/*23 Breaths: 2010*/

Friday, December 31, 2010

Crystal Voyager Echos Part 1 2 and 3

I this over at Quality Peoples the other day, it's great stuff!

You'll want to watch this full screen so click in the bottom right corner of the movie frame to move to full screen mode.
(the Esc key brings you back)

Part 1

Part Two

Part Three

I will hopefully be two surfed out to post for a few days so here's to a happy new year for us all!

Thursday, December 30, 2010


After the rain 
perfect waves
are toxic

Like a floating cloud
I give myself up
to the will of the wave

In the mirror
I shave
a stranger

right or left?
after the wave breaks
the choice is clear

all at once
the resin sets up
oh crap!

Like its been arraigned
not a drop out of place

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Bad poetry for a rainy day

So flat
I must surf
The internet

Morning chill
the wind blows
straight offshore

Surfing with a crowd
two fish
and a seagull

Can't make the left
or the right
I let this one go

After surf
opening the car
with numb fingers

* I don't adhere to the 5-7-5 convention so don't bother counting

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

little changes

Email from 23B PNW corespondent chiledub

I grabbed this pic off the internet
this morning from Hampton, NH.  23 degree air temp, 39
degree water, 7' with 8 MPH off-shore.  Definitely
would require a couple of extra breaths in the mat.

little changes
make me think that
things are turning for the better

like a long fall exhale
and a pause
before a long spring inhale

Monday, December 27, 2010

mid winter

Let me just get my mat out of the car!

Christmas's is over

everything is on sale for 50 percent off

and nothing but new year's

stands between us

and the oblivion

that is mid winter


Saturday, December 25, 2010

pancakes and longboarding

JJ called me yesterday morning to say the sun was out and the tribe was gather for the pre Christmas ritual of pancakes and longboarding 

Jon had brought his latest hull and quill fin to show and to share

Steve attracted to the scent of a new blade

Hull aficionado Jdub was already suited up so he grabbed the hull and headed outside 

A quick "check it out" at the shore line

It was a good day!

Friday, December 24, 2010

Surf Shots from the Salish Sea

... a Mat Clown, sixty years young, with vim and vigor restored, basks in the" Sea of Delusional Love. " Salish Sea region. Photo by Bagjuan.

This particular delusion will make you feel like a better person. Can I get a witness?!

Thanks to the PNW mat crew for photos and content.

Thursday, December 23, 2010


Warren Pfeiffer gets in early with his big UDT's in anticipation of a fun run through a delightful wave of Christmas Cheer.   Photo by Les Wilson

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Riders on the Storm

Portland how do you do it?

After less than a week a week of rain, I'm done.

Bring back the dry desert winds, the palm trees, the "summer in December"

If it's not 80 degrees, windy with zero humidity, it's not Christmas!

It's not the conditions as much as the combination of driving in the dark and the wet in LA

(The dark and the wet in LA is my new rockband)

Speaking of new rock bands I am toying with the idea of  renaming 23B.

Something like

Capture that Delusional Love ...

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Twofer Tuesday

First, something for everyone who drove in this morning

In SoCal this is a scary proposition, not necessarily because of the rain but because people here seem to have no other response to any new condition but to DRIVE FASTER!

Next, the solistice was last night, along with a full moon eclipse.

None of which I could properly celibrate because of the clouds, rain and general funk

Starting today the daylight hours get longer (in the northern hemisphere)!

So with New Year's feathering like a clean-up set on the horizon,

everyone here at 23B (that would be me)

wishes you and yours a pleasant holiday season and a happy new year!

Monday, December 20, 2010

They call it stormy Monday

but Tuesday's just as bad

No you didn't skip your meds this 23B post is a repeat. Or as we like to call it a golden oldie posted January 10, 2010, with me kibitzing in yellow.

So there have been some waves locally,  disasters internationally and rain predicted thru the end of the week.
(yea I haven't really checked yet but I think this will stand-up, if you pardon the expression)

But let's focus on the positive.

Really fine work over at Nine Lights surfboards
Check out the details and the rest of the pictures here.

(good work is still a beautiful thing)

There is a review of every swim fin known to man or woman over at
SurfMatters this morning.

(still worth a read)

I did manage to get some good ones over the last week or so. (not)

My favorite local overly polluted river mouth had been walled up,  too high tidy and just plain funky for days.
But on the second check of the morning, the tide, swell and stars aligned and "Poo Bar" (you know you surf the wrong places when bathymetric features have the prefix "poo" ) became "Poo Point" an for a little while I got  some of the longest rights I have ridden in ages.
(I only wish this part was true, some Poo Bar is looking good about now, although the runoff is incredible!)
The nice thing about long steep waves of a decent size, is that on a mat you just seem to go faster and faster.
No down shifting, side sliding, stay in the pocket on these waves.
Just full bore,
"let's open it up and see what his puppy can do"
"oh please let me make this next section and I promise I'll stop sinning"
speed runs down the line.

Pure and Simple
I almost drown
Good Times!

A new found thing ripped from the pages of  Lost, Stolen or Ripped off

I have no idea who what or where but it looks nice!

We started a Christmas tradition around here a few years ago and it's worked out well enough to share. If it's not done by the Monday before Christmas it's not going to get done. (there are a few exceptions but they mostly involve shopping for vegetables)  So to the extent that you can try to relax and flow through the next few days (apart from the Wild Winter Solstice Celebration tomorrow), try to hold on to a little bit of the Spirit of the Holidays.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Worm wrangling

So we have had rain for the last several days

No surf but the wife and I have had our hands full rescuing earthworms

The little wigglers get washed into the gutters by the dozens

We come along and pluck them from a watery grave and relocate them to our compost heap.

Worm wrangling is lots of fun.

I could see myself as a worm rancher in my golden years

Too bad so few survive the branding process!

Friday, December 17, 2010

Building an Arc

I have been nervously checking the weather reports
and working on the arc.

Mark sent over some more mat pics.

Rasta, what a lucky pup!

Photos by Hilton Dawe
Daniel Thomson in the second shot.

Nice piece on RK and the Yard Possums show over on the garage sale project

I found that surfing through the harmless neighborhood eccentric blog,  no shortage of goodness there.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Rain and Mat Giveaway!

As I mentioned in a previous post SoCal is expecting rain.  Since this is the beginning of the storm season I wanted to include a link to water quality reports.

OC Beach Info

Surfrider Foundation Water Quality Page

Basically the story is this, any rains collect whatever has been sitting in the local streets and delivers it into the ocean.

This is my local spot,  the sand comes down the river and makes for nice sandbars. The river is over 110 miles long and drains a watershed of 2,650 square miles. I love it dearly, but it's a sewer mouth.

The standard recommendation is avoid ocean water contact for 72 hours after a rain.

Everyone I know who scoffs at this advise has three arms and points to the paddling advantage.

Mark Thomson sent me this link to an article on surf mats.   Part of the article is a contest based on "a photo of yourself on the most ridiculous inflatable craft".  If any of you are not on Santa's "good list", you know who you are, there is still a chance to get a new mat!  Good Luck!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Winter is coming

Winter is coming
the days grown short
will start to lengthen again

My time in the sun has shrunk
to an all too brief lunch
spent walking in the out-of-doors
reminding myself that the sun still exists

exercise is difficult
the aches and pains grow sharp
how did my breath get so short?

time to take a load off
sit by the fire
and listen to the rain  

One more thing,

Todays image is the cover of Matt Beard's new book Eureka - Finding California

a collection short stories and outstanding art work.

I can hardly wait!

Check the details at his site here

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Weather Wise

After a couple of  beautiful summer days,

in the middle of December,

Weather Wise, things are about to change

The next storm

or series of storms

is on its way

You have to take more of a global view of these things

The image above shows that the water that falls on my garden

over the next ten days

is, right now, just off the Kona coast.

Ah yes, the pineapple express!

Here in SoCal,

it will be a warm storm

with snow at only the higher elevations

but probably enough rain

for the car driving population

to take this opportunity

to dash out for a last minute Christmas present

and crash the car.

Drive safely.

Monday, December 13, 2010

Bloom County

Although it took two days, JJ and I finally got some surf this weekend.

On Saturday we had hopes of brisk offshores grooming some leftover swell to perfection.

What we got was fog, side shore winds, high tide and smallness.

Our preferences didn't match up with reality

Sort of like my lawn

What I would like is a totally retro fit to California native plants.

Virtually no upkeep and beautiful flowers and foliage.

What I have is a 50's left over of non native grasses and a pleatura of weeds

But what is a weed but something you would prefer not to have growing in the garden?

Upon taking a closer look you might find an incredible creation so well designed that it will not only outlast me personally by probably the whole of mankind. 

So your approach seems to have quite the effect on your perception.

Take another flower example

A vine know locally as honeysuckle. Left on it's own, it may take over your shed or even your house if you aren't careful. But the flowers each hold a single drop of delicious nectar. Any elementary school child can spend an hour plucking the flowers, tearing the back off the flower and sucking the nectar like some sort of giant humming bird.

So back to the surf on Sunday.

My only expectation was that it wouldn't be any good at all.

I was greeted by mild off shore winds, crisp clear weather and 2-3 foot peelers.

It looked perfect to me.

Two hours later I'm sitting in the warmth of an unseasonable SoCal heat wave feeling waves of endorphins crashing over my cerebellum.

It was a good day.

Check out my latest piece on The Inertia with the accompanying shoot of SurfSister

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Mission accomplished

It's a beautiful thing

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Rumor has it...

Photo by John Severson

The coconut wireless is filled with news about the new swell.

I not sure if it a size thing or a swell quality deal or if has just been so long since I have gotten wet but I am really looking forward to my next surf.

We are hopefully exiting that slack time where the predominate swell source switches from southern hemisphere to the northern hemisphere. When you add that lull to a few weeks or months to get the winds sorted out and the morning high tides to turn more favorable it adds up to a dry spell.  I know its been awhile since I've gotten in the water.

A wet dripping wetsuit, hung up after a good session is a beautiful thing.

At this point my suit has those big wrinkles in it that come from being too dry too long.

(He wrinkles in my birthday suit, well that's another matter)

I still have to wait for the weekend but if it's over knee high I'm on it!

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

John Lennon 1940-1980

Normally I prefer a remembrance on a birthday instead of the anniversary of a death.

It seems like it has a more positive vibe instead of one filled with such finality.

But like Fraser Smith, the morning disc jockey I was listening to when the story broke, said

"I'm gonna play music because I just can't think of anything funny to say"

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

When will it be good*

*on the weekend

Since I am very fortunate to have a job I surf the weekends

I have to make do with a surf schedule that revolves around the my arbitrary days off.

It may be ten foot and offshore on Monday after weeks of flatness but when the bell rings I head to the office.

So I have gained an interest in the forecasts.

Apparently with the latest Surfer website redo WaveWatch is gone, at least temporarily.

It had a decent graphical display of the next 5 days of swell activity.

I liked the way in the "expert view" you could see which swells were waning and waxing.

It was the only thing I consistently looked at SurferMag.

The site is such a mash up of streaming ad content it's hard to look at.

Fortunately for me there is SOLSPOT which meets my needs for a surf forecast quite nicely.

That and Mr. Wright draws pretty pictures

I have no idea what they mean but I assume it is part of the meteorological kung fu that brings us waves.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Start the music it's Christmas Time again!

Picked up our Christmas tree over the weekend

maybe the only time I use surf racks all year!

I have the recipe for the Christmas tree water from last year if you are interested

I did a Christmas Gift post last year too, you may want to check that out

So as we start counting down the days 'till Christmas, I want to encourage all of you to detach yourself from the incredible marketing push that has taken over the holidays.

Just for a little while.

No you will still have to get gifts for everyone you have ever known (oh and while we are on that topic my waist has swollen to 34 inches so you may want to write that down for later).

What I  am suggesting is that you find something about the holiday (whichever one you celebrate is fine by me) and marvel at it.

Find the beauty and the miracle in it.

Because just like variable inflation there is a miracle in everything.

You just have to pay attention.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Adventure Today - the last show of the season :(


Opening Reception for Shelter Crew members Brian, Windy and Jonas begins Saturday December 4th and will feature the adventurous and cool photography and visual interest created by the folks that Tend to Shelter while Graham is away.

The Dogzilla Food Truck will be parked out back to serve their tasty Hot Dog Treats and the neighbors, 4th Street Vine, will be opening up the bar to serve beer and wine out back.

This will be our last art show of the year so come on out for Art, DJs, Drinks and Dogs!

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Like a Rolling Stone

Internet problems this morning

So no post this morning

I heard this on the radio on the drive in

Good song

Wednesday, December 1, 2010


Clear, clean and flat!

But check it out, that pelican has four legs!

A fun piece by Alexander Haro on things to do when it's flat over at The Inertia this morning

After studying the local water fowl for abnormalities I like to kick back and watch a nice surf movie clip

Here's one now

FIBERGLASS AND MEGAPIXELS • Trailer from Sandy Beach Productions on Vimeo.

If you are looking for something a little longer

Stoked and Broke is now out on DVD!

Grab the kids! Find the car keys!!

We are driving to the internets to do some Christmas shopping!

PS I have obtained certain information from unimpeachable sources
(no not wikileaks.org)
that the surf will pick up to two feet by Sunday!

My magic eight ball is quite reliable about these things

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Leslie Nielsen

The Airplane! movie, the Naked gun movies

Great American comedy

Nielsen was a master of the deadpan delivery.

The whole crew was great,  the writing stands up over time and is really funny.

"Bad day to stop sniffin glue"

Too many sight gags to mention

the "Don't call me Shirley" bit

I laughed all the way thru the 70's at this stuff

(there was nothing else to due the music was disco)

Monday, November 29, 2010

I'm Done

I uttered these words  after tearing out most of the old summer / fall garden over the long weekend.
Not much surf on tap and with gardening you have to complete some things before you start on others.

But then, it occurred to me that I wasn't really "done"

That the work I had just completed was merely a point in a circle.

I will plant a Winter garden  (yea for SoCal and our mild winters)
Then it would be time to turn that into mulch and plant for the Spring
and then repeat the process for Summer
Which will lead me back to tearing out the summer garden again.

So many of the things we do are cyclical but we seem to thing of them as linear.

Surfing is like that

you paddle out

you catch a wave in

you paddle back out

That certain seems cyclical
You repeat those cyclical surf days over and over
cyclical  again

When someone asks you how long you have surfed, do you reply with how many seasons?

"Well I'm finishing up with my forty-eighth cycle! I start number forty-nine next Summer!"

No I don't either, but maybe it would be more accurate if we did.

Something to ponder on a Monday.

Have a circular day!

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Communique from the Great NW

When we last heard from our intrepid GNW correspondents, bagquan and chiledub, they were clowning around amongst the trees enjoying the sunshine enjoying mat quivers that would make a strong man quiver with longing. 

But there was a chill in the evening air and things were about to turn damp.

Wind Speed 17.5 kts
Wind Gust 23.3 kts
Wave Height 5.2 ft
Dominant Wave Period 5 sec
Air Temperature 32.0 °F
Water Temperature 49.8 °F
Wind Chill 19.9 °F 

Given the nature of the nature it was decided that a feast was called for.

It seems that many native mushrooms were gather to augment the humble repast   

If those are turkey dogs you are well within the Thanksgiving Day Dinner parameters.
The bread qualifies as stuffing, the corn or maize is a time honored side dish and McD's ketchup is a suitable substitute for cranberry sauce. At least it's from the red end of the color spectrum and that is close enough for 23B.

I will send you some of the 60 and 70 degree day time temperatures if you could send some of your swell in this direction.

PPS You can keep the wind, we have our own.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Post Turkey Trama


You ate your Tofurky feast

You recovered enough to make it to the mall (against my advice)

You bought some new 52"* electronic state of the art thingy

on sale for a buck ninety eight

Now comes the real fun Sliding downhill on the cardboard box it came in!


 Now watch the ladies git er done


 *measured diagonally

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Happy Thanksgiving from HQ!

For Zen students a weed is a treasure. With this attitude, whatever you do, life becomes an art. ~ Shunryu Suzuki

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Stairway to Heaven

As the Thanksgiving workweek winds down I wanted to pass along a few random thoughts

This particular holiday is not about


Gravy - we are just crazy enough to have a holiday that celebrates gravy but the marketing people at swanson's just haven't gotten it together yet (sitting around watching MadMen reruns I suspect)

Stuffing - Not a big fan really, although I know some of you love the stuff.  I'd really rather just have the bread back and you can keep the mystery liquid that meddles it all together. While we are talking stuffing, if you didn't hide it in the bird you wouldn't have to overcook the turkey in order to make sure the stuffing is "done" and you wouldn't need the gravy to give some life to an overcooked dried out turkey.

the "Trimmings" - Imagine for a moment you are a food stuff, something delicious like brussel sprouts or a pie or something. Your whole life focused on being a great dish only to be lumped in with everything else as "the trimmings".  It's a bummer to be you man.

The holiday is also not about getting up in the middle of the night to stand in the cold out side some store in hopes of getting a dollar ninety eight 42 inch flat screen.

What is wrong with you people!

If you are getting up that early and to be cold to boot you better be going surfing.

And it better be good!

You understand that in SoCal the chances that you will be trampled at the pre dawn beach are probably just as good as being trampled at Walmart

but I digress.

You may have guessed at the beginning of this that I was heading to the "thanks" part of Thanksgiving.

And right you are.

Be thankful!

For what is up to each person to decide for themselves.

Take some time and repeat the practice as often as you need to.

I'll start.

I have a job

Now employment can be many things, for me, after being unemployed for over two years it means I can help provide a greater degree of economic stability for my family.

For that I'm truly thankful.

True I'm still too broke to get a new mat.

Even if they are on sale .

(I read some great stuff on the UK Mat Surfers site about guys having Paul make a 70/70 standard and then applying their own traction)

And the replacement for my Neumatic pranaglider is also quite a ways off in my financial future.

But as my wife is fond of pointing out.

I can only ride one mat at a time and I already have two.

So I'm thankful for that.

So it time for you to play the home game.

What are you thankful for?

I'll give you something

Here is some Frank Zappa!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Notes before the holiday

I just got this in the electro mail

Drew Kampion has revised, redone and replenished his website.

I am a huge fan of his writing so I am anxiously awaiting his latest project

It's due out in the spring and I could actually see myself standing in line for this one.

On other fronts,

waiting for a fast moving low to pass by and sprinkle us with, well sprinkles.

After that its the usual fall high pressure thru the weekend .

Surf wise it looks like leftovers all week.

Maybe something new on Sunday but don't tell anyone. 

As always mataroos, keep your mats, fins and wetsuits in the trunk in case grandma lives by the beach and you can score a session between the pie and the shopping.