eight foot oh

The eight foot board realm is an interesting one.

Not a short board
but not a long board
at the same time
being both.

Not to say it can't be surfed like either,
and circumstances may dictate that it is.

But there is a soulful envelope
the 8'ers fit into
that is unique.

Not picking off every ripple outside,
but gracefully riding with the wave
in a thoughtfully aware sort of way.
Enjoying the ride to the fullest
but being careful not to damage the wave
in the process.

Every surfer should surf a quiver,
(I had "own" in place of "surf" in the sentence above
but owning a quiver and surfing a quiver are two
different things, as we all know)

and the mid-range lengths are perhaps one of the
sub categories most deserving of extensive exploration.

And in most cases, they'll still fit in the car without racks!

Examples can be anything,
from fun board beaters you teach someone to surf on
or a life and death gun
that makes you nervous to contemplate.

The seven foot range are maybe next most comprehensive category.

Six footers and below have,
due to mass alone,
a narrower band of purpose
and are usually shaped for one
delightfully specific use.

The same with the nine foot and up group.

There are exceptions,
cross all boundaries, defy labels
and are beholden only to themselves.

But then,
they are magic,
and are truly,
gifts from beyond.

Certainly an eight oh would make the perfect
"stuck on a deserted island" board.

Of course, a mat would be better, but hey, aren't they always. ;)

This morning's post was obviously inspired by SurfSis' new board, check it out.

(BTW, M you are getting close to getting an intervention,
well probably not, mostly because I'm always checking to see what's next)

Speaking of what's next.

Mat-A-Palooza is still on hold
does see something for the next two weekends
in his crystal ball.

So read the reports,
consult your calendars, PDA's, Ouija boards, or whatever
and get back to me about your preferences.

PS - on the book table this morning are
Jim Harrison - The shape of the Journey, new and collected poems
Ken Carey - Flat Rock Journal, a day in the Ozark Mountains


Surfsister said…
Intervention? LOL!! Well, truthfully, I think I won't be able to surf some of my boards if I don't gain any more range of motion. That's one of the reasons why I jumped on this board. I'm already thinking I may have to eliminate the boards in the 7 foot range. And hey, it's a Paul Gross hull. I couldn't pass it up

What's the board pictured in your post? Sweet!
Quiver said…
I've always found the mid-range boards a no man's land of surfing. To big to duckdive, to small to outrun the bigger waves. I have memories of getting hit by more waves than I rode.

One day in Santa Barbara, home of the wide open channels to paddle through, I saw a guy on a mid-length board get a great ride, smooth in his movments, critical in his positioning.

A friend had a go anywhere board that most would consider a "fun board" at 6'10" and a bit chunky. He rode small waves, he rode double overhead+ waves, he rode the same board every time until the board fell apart.
pranaglider said…
Not my board in the post but I do have something similar from Jim Phillips.


Thanks for the story. You are right maybe it's an acquired taste but they can be fun!

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