/*23 Breaths: September 2010*/

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Gone Surfin' II

Best day of the Summer (so far) yesterday so I'm on it again!

Farrah Fawcett was a goofy foot!

 I never knew!

Do you think?


Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Monday, September 27, 2010

Reason number 23

why surf mats are more fun

When the air temperature skyrocket,

your surfwax doesn't melt!

Surfed the south side this morning with vacationing ChileDub.

It wasn't quite this big but it was fun

and the water was warm.

 It was,

"the summer that never was"


Important new on the horizon,

Stay tuned!

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Just like Summer!

The weather is hot

there is no surf to speak of

and there is a surf contest

just like summer!

but of  course its not

But who wants to squabble

the trunks speak for themselves

But the boards look fun

Friday, September 24, 2010

10 Things to do before Winter comes

I have been musing about Summer

or really the lack of Summer for several months now

but since the equinox I figure its time to move on to Winter.

Funny thing, now that I have completely given up on Summer we are on track to get "Summer like" temperatures this weekend...

So what does one do to get ready for Winter?

First, make an appointment with your dermatologist to get that funny looking mole checked out

You know you have been skipping the sunblock and basking in all the thermonuclear radiation you can get for months (maybe years!)

Soon you will be covered from head to toe in wool and turtle fur not to emerge (not unlike a butterfly) until sometime next spring

So do this now!

Worst thing ever is to reach for your spring suit with the new arm you sprouted over the cold months.

I know you are saying, "Prana, dude I check!"

No. No you don't check, at least not very well and not with the skill of a good dermatologist.

So go!

Make matching appointments with your significant other!

Make a family appointment and get lunch /dinner afterward and make an event out of it!

Do it for me

I need all the readers I can get

Besides this is serious as well as important and you aren't going to read this in the mags (even the good ones)

How many waves like this do you want to miss?

Yea I know this wasn't ten things but I'll get to them and I needed to fake you into reading the whole piece hoping that I would get to something interesting eventually. 

For my Southern Hemisphere readers, I know I make comments like "summer and winter" based on what I  look out the window and see. Just give it the old 180 degree spin and you will be right on target! 

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Autumnal Equinox

Painting by the incredible William Wendt

Your calendar may have said it was yesterday, but the entire staff here at 23Breaths are celebrating the Autumnal Equinox  today on the 23rd. (as it should be! oh and the full moon just makes it even more special!)

With such an odd summer season I look forward to see what winter 2010-2011 will bring us.

We will just have to mindfully wait and see what happens.

The SoCal forecast for the next several days calls for a heat wave, mild offshore winds and not much swell.  At this point if it started raining toads I wouldn't be all that surprised. 

Not amused mind you, but not much surprised

As part of the ongoing 23 Breaths Mat Surfing and Book Club section I wanted to share an author I just stumbled on at the library.

No it not like he was bending down to tie his shoe lace and I wasn't watching where I was going and fell over him. But I was looking at book reviews of authors I like and his name came up and I checked out a couple of his earlier works.

So if you haven't read Matt Ruff you may want to look him up.  I am flying through his first novel Fool on a Hill and have the next Sewer, Gas and Electric at hand ready to go. 

Fool on a Hill was written when the author was only 23 and twenty three is used liberally though the book.  

How can I not like this guy!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

I used to ride a raft

I knew it was coming

all the signs were there

plain as day.

Sitting outside beyond the break

(what am I doing there?)

we two travelers

unintentionally pushed into some communal space

requiring a polite attempt at conversation

The guy looks down at me

from atop his 9'6"

with four fins

and the after market turbo boost

it looks like he feeds it raw liver twice a day

Here it comes,

is it too late to paddle away?

"Yep, I used to ride a raft when I was a kid!"

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

If surfers won’t save the world, who will? - WSR

The World Surfing Reserve is a new "save the surf" organization whose charter is to designate particular breaks as worthy based on

"1) Quality and consistency of the wave or surf zone
 2) Environmental characteristics of the area
 3) Surf culture and history of the area
 4) Local community support" 

and then attempts to "preserves outstanding waves, surf zones and their surrounding environments, around the world".

The first designated spot is Malibu and I wish them the best of luck, even though Malibu is a "hardboard area" and is off limits to mat riders.

They are having a fund raiser October 6th

Find out more about the World Surfing Reserve organization here

Monday, September 20, 2010

Fall Planting

Surfing in the summer that never was,
Jason and I at the mat meet. Photo by Ken

I did some of the fall garden planting over the weekend.

Collards, Swiss Rainbow Chard and Mustard Greens.

It's really nice to be able to walk outside and harvest a bit of dinner.

The dark green leafy vegetables are a rich source of minerals (including iron, calcium, potassium, and magnesium) and vitamins, including vitamins K, C, E, and many of the B vitamins. 

Easy to grow too, if I can do it, you can too! Trust me on this

Some more south swell over the weekend but I am getting tired of the side shore south winds.

Anyone know when the morning offshore winds will start up again?

I can deal with the chilly water and winds if the waves are groomed to look like this!

I like to try out the winter gear before it's necessary just to make sure there isn't anything that needs repair etc.

Since I wore my winter 3/2 wetsuit all summer it was just a matter of trying out the hood.

A comfortable hood is a great thing on a cold or windy morning.  You loose a lot of heat out of your head so it's a good thing to keep warm.

In SoCal it's seen as goofy and uncool to wear a hood (and it is) but nothing keeps you warmer then a decent hood. Remember the autumnal equinox is just a few days away! 

A couple of cool things to check out on the web


See you around the next bend in the trail.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

To Autumn

A couple of lines from the John Keats poem "To Autumn"

"Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, 

Picture ripped from the archives of Daily Bread and modified

Where are the songs of Spring? Ay, where are they?"

"Songs of Spring" eh, I'm still wondering where Summer went, although past is past and a better question would be what will winter bring? 

An even better approach would be to paddle out in this mornings fog and have a go at the waves that are here and now.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Yard Possums and Foam Slabs

If you liked the foam block surfing in Stoked and Broke you'll like this

Stranger than Friction... filming for "Stoked and Broke" from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

Looks like so much fun!

I wonder where you can get some of that foam?

and a couple of those lefts...

Friday, September 17, 2010

I just got back from the Stoked and Broke movie.

The evening started with a pre movie stop at the Almond surf shop for some Tarp Surfing at Korduroy reef

Splitting the peak

Pretty casual for a double over head barrel over a barely submerged reef!

I swear this next guy is on a mat


So after the tarp surfing it was on to the show.

The story centers around Cyrus Sutton and Ryan Burch as they take a "stoked but broke" surfing stay-cation in San Diego. Walking from break to break while earning enough money to surf and survive.

Like all good movies the film works on several levels.

There is enough comedy to crack up the audience.  If Bruce Brown taught filmmakers only one thing, it’s that people want laughs as much as stand up tubes and the wipeout reel.

There is enough good surfing to hoot at, hey this is San Diego they are walking through and the pair scored a variety of quality waves.

There is more variety in surf craft than you see in most other movies and some surf craft you’ll see nowhere else.  Ryan Burch and Cyrus riding unglassed closed cell foam slabs. Cyrus surfing his self made hand plane. Miscellaneous self shaped long boards and garage sale finds. The theme of the movie is DIY and have fun.

The duo visits interesting people along the way and the film turns out to be entertaining and intellectuality stimulating.

Yes, in a surf film.

Stoked and Broke invites us to ponder our relationship with our surfing, our place in our consumer driven society and what it means to be free.

I liked it, if it comes to your town, go see it.

More info on the Get Stoked tour

PS I spoke with Cyrus before the movie and he told me how he was looking forward to adding a mat to his quiver!

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Notes for a Thursday

There is gonna be a surf mat article in the Japanese surf magazine Blue.

It looks like the article will be in Japanese.  Which makes total sense if you think about it.

Check it out

Mark sent me these picture and mentioned that he is still running his special intro price on the MT5

Tonight is the showing of the Cyrus Sutton's film "Stoked and Broke" at the Lido theater in Newport Beach.

For more Get Stoked tour info click on this link

More Mat Sales

Paul is putting his entire line of mats on sale starting October 1 get the whole story here

Dale's Neumatic surfmats are available thru this link

Shelter Sale

Graham is having a sale at the Shelter Surf Shop  mention you saw his FB post

So there you have it!

No excuses for not being well read, clothed in this seasons fashions,  stoked on the latest surf movie and having a fully stocked quiver.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Stoked and Broke this Thursday!

S & B seems like my motto these last few years

but the movie "Stoked and Broke" by Cyrus Sutton has its local premiere this Thursday at the Lido Theater in Newport Beach at 8pm

I have my ticket so I'll see you there!

Stoked & Broke Teaser from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

For more get stoked tour info click on the link

PS It's my youngest son's 21 birthday today, Happy Birthday Thomas!, so tomorrows post should be interesting.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Let's just call it Fall

Photo by Jason Hall at Daily Bread

The picture above is from last year

I can tell by two things

first I'm squinting into the sun

OK I squint a lot due to light sensitivity and a gnarly astigmatism 

but there wasn't much sun this summer

but I really know that it was last year because

I'm wearing my "Spring Suit" 

so it couldn't have been this year

the water never really warmed up

normally by now the water temps

would be in the upper sixties maybe lower seventies

The Autumnal Equinox is on the 23rd  

and coincides with a full moon!

Let's just call it Fall

Monday, September 13, 2010

BagJuan's UDT Mods

ChileDub sent me this photo of BagJuan's UDT strap mod.

(Do all mat riders have aliases or is it a web thing?)

Just so you don't get fixed on modifying the blades of your fins as the only change you can make.
From the lab of Bagjuan; 
In preparation for episode five "Matagonia", of the Slither`n Trilogy.
Work began by ginning up the fins to accommodate seven mil. boots. Fin size jumped from Medium to Super! Blade profiles remained "full thrust." Stainless steel drum screws were set to anchor adjustable divers fin heel straps, allowing a wide range of comfort options. Diamondback traction strips were added to the bottoms of the foot wells, enhancing grippage needed on approaches beyond the Northern Gate.
(I had to translate text above from the original Elvish in which it was sent, but I think I captured the essence of it.)

So Mod On, Brothers and Sisters.
Go slow but make haste! 
The winter that, 
the summer never was, 
is fast approaching.
And everyone needs good fins.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

I must insist

That everybody twist!

Dude! First your home movies of the zoo trip and now random music video?

Nea, I say! Twisting is the closest thing to riding a mat on dry land there is!

Saturday, September 11, 2010

San Diego Zoo

Another trip to the World Famous San Diego Zoo yesterday!

Is the weather ever less than perfect in San Diego?

Some brief glimpses of the surf on the way down looks like the new swell is not quite here yet.

But the weather was perfect and my wife and I needed to get away from the OC for a while for a nice walk around the zoo.

The is a new Giraffe at he zoo.  He still wanted to nurse but mom was only putting up with that for so long.

An Elephant splashing, such amazing souls. Right after the water she gave herself a dust bath.

 Panda pic of the Panda playing the flute.

What would you think, if you had no previous knowledge of these animals and came across them for the first time?

Friday, September 10, 2010

More GG UDT mods

A bigger shot of George Greenough's UDT mods.

Open in it's own tab or window for a better look.

The photo in courtesy of Warren Pfeiffer.

This comes to me and to us from Dale Solomonson who had this to say about fin mods.

Re: The Greenough mods shot by Warren Pfeiffer. I've attached a larger
image- nice to study.
Note important detail in photos: in addition to thinning and
shortening, George also CUPPED the underside of the blades. His goal
was an efficient "motoring speed"... what he'd need maybe 80% of the

Many mat surfers in the roughly 120 to 170 lb. range have come to
regard recent generation UDTs as high quality rubber swim fin "blanks"
to be re-shaped and fine-tuned... the blades, foot pockets and heel

Swim fins customized for an individual's mat surfing needs are not a
simplistic project to undertake. There have been many experiments on
a wide range of fins... I've even made my own from scratch.

Many people who can wear UDTs right out of the box, for hours of water
time without cramping... but they're usually very strong, heavier
(closer to 200+ lbs.), experienced swim fin users.

Besides comfort, it's also important to consider what such swim fins
might do to your feet, ankles, knees... I have floating bone fragments
in both ankles because of wearing fins that were too large and

If you are still game then you can contact the Doctor,  Greg Deets at parsimony (at) earthlink.net to get a pair.

(Note I've done that replace the @ with a (at) thing in the email address to help keep the spam down.)
One more thing,
Just when I thought my fins were perfect I noticed that winter water temperatures stiffened them up.  It's a process. Just remember you can always take off more but you can't add it back. So go slow and test a lot.   
So send in your trials and tribulations, questions and photos and as a group we will get it all sorted out. 

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Mat SciFi

I thought I would paddle out old style, under my own power even though everyone takes the water taxi out to the lineup now a days.

It not a taxi of course, but a custom backwash wave that moves you from the shore out to the waves

or where the waves will be, its sheet glass right now, not even a ripple.

The artificial off shore wind machine hadn’t started yet.

The waves I ordered from Surfline won’t be arriving for another 15 minutes yet. Surfline – “Let us know before you go and we’ll make it so".

The weather modification technologies that became available after the big nano tech breakthrough allow the onetime forecasting company to manufacture swell to order now.  I have been following the storms since I put my order in and the waves will arrive right on time or your money back. LOLA wave modeling programs which started off modeling swell and bathymetry now worked in conjunction with an AI and nano tech in the sea floor to provide the perfect ocean floor for the swell directions. Directions plural because the Surfline WaveMaker 2.0 release guaranteed that several swells could be generated to arrive at exactly the prearranged time and coordinates. Perfect "A Frame" peaks every time, unless you request something that wraps…

It was going to be my first go out on my new mat, a PranaGlider-23B.  I had just printed it and a new pair of Voit fins out from a 3D printer right on the beach. Carrying around gear stopped when you could save your personal designs on the web and then print it out with a 3D Ink Jet. When you are done the molecules are released back into the atmosphere as non polluting particles. 

The mat has a wave / sea floor interface with auto inflation and instant volume adjustment. The mat is filled with hydrogen gas it extracts out of the water and into the mat thru a smart membrane all controlled by direct neural connection with the visor I wear. It all happens in a millisecond. The AI in the mat monitors the wave, the ocean bottom and your body language and handles all the details. Sometimes I'll hack the program so I can drive. Just like the old days.

I have just enough time this morning to catch 2 of the three thousand yard rights I ordered 10 days ago. My friends think I’m crazy for ordering up waves and then letting them go unridden.  There is something about watching a wave peel off down the beach perfect and untouched that I find exciting and after the first two I am usually ready for a break.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Lao Tzu rides a mat

Matitude bending it at the Mat Meet

“…I saw how it bends, flowing with the wind…”

newborn – we are tender and weak
in death – we are rigid and stiff
living plants are supple and yielding
dead branches are dry and brittle
so the hard and unyielding belong to death
and the soft and pliant belong to life
an inflexible army does not triumph
an unbending tree breaks in the wind
thus the rigid and inflexible will surely fail
while the soft and flowing will prevail
From the Tao Te Ching – Lao Tzu - chapter 76

Lao Tzu lived in the six century BC
But still, given this excerpt from the Tao Te Ching,
I think that Lao Tzu rides a mat.

If you want a more current take on why mats are so much fun to ride here is George Greenough's take on it

Mr. Greenough knows the advantages of "soft and flowing" too

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Canadian Mat Meet Eh!

This video of the North Lights mat meet comes in from Mattitude

Ken Dog and friends tearing it up in the Canadian Mist

Monday, September 6, 2010

I have two winter grade 3/2 mm wetsuits that I have used all summer.
(That I have worn winter wetsuits all summer is a crying shame that I will address in another post)

They have done well but given that they were two or three years old to start with it's time to get some new neophrene.

I have always thought that surf mat riders are a little more in the water than board surfers and that they have different needs when it comes to wetsuits.

While fit and construction is perhaps the biggest factor in wetsuit functionality I am wondering what you readers have found in the wide world of wetsuits.

So give me your

Opinion on O'Neills
the Rap on the Ripcurls
the Brass Tacks about Body Glove
your eXperience with Xcel's
the Hard Facts about Hurley's
any Quips on the Quiksilvers would be appreciated
I need the background on Billabongs
the Memorandums on Matuse
the Abstracts on Axxe
and of course
the Poop on Patagonia.

I'm a pretty easy fit in most of the major brands so thats not a big deal.  I have no idea how I might pay for this purchase the cost to comfort ratio is important.

So comment away readers comment away

Sunday, September 5, 2010

More Mods

Since I have been on a fin mod theme here at 23B I started looking up some more shots and links to how people are changing their fins.

The Greenough mods shot by Warren Pfeiffer.

Greenough cut down the length of the fins, thinned the ribs and changed the shape of the straps to fit his feet and ankles.

Here is another link to Swaylocks where they have spent years discussing fin mods.

I did another post on fins a while back about some different kinds of fins and the strengths and weaknesses of each.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Ordering UDT's

UDT's in paradise

The other day in the UDT post I included some links to sources for purchasing UDT's online.

Some how I forgot to mention you can email Dr. Deets and order them through him!

Email the man directly at parsimony(AT)earthlink.net. I did and the process works great!

I have modified the email address above so net spiders don't fill his email box with spam replace the (AT) with an @ sign and email away!

Check out this article on Deets at All About Surf 

Friday, September 3, 2010

Pizza Thursday!

While Earl pounds the East Coast (which sounds like a porn movie) the surf has sort of leveled off at knee high for SoCal for the Labor Day Weekend.  There might be a little bump on Monday. 

While locally the water and air temperatures may go down as the coldest on record (or at least recent memory) I keep thinking what this Fall and Winter will bring. 

Now that we have surfing covered we can concentrate on dinner!

Homemade crust, tomatoes and basil from the garden, mushrooms from the local produce market and olives from a can.  This covers the four basic food groups (homemade, from the garden, locally grown and canned).

Have a good weekend and be safe.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

UDT Mods

Any of you fans of the lo-tech hi-joy blog (I am) know that nspye has decided to move up to the BIG FINS in the barrel the, the Voit UDTs.

The UDT is a lot of fin. Some prefer them as is, right out of the box. Some like to mow them down here and there, tuning them to their particular foot shape and flex.

Here are some pictures that I hope will give you the relative size of UDTs compared to Duckfeet. The Fin on the top is a Super Extra Large Voit  Duckfoot, the middle fin is an extra large and the bottom one is a large UDT. On my feet the fit is not the same, the UDT's have a wider foot pocket, but given that the XL Duckfeet are comparable to the large UDTs.

I need to mention here that I have already trimer almost an inch off the side ribs of the UDTs.

Big Big Fins!

And the thick ribs go all the way to the end.

I am definitely not trying to discourage anyone from getting a pair of UDTs.

I'm stoked I got mine and they are great fins.

If you can use them right out of the box they are the most powerful fin in the world.

If not, they make a great project.

They are the only long fins on the market that accommodate wide feet and with a little work you can make yourself some custom fins that work perfect!

Here are some places online you can get UDT's

Voit  - the manufacture

Amazon - they have everything

Sports Authority -  Misc sporting goods

Swaylocks has several threads about making mods on UDT

I may do a step by step mod post in the future so stay tuned

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Lost and Found

I was going thru some old things this morning

"Old things" for me, means the assorted flotsam and jetsam I have gathered in the last few years

(No I couldn't possibly throw that away! It's a prime example of 1978 plastic giveaway crap with a beach theme!! I this point my wife, (who is a saint by the way) has learned to just roll her eyes and plan for the day when she can rid the nest of all this junk.)

Amongst my precious treasures, a unmarked CD caught my eye and I ran to the computer to see what I had. (BTW actually marking CD's would take the fun out of it.  It would be like wrapping Christmas presents in clear paper.)

Today's find was a collection of downloaded photos from a few years ago.

I figured I owned you all after yesterdays Terrible Tuesday poetry jam.

Love the crystal clear water wave form shot! Not sure who the photographer is but it's got to be a pro.  Too much right with the shot.  Beautiful

Some where, some time, goin' off!  I had this as my desktop image for months, I had missed it and wanted a reminder of what I dope I was for not checking it.

My Mom and Dad used to bring me here to float in the water on my mat and look at the sea life with a mask and snorkel.  All my friends wanted to be a baseball player or a cowboy. I wanted to be marine biologist (with a mat). 

This was a small day but it held a good size swell.  I would have been a good mat wave  RIP Killer Dana.

If I close my eyes tight enough I might be able to transport myself  back to those days.  I still keep a red/blue in my trunk just in case they tear our the marina and I can go back and float there...

The Hawk was one stylish dude! I wish I had a picture of him in his gull wing Mercedes.

Dora was stylish too, lots of people stand on the nose, not so many stand on the nose like that.

Not that they look like this (actually this is really amazing) but few have Dora's Je ne sais quoi.

I'll end with another underwater shot. I can't get enough of this stuff.