Scored some of the new swell

 

I finally scored this morning
A new spot I am calling Pillsbury Point.
Today was a solid 10-15 with bigger sets.  I would tell you where it is but then I would have to poke you in the stomach with my finger.

The point is ruled with an soft white buttery hand but an iron fist by a bunch of toughs that call themselves the "dough boys".

Actually nice guys once you get to know them.  They have an bad boy image due to crankiness caused by exposure to the heavily polluted waters of the point and the chronic yeast infections that result.  I could see Tom Wolfe doing an expose on these guys.   Pictures are hard to come by but here is a snap I wanted to share.




Comments

Speedshaper said…
Yeah, but if you get two swells, it kinda gets croissanted up.
Anonymous said…
"If you don't live here, Don't Souffle' here!"
pranaglider said…
I was at the surf contest in Huntington when they had an oil spill...butter was everywhere!

Popular Posts