They call it stormy monday

but Tuesday's just as bad

So there have been some waves locally,  disasters internationally and rain predicted thru the end of the week.

But let's focus on the positive.

Really fine work over at Nine Lights surfboards

Check out the details and the rest of the pictures here.

There is a review of every swim fin known to man or woman over at

SurfMatters this morning.

I did manage to get some good ones over the last week or so.

My favorite local overly polluted river mouth had been walled up,  too high tidy and just plain funky for days.
But on the second check of the morning, the tide, swell and stars aligned and "Poo Bar" (you know you surf the wrong places when bathymetric features have the prefix "poo" ) became "Poo Point" an for a little while I got  some of the longest rights I have ridden in ages.
The nice thing about long steep waves of a decent size, is that on a mat you just seem to go faster and faster.
No down shifting, side sliding, stay in the pocket on these waves.
Just full bore,
"let's open it up and see what his puppy can do"
"oh please let me make this next section and I promise I'll stop sinning"
speed runs down the line.

Pure and Simple

I almost drown

Good Times!


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