/*23 Breaths: July 2014*/

Tuesday, July 29, 2014


This is a post from a while back
About the cold
About Winter

So as you sweat and swelter thru today
Remember the Winter
Winters past
Winters future

Hot and Cold
just labels
on facets
no difference


It's winter time in the northern hemisphere.

It’s cold outside.
It’s windy
the surf is getting worse
and I’m putting on a cold still wet wetsuit

I wrote that last winter.
I didn't date that comment in my journal
Probably around January.

Booties and the legs of your full suit never seem to dry completely
from one go out to the next
for about three months

"Take long walks in stormy weather or through deep snows in the fields and wood, if you would keep your spirits up. Deal with brute nature. Be cold and hungry and weary"

Henry David Thoreau

Even though I live in sunny Southern California winter sea temps are in the mid 50's and when you add the wind chill factor it’s a tad chilly for me.

You when you look at the conditions our northern brothers and sisters deal with on a regular basis I am the first to admit I have it easy and warm.
The point is, we all have a relationship with the cold.

What's yours?

Do you ignore it? Hide from it? Complain? Joke about it?

It doesn't seem to matter how cold. It's relative cold. 

If it was 20 degrees out, I wouldn't leave the house. 

But in the same temperatures, the Nova Scotia surf crew would be skipping to the beach, in shorts.

(OK maybe skipping is an over dramatization but you get the idea)

The point being that it is all in your head.

One of very few things you actually have some control of (exercising that control is another thing).

Think about that the next time you are in the parking lot putting on a damp full suit and wet smelly booties.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Giant Blockbuster End of Summer Sale

The "end of summer"

are there any sadder words?

Even though I'm more of a Fall guy these days

The images that the word Summer brings forth are still very powerful

Plants that were once in full bloom now heavy with fruit.

The earth combines the rains (?) from last Winter with the solar radiation from the Sun that really powers this whole terrestrial show (despite what the oil companies would have you think)

The beach in all it's early morning glassy splendor.

South swell with a touch of NW producing empty A frame peaks up and down the beach, beckoning you to finish your coffee, pull on a rash guard, wax up and paddle out...


Thursday, July 17, 2014

What The Sea Gives Me

The movie premieres on Saturday as part of the Best of the Fest program at the Sherwood Auditorium

Morgan and I got a sneak peak the other evening

A link and a password from a friend who wanted to share the experience.

That is really the theme for the film so let me explain.

If you are reading this chances are you have some connection with the water

It won't be my relationship, it will be uniquely your own.

WTSGM - is a series of stories, about water people who share their relationship with the sea.

 ** Warning if you are expecting the usual thrash and burn surf flick, with snapped tri-fins during a close heat at some blown out beach break, this may not be the movie for you.

This is a movie for anyone who has an appreciation for the unique qualities that make up their lives and the self awareness to examine what the sea gives each of us.

The sort of thing we have come to expect from Pierce, Petra and The Misfits, another great movie in what will be a long line of  "surf movies for the rest of us".

Go see it when it comes around or buy a copy.

Watch it, think about it and share it with your friends.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

The Heart of Summer

While it's true that I prefer the Fall

Summer does have a lot going on

Liquid Salt - Glenn's labor to bring real surfing to real surfers

Release 2.0 is here! Check it out

Beautiful content with a focus on surfers surfing...

men, women, short boards, long boards, Paipos, handplanes

they even have mats

so you know it's good!

This Saturday the planets align

and there will be gatherings up and down the coast

Saturday July 19 is the world premier of PMK's

What the Sea Gives Me

What The Sea Gives Me from misfit pictures on Vimeo.

 It's actual the screen as a part of a group of videos at the Sherwood in La Jolla

Earlier that morning will be a Paipofest

A large coffee and a scone as big as my head and I'm going...

Enjoy the Summer

Monday, July 7, 2014

Happy Daze after the Fourth

The 4th is always the high water mark of the summer beach season

Of course it's still warm

The Tour just started

and we will have

may hot days ahead of us

but for me

Labor Day (September 1)

the official unofficial end of Summer

that first day of the new school year

or even the Autumnal Equinox (September 22)

are mere formalities

With the passing of the Summer Solstice (June 21)

the days have been growing shorter

and with it begins

the long slow slide

exhaling into Fall and Winter

The beaches clear out

the water is still warm

the swell direction begins to shift

I love the Autumn!

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

other things to do

For some reason
at the height of a state wide drought
we here in our little almost seaside hamlet
still throw "safe and Insane" fireworks
into the mix on another one of the summer time
drinking holidays

I for one will be
avoiding the crush at the beach
and just stay home
to get an eye on my roof
while Fluffy patrols the perimeter

The swell is supposed to hit on Saturday anyway

and I have other things to do

A particular good one over at The Electric Sunshine today...