

All that background makes the Yosemite and Sierra writings that much better.
Muir has a personal style that is religious in it's fervor when he talks about the natural world and his beloved Yosemite in particular.

If you are looking for an interesting book on big trees.

Take a gander at

The Wild Trees by Richard Preston

The author gets involved with scientists who are climbing the largest trees to study the little worlds that are completely contained in the tops of the worlds largest living things.

More interesting that I make it sound.

I need to reread this one again too.

Meanwhile back on the net

Stumbled across this body surfing site:

A small blog but good photographs and links to other body surfing sites and a list of books on body surfing. Which is something you don't see everyday. The current post contains a Vimeo clip from a cam mounted on a hand board.

I find the weirdest stuff when looking for pictures to go with my blog posts!

PS - Just a blog note. I did a little more "mash up" than usual with the inclusion of the Muir book. Let me know if it causes problems for you.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Surf Report

trees give me
the surf report
too windy to check it

Only 90+ shopping days till Christmas

The book "Surfing and Health" by Dorian Paskowitz MD would make a great Xmas gift

Just sayin'

Surf Art

The surf gallery will be hosting the Julie Goldstein exhibition

"Come swim with me"

in Laguna Beach on Friday, October 2nd from 6 to 10pm

Click on the Surf Gallery link for more details

Surf Report

Is that off shore winds in the NWS forecast?

No coffee this morning, that's all I got

Monday, September 28, 2009

Ugh, it's Monday

You may wonder what's it matter to him?
He just lounges around all day
Like a lotto millionaire without the cash
But monday is monday
no matter who you are and what language you speak
Today feels like a Monday,
But anyway...

The SoCal heat wave is scheduled to continue around the wheel toward more
seasonal temperatures
Speaking of seasonal,
after the approaching low passes by
(expect a little wind and some yard work weather for a day or two)
there are threats or promises of some offshore wind later in the week.
We'll see...

10 things you really need for Winter
Since I had a good time with some
"10 things you need, don't need and need to do" posts for the summer
I think I'll do it again but for the fall / winter seasons
This would be akin to the wetsuit buyers guide you see in the mags
but without the free "test suits" being delivered to my door
but with my real opinion

I'll give you one for free and then move on
For Halloween I'm getting a pig mask and going as H1N1

Terrifying I know.
And for those of you that think Halloween is not surf related
you just haven't been paying close enough attention.
Other than the Xmas shopping holiday which fuels most retail sales here in the states
Halloween is THE surfing holiday

And no it has nothing to do with surfing pugs, although that is scary

Friday, September 25, 2009

Sea Bats

Ripped off one of Kaser's photos from this morning.

It was foggy...

Else where on the net

(Thanks to JayB - ndslibrarian)

Cycle Zombies

I do my best to support zombies, no matter their orientation or mode of transport.

You have to admit the slow walking with outstretched arms thing was getting old, and was pretty easy to out run, so the cycle thing makes total sense!

So anyway Hurley of surf wear fame has got something going this weekend with the CZ's

Je suis fini!

That's it for this week.

No surf mat riders gathering this weekend,

the waiting period is extended,

the search continues

One more thing

I forgot to mention

the Kind Lines art show and auction benefiting Surf Aid International

OK now I'm done

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Webby Linky Surfy Surfy

I haven't done any new webby linky surfy surfy lately so,

Here's a nice green one by the multi - talented Josh Berry,

Environmentalist - Green Surfing

This week he posts an interview with Kelly Slater.

Kelly says " he wants to shape and ride a surfboard that's almost hollow, with a super thin deck into which he steps: a highly flexible watercraft through which he would actually feel the wave rushing beneath his feet, changing shape as the wave forms and pressing back into it with his toes and heels. "

Could someone get mister Slater a surf mat?

Thank you

(can you imagine what he would do with one?!)

If you like your websites to come with a side order of deep space try

A good site, lots goin' on, definitely not CNN

Last for today,

but certainly not least,

(well yes, as it turns out, least)

(pun, you'll get it in a minute)

is a site by the Sea and Sage Audubon Society

In case you ever wondered how things were going

on the other side of the fence.

(The Snowy Plover Project is the name of my new rock band)

PS One more thing,

Response for a matter gathering this Saturday has been under whelming.

Unless there is a flurry of last minute emails I'll extend the waiting period.

(save myself the drive, the aggravation and the gas)

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

The restless are natives

Or is it "The natives are restless"?

Either way,

the southern hemi has been quiet, too quiet,

(If I throw in "it was a dark and stormy night" I'll have a blog cliche trifecta!)

either way, to circle back around,

(yes, its a business cliche reference so it doesn't count!)

What to do about Mat-A-Palooza?

If memory serves,

(The Eddie waiting period (12/08 - 2/09) came and went too)

This weekend looks like the end of our window

(or the beginning of a new window, if you would like)

So a show of hands of those whose busy schedules would allow them a quick trip to

the Southern California surfing Mecca...

(drum roll)


this Saturday morning.

Trestles would give us a shot at Cottons, Uppers, Lowers, SanO and the surrounding areas.

PS the Rob Machado Surf Experience will be happening this weekend in Cardiff!

(which might lure a few dozen groms away from Trestles for the day)

Tuesday, September 22, 2009


The Fall Equinox is today

I have been heralding its coming for weeks now
Every time I do
it gets more summer like

It's made me stop and think
when is fall?

Someone said that fall
is when you have to start wearing socks again

Clay Fin says it's fall because the Halloween decorations are out

the socks thing
is good
but varies
person to person
place to place

Halloween is a just another
of honorable
Pagan traditions
(but I love those little candies)

So I have to conclude it's Fall
when the winds start,
the Santa Ana winds
the Diablo winds
the Off Shore winds!

In SoCal
the general weather patterns change
and large areas of high pressure
sit and spin
hundreds of miles

We are at the bottom of the rotation and the winds
rush off shore

Why this makes some fool start a fire
I'll never know
But once they start
No one can stop them

Full moon

Fire in the canyon

All night long

The efforts are strictly aimed at preserving
life and property

and it puts me in a sort of quandary,
I like what the winds do to the surf
but I hate what they do to anything in the path of the flames

Autumn breezes

grooming wind swell

burn down the house

My car is covered

with the ashes

of neighbors hopes and dreams

So not to close on too much of a bummer

If the decorations are up
and you are wearing socks
doing your fall rituals
and its smoky outside
it's fall

Monday, September 21, 2009

Monday Monday Flex Fins

I may have mentioned that I don't surf much on the weekends

Several reasons for that

I get to surf during the week so it seems a little piggy to surf the weekends too,

considering that Sat and Sun are the whole surf week for a lot of people.

Then there are the crowds of previously mentioned folks out to get their waves.

So when Monday rolls around, I have spent a lot of time thinking about how many great waves I've missed over the last several days.

in my mind
its always better
when I'm not there

You know it's bad when the croissants I make for the kids are starting to look like flex fins!

Whilst still on the topic of flex fins,

For the record, I did not "thumb test" any of the fins above.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Surf Movie To(morrow) Night!

The Living Curl!

It's Saturday night,
it hot,
you're by the beach
in back of a surf shop
watching a surf movie

What could be better?


Shelter Party Saturday September 19th from 7pm to 11pm

1960’s Classic “The Living Curl” with LIVE narration by Jamie Budge.

6tees art show featuring the work of graphic artist and Shaper Randy Gibbs FREE!!

Feel free to bring Chairs and Blankets as the film will be shown outdoors behind the shop

Shelter Surf Shop

2148 E 4th Street

Long Beach, CA 90808

for more info, call the Shop at 562-342-4401

The End

End Photo from the Daily Bread

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Michael Petersen is Coming!

In the mail this morning I got the official announcement of the US Tour for Searching for Michael Petersen.

It's playing surf shops on both coasts so you should be able to see it locally without driving too far.

I liked this quote from the press kit, "The story of Michael Petersen makes 'Fear and Loathing in Los Vegas' look like 'Alice in Wonderland' "

If you can't wait and want to purchase the DVD now go to searching for michael peterson

SCREENING DATES (more dates to be announced soon)


Wednesday, September 16, 2009

On Surfari

Be back soon


If you watch the video more than once you will become totally addicted

You'll be humming it to yourself for days

And will probably end up in rehab.

Just saying

Monday, September 14, 2009

Monday Monday

Just to break things up.
I am did a post on my other long neglected blog
"Frequent Rip Currents" showing how I bake bread.
Mildly amusing and riddled with puns and inside jokes

On a different note:

Do you think Charles Manson is sitting in jail with the new Beatles box set listening to Helter Skelter thinking to himself,

"Oh, that's what they said. Never mind then. I think I should have joined the Peace Corps"

Yea neither do I.

Lots to talk about this morning.

Events I missed last week:

ASR 09 -
I'm not "in the industry" but parts of it would have been interesting.

Festiva Organicus gathering -
I think this would have been a blast.

Surf Indian shop opening in PB -
I know I don't fit the demographic but I do like to look at the boards and check out the art.

The Sacred Craft - Tribute to the Master Shape Off -
Really would have liked to check this stuff out.

Quite the quiver there.

If you are into it I'll post pictures and let you vote on your favorite.

(Let me know in the comments)

Things I will be missing this week include:

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Surf Swap On Sunday

Fun for the weekend

Come and take advantage of some great deals at Shelter’s first Annual End Of Summer Sale Starting Friday, September 11th through Sunday September 13th.

They’ll be offering great deals on almost everything in the store.

Check the Shelter site for full details

JUST ADDED – Impromptu Surf Swap On Sunday from 11am to 3pm!!

Individuals and vendors alike will be selling Used boards, New and Used Clothing

and Surf Memorabilia swap meet style behind the shop.

Friday, September 11, 2009

First things first

Festivus Organicus is this weekend

I wish I could get there
but I can't
damn the electric fence

Pendo will be spreading the word
Steve going left

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Ok Ok Ok

I know the last time I said I could feel
fall in the air
the seasons change

We had a heat wave
that lasted
two weeks
(the wild fire is still burning)

so I'm saying nothing

but, we do seem to be in that phase where,

the south is looking sleepy,

and the north is just waking up

yawning, rubbing it's eyes
(its raining in Portland)

looking for a cup of coffee
and getting ready for the show

No matter

Enjoy the images

Some of my favorites

Wednesday, September 9, 2009



Today's post will be more disjointed than usual

just so you know.

I has come to my attention that September is

Not sure which "Nation"

Don't care

Everyone breath mindfully

and think about ourselves as international citizens.

From the OMG file

Two shots of Tim Burnham surfing the Wedge during last months big swell

Found the shots over at Hippy Tree.

So thanks to them for posting

Not sure who the photographer is

Tim has an online apparel store called AntiApparel


There is a new UK based Mat forum - UK Mat Surfers

So stop by, sign up and save the link

From the WOW file

I think he is crazy

I would have it scanned then keep it in a nitrogen filled vault along with the

mostly cause we hold these truths to be self evident,

the thing is too cool to part with.

But if you look at what he is keeping in his quiver it makes sense.

Sort of

I hope someone with a ton of cash buys it and donates it to the

Surf Heritage Foundation for the tax write-off

The SHF is where truly great boards go to be ogled at by freaks like myself.

Speaking of the SHF, did you know they do Friday night surf movies?

Nether did I

I wish I lived closer,

or had more gas in the tank

If you do or you do check out the website for details.

I always liked the guitar work on the first few bars of this one

So they digitized everything,
remixed it all
and will sell you the catalog

If they could make it 1969 again
I'd be the first in line.

Mat-A-Palooza watch day 200 -

If next Tuesday was Saturday I'd say lets all go surf Trestles
or Cottons maybe

Since WaveWatch is calling for a varied 1 foot plus swells
to wedge into an occasional sub three footer

I'm thinking of holding off until later

But let me know what you think

as I am frequently wrong about these things


Tuesday, September 8, 2009

eight foot oh

The eight foot board realm is an interesting one.

Not a short board
but not a long board
at the same time
being both.

Not to say it can't be surfed like either,
and circumstances may dictate that it is.

But there is a soulful envelope
the 8'ers fit into
that is unique.

Not picking off every ripple outside,
but gracefully riding with the wave
in a thoughtfully aware sort of way.
Enjoying the ride to the fullest
but being careful not to damage the wave
in the process.

Every surfer should surf a quiver,
(I had "own" in place of "surf" in the sentence above
but owning a quiver and surfing a quiver are two
different things, as we all know)

and the mid-range lengths are perhaps one of the
sub categories most deserving of extensive exploration.

And in most cases, they'll still fit in the car without racks!

Examples can be anything,
from fun board beaters you teach someone to surf on
or a life and death gun
that makes you nervous to contemplate.

The seven foot range are maybe next most comprehensive category.

Six footers and below have,
due to mass alone,
a narrower band of purpose
and are usually shaped for one
delightfully specific use.

The same with the nine foot and up group.

There are exceptions,
cross all boundaries, defy labels
and are beholden only to themselves.

But then,
they are magic,
and are truly,
gifts from beyond.

Certainly an eight oh would make the perfect
"stuck on a deserted island" board.

Of course, a mat would be better, but hey, aren't they always. ;)

This morning's post was obviously inspired by SurfSis' new board, check it out.

(BTW, M you are getting close to getting an intervention,
well probably not, mostly because I'm always checking to see what's next)

Speaking of what's next.

Mat-A-Palooza is still on hold
does see something for the next two weekends
in his crystal ball.

So read the reports,
consult your calendars, PDA's, Ouija boards, or whatever
and get back to me about your preferences.

PS - on the book table this morning are
Jim Harrison - The shape of the Journey, new and collected poems
Ken Carey - Flat Rock Journal, a day in the Ozark Mountains

Monday, September 7, 2009

Labor Day

Since it's Labor Day

I have no intention of working

even if I had a job.

Here are some interesting pictures I've seen around the net lately

Photo from Surfer's Path email

Great shot of what used to be known as a "Pole Set"

Uluwatu photo from "A Hull New World / Pizza Time" blog

I was there in 74. The wave is the same but we had to walk thru a farmers field to the cave and descend a rather rickety ladder. I understand it's changed.

This last one is another emailed photo. This time from Wetsand.
Photo by Jim Martin.

I would like to thank them for reminding me that there are other seasons than summer.

Just like last night reminded me there were temperatures other than hot.

Enjoy the day!

PS - Mat-A-Palooza still on hold waiting for surf.
Moonlight Beach has been tossed out a possibility.
I've never surfed there but the setup looks fun.
Any thoughts?

Friday, September 4, 2009

Flat, flatter flatness

Pretty small as of late but

since things happen in waves

it just means that surf is right

around the corner

Adam Wright's Southern California Surf Forecast hints that some deep south energy may be on the way for mid month.

Stay tuned

Thursday, September 3, 2009

no post for you!

In my mind, I've gone to Burning Man!

Although to be fair

It was nice yesterday

the water was warm and clear

I spent most of my time watching fish swim


I would help a poor lost swell

find it's way to shore

PS and I remembered my hat so I don't look and feel like a lit match

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

It's Wednesday, right?

Reading some of Jim Harrison at the moment.

Good stuff

"Everything written in the past should be discarded in favor of the free flow of what is at hand"

The quote above is from his book "Just before dark"

You could omit the word "written" or replace it with anything you like

and be at the heart of many of the worlds great religions / philosophy's.

one day last winter

K1 left his board on the beach

and rode a few

on that piece of plywood he found floating

on the river