/*23 Breaths: So here we are again*/

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

So here we are again

After yesterdays blog post,  new year's opener, blowout I'm just sitting back and waiting for the offers to start rolling in.

hmmmm, still waiting...

any time now...

so anyways, two guys walk into a bar ...

Harp music here denoting dream sequence

If you have been playing along with the home game of 23Breaths

you know I have been looking at my current quiver of fiberglass encrusted surfboards with new eyes.

Not to ever abandon riding the mat, that would be like giving up the Ferrari















to drive the Renault Dauphine.

(BTW I actually like the Dauphine so save the hate mail for later in the post)

But I have been sampling the long and the mid range boards,  when time and tide permit, with some degree of success.



















Ladies and Gentlemen, Mr. Miki Dora!

Most of todays long boards are vastly different that the boards of yore.
The blanks have changed (more than once!),
the resin and glass are different,
fins actually flex in a manner to increase performance!
Rails and rocker are radically different than the old boards
(I know some of you ride boards that are as close to the old ones as possible, I think you guys are nuts but I totally support you and your chosen surf crafts of choice!)

While long boards have a place in everyones quiver,
there was a reason everyone was so excited about the short board revolution in the sixties.

At the time it was all about "Involvement".

















Riding the wave and not the board.

But that said, it's still fun.


David Nuuhiwa having fun during a contest in the 60's.


So I will continue to scrounge around in the quiver for interesting riders.

Expect some more reports once the new big swell arrives!

Hopefully the morning air temps will warm up.

Colder than a well diggers shovel out there!

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