Learning to surf
Greenough photo by Harold Ward
I was tasked with teaching someone to surf the other day
I have to say it took me a while to find a place to start
- ocean swimming
- finding waves
- catching waves
- standing up
All of these basic topics take awhile to discuss and much longer to learn
I'm truly amazed that anyone surfs at all
And even though these items begin to cover the basic physical act of surfing there are maybe a thousand more items to know
- don't let your attention drift from the waves
- don't take off in front of someone else
- where do the wind and waves come from
- why does the tide change
In the end, I threw them a mat and their surfing experience took off like a house on fire
(No not my "good" mat)
But still so much to know
So if you have started someone on the surfing path,
what pearls of wisdom did you imparted to them?
Let me know in the comments section
Down erupting calm he falls
but what breath has put him there?
(the above is a snippet of a poem by Drew Kampion that was published in Surfer during the late 60's early 70's. My apologies to Mr. Kampion for what is, no doubt, an inaccurate quote of his work.
I just can't find the issue it's in without tearing my house apart and waking the kids up.
It's a beautiful poem
If anyone has the complete and accurate text at hand please let me know)