/*23 Breaths: Retro? No Bro!*/

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Retro? No Bro!




I am goin' scream if I keep having the same conversation out in the water.

It starts more or less like this.

"Goin' retro with a mat?"

or

"Goin' really old school with the surfmat!"

The reason I think these comments are odd is that I that today's surfmats are the most progressive of a long line of surf vehicles.

I have to explain that with a mat you can reshape your vehicle as needed to meet the changing shape of the wave.

Gotta love it!

Or to put it another way

"To surf free friction, or fin free, primarily forces the surfer back to the core. It is an act of homage to thousands of years of wave riding. It’s a return to an unpredictable wild side in a sea of conservatism. It is a test of composure in delivering the upper hand to nature. Most of all though it’s just a frontier feeling of being untethered and unguided that brings fun to the fore. And fun IS the key."

Derek Hynd


(BTW that's not me above)

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I love it when they say
"Wow, you don't see any of those around these days!"

My stock answer is,

"You obviously don't surf here much, do you?"