/*23 Breaths: February 2013*/

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Signs of Spring

Popping up everywhere these days

still cold at night

depending on your definition of cold of course

but still


cold dry weather of


is giving way to


warm, moist

days of


Not a moment too soon,

'cause that's how Mother Nature rolls!


Surf forecast guessimate

small-ish, offshore-ish, still cold-ish

but quite fun if you know when and where to look

* / *

on another

Grateful note


is a series of Wednesday night concerts

put on by Bob Weir and friends

streaming to your location

via your ISI connection (intergalactic streaming internets)

Check out "Playing in the Band" at the link above


Monday, February 25, 2013

The devil winds

You know how it goes

You consult the charts

You make the call

You send the texts

then you go to bed

and pray for surf.

This particular Sunday

devil winds

had blown half the night

I knew that fortune was smiling

when the planets aligned

and my 20 minute trip to the beach

was reduced to 10 minutes

because I didn't stop at

a traffic light

the whole way.

The swell

a decent

3-4 feet

came in hot and at an angle

and did battle

with the morning

high tide.

Yes there were some screamers.

The locals

The big brown


preferred the rights

using the offshore winds

to suspend themselves

just inches above

the water.

But now

that it is

all said

and done.

There were no pictures

so it never really happened...

Thursday, February 21, 2013

More Paipo More Stokefest!

Sally and Cher

The drummer

My only complaint is that I never get to ride everything at these gatherings
(Yes I did ride the Pendo. You have to have priorities)

There is so much interesting stuff to check out

The variety is amazing

I didn't even get a chance to try the food tray!

"so many craft and so little time"

Then there is all the new and interesting people to meet

I mean look at them all!

But then look at all the neat surf craft!

I'll see you in the water

That's all for today check back for more later

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

It's Wednesday already?

I get a lot of folks with substantial surfing backgrounds that ask about surf mats.

They ask what they should know about riding them.

Is it like a paipo or a body board? (both yes and no is as close as I can give as an honest answer)

It takes awhile to get used to the differences.
Actually it takes "forever" which I view as a plus because you are always learning, which is half the fun!

Every go out has that possibility of being one of those magic moments you had when you were just starting to surf and you got a glimmer of how it works. Everything comes together (like magic) and you scream across a wall or sit deep inside a grinding tube.

Just one of those moments can keep a smile on your face for days.

After forty years of stand up surfing I was having fewer and fewer of those moments.

Since I switched over to the mats every go out has the potential to be epic!

Still going thru photos from the Paipo Stokefest I should have more posted up tomorrow.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Paipo Stokefest

The Paipo Stokefest went off on Sunday.

Great people, fun surf

Usual I write something

but as my wife says "A picture is worth a thousand words"

I could be that she took all the pictures...

But here is 10 or 20 thousand words worth

"Flotsam is floating wreckage of a ship or its cargo. Jetsam is part of a ship, its equipment, or its cargo that is purposefully cast overboard or jettisoned to lighten the load in time of distress and that sinks or is washed ashore."
I can only speak for myself...but in this case I ripped off the definition from Wikipedia...

Ken Samuels -The official photographer of the revolution

Everything you see or do is automatically digitized and uploaded to the Cloud

Best set of the day! I know because I was sitting too far inside :(

It turns out everything works! 

While every wave was painstakingly recorded in multiple state-of-the-art digital video and still shot formats, the beach is, after all, where it's at

Wood is good! 

The brain trust

Henry is a babe magnet! Or maybe it's the mats...

It rode ok but I heard it was hard to keep lit out in the lineup

There was a good crowd and this was before the food showed up!

This is just the beginning of the photos.

I promise to post more and even insert words here an there as soon as the morning coffee takes effect.

Check back through out the next couple of days for more!

Friday, February 15, 2013

Paipo Stokefest this Sunday!

SoCal can be difficult for the seasonally challenged

The weather is nice but it's difficult determining what month it is and what season we might be experiencing.

This coming weekend the weather will be beautiful

High temps, along the coast in the 70’s

Where in the solar cycle are we?

Since the bit of rain the local hills have a covering of green down.

Early Summer?

The local false pears are in full bloom, the false snow storm of their petals is just around the corner.

Early Spring?

Storms in the west Pacific and the Aleutians continue to provide occasional surf to west facing beaches.

Early Winter?

Don't turn on the Weather Channel or bother to look to the calendar.

Go outside

The buds on the trees are swelling and the birds are singing

They know the season

Driving to work
Past grass never meant to be walked on
Growing under trees that will never bare fruit
Life is like a leaf
Blown across the freeway
Trying to make it to the other side

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

cheaper than meth


Oh I love the way
you burn my lip
with that first
morning sip

I love the way
you start
my day
So early
before I have
anything to say

I love the way
you keep me going
long after the sleep
should be flowing

I even love that
little jiggle when
you make my hands
start to wiggle

and when my time
on earth is up
just hold on cause
I'll have just one more cup

* I love my coffee but someone pointed out to me once that it is merely a delivery device for the cream and mountain of sugar that I mix in, either way three cheers for the bean!

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Just good stuff

FEB 17 th 2013 at the Scripps Pier in La Jolla

The last one was a blast and this one is looking to be same

well attended too if Facebook can be trusted

It's about a month early for me to say that this is a "Spring" event

although in so many ways Spring is relitive

If you are in the southern hemisphere you are about to enter into Fall

If you are in the in the North Eastern part of the United States

you have spent the weekend hunkered down

waiting out another gnarly storm

this one with snow

But here in the Golden State

I'm beginning to see the signs

the buds on the trees

the birds in there mating garb

Spring in coming back around

Always a good time of renewal and rebirth

So stop on by if you are in town

share your stoke

share a wave

share a smile

These gatherings of the surf tribe

have no commercial potential

It's all just good stuff

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Back when I was where I want to be soon

I have gotten to that point in the year where I hibernate

Sure I still go to work, drink coffee and do the dishes

But for a few months I go to bed early and

curse the gods

for the funky conditions

that seem to exist on the weekends

which at the moment

is my only surf window.

To fill the void

I have been obsessing

about graphite guitar necks

go figure....

But I'm hoping that next weekend's Paipo Stokefest

gets me out of the man/pig/bear cave

and on the road

to spring

Monday, February 4, 2013

not this weekend but next

With my advanced grafics skills I have managed to cut off the bottom which reads

FEB 17 th 2013 at the Scripps Pier in La Jolla

That's a Sunday for all of you Calendar impaired

Saturday is the Groundswell Society event which you can read about if you follow the link

 Modern Oceanography and the Future of Surfing is the title of this years conference.

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Hair today gone tomorrow

I grew up in a beach town

with blue eyes

and blond hair

To say "my" hair

is really a reference to all our hair,

It seemed that everyone had some


on the same theme.

Bleached in the sun and

dried out in the salt water

We all had the same

bowl cut.

Except Farrah.


our hair

damaged beyond repair

would simply


Friday, February 1, 2013


Everyone's favorite harmless neighborhood eccentric is having a show tonight.

I'd go but unfortunately I live two tanks of gas and six cups of coffee to the south.

Too bad 'cause it looks like fun.

Details below. Check it out during your nocturnal wanderings.

Secret Message from Outer Space
Johnny’s Barbershop 247 Trescony St, Santa Cruz

Corner of Trescony and Mission- Hanging For the entire Month

Opening: First Friday February 1st. 7pm

Hello Everybody-
Johnny's Barbershop will host a First Friday Opening for a photo installation I am putting up in the shop. Please come join us. Friday February 1st, Johnny's Barbershop 247 Trescony St, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 (corner of Trescony and Mission Streets). 7-10pm.

See you on Friday!