*Forecasts call for offshore winds over the weekend so if I'm late go ahead and start the party without me.
If there is wind and if I do make it to the Shelter event (I'm a well known recluse, although being "well known" and a "recluse" do seem to be at cross purposes don't they? ), and so if I am not be able to lift my arms due to the fatigue from paddling lets just suspend the normal hand shaking, chest bumping "bro greetings" normal associated with meeting people at social events. Kay? Also I would expect, given the wind forecast, that there will be SIGNIFICANT NASAL DRAINAGE** from the sudden and unexpected conclusion of waves in the "tube", "cover up" and "sick barrel" riding position, so anyone down slope from the drainage site should be forewarned.
When the following picture arrived at the massive 23B office complex the other day it was brought to me on a silver platter, the normal protocol for all the photo submissions.
The 11 by 14 transparency lay on the huge light table I use as a work desk. To further set the tone, I might also point out that my absurdly large corner "CEO" office swallows the normal office furnishings and I have had to include an entire Wahoos Fish Taco store, with staff, to fill up the space.
But we had bigger fish to fry, so to speak, because fish are never fried here at 23Breaths but coaxed to culinary perfection through a top secret grilling process.
"It's an obvious fake" I said after studying the image for no more than a few seconds.
The staff let out a collective sigh of fear and loathing not heard this side of the inland empire in ages.
"I can't go right to save my life" I said, the staff looked around nervously making that nervous humming sound they make when I have blown their little collective mind with some new cosmic revelation. They all worship the very ground I walk on , its all very charming in a naive sort of way, and the very thought that I might have some slight imperfection is such a foreign thought that they were stunned into a collective lump of inanimate humanity.
After a few moments, my wife walked in, looked at me with, well you know, THE LOOK and without a word flipped the transparency over revealing a here-to-fore undiscovered image of me going left, probably from last years mat meet.
Sadly I don't remember the wave, the day or most of last year for that matter.
The staff was enormously relieved and were able to crank out another edition of 23B before heading home to live there lives out in quiet desperation.
Five Summer Stories came out just a couple of years (1972) after Pacific Vibrations (1970) and although some of the footage was shot during the same Hawaiian winters you can see advancements being made in rail and rocker designs. While the pin tails are still a little sticky off the top they were riding in the tube just fine. (I think they were thinning out the tails a little more) You can also see a surf mat about 50 seconds in during the babies, dogs and bikini shots.
The Five Summer Stories used local band HONK do the sound track, which did well commercially and you can still see the band play live.
As I have mentioned before Pacific Vibrations, was for me THE surf film, followed closely by Five Summer Stories.
At least part of the reason was that, I was and still am a huge Jock Sutherland fan. Switch stance at Waimea Bay, side slipping thru head high Pipeline and charging Outside Pipe.
It may look tame by todays standards. Long boards had just been replaced as the standard wave vehicle. The Cosmic Guns used in the movie were brand new. Shapers were just feeling out the advantages of more rocker, down rails and fin shape and placement. Design ideas were dreamt up late Saturday night, boards were shaped Sunday morning, glassed Sunday afternoon and ridden on the increasing swell on Monday. The may have been broken by that afternoon and replaced on Tuesday with a host of changes, some were advancements and some of which were just smoke dreams.
This morning before the rest of the storm rolled in. Not enough water to be fun but enough wind to blow it out
Back's on the mend - check (Thank you Ramsnake and Michelle!)
Weekend's here - check
Looks like rain - check
This is a you tube clip of the yoga that has been helping my back
The whole practice is 30 minutes so if this looks like something you could do the DVD's are available all the places DVD's are available.
From their website
Gary Kraftsow began sharing the teachings of yoga and yoga therapy as Maui Yoga Therapy in 1983. It has since then grown into an international community of yoga professional educated by Gary Kraftsow in the spirit of Viniyoga ™, and inspired by the teachings of T.K.V. Desikachar and T. Krishnamacharya.
Not as aerobic as Ashtanga, perhaps more therapeutic than most Hatha yoga packaged up and sold to American consumers of exercise routines. This is the real deal. Viniyoga starts where you are and then goes on from there.
I used to snark, somewhat, at this approach and think "yea I can do that when I'm like really old". (hmm what's that bell tolling?) When I was working less, surfing more and doing more yoga I didn't need this approach. It has since dawned on me that since I would usually practice before I surfed that no surf also meant no yoga! Fail! So here I am somewhat older and hopefully somewhat wiser.
I've been thinking about organizing another Mat Meet this summer.
The idea of having multiple mat gatherings up and down the coast has been thrown out there and I think it has merit. When we just have one day we always miss a bunch of people who would love to attend but can't because the date we pick just doesn't work.
So I am looking for comments, options, feedback and most importantly assistance from any of you so inclined.
Do YOU have WHAT IT TAKES to be a bona fide MAT MEET ORGANIZER?
Do you have intimate knowledge of a local spot that breaks during the summer and would make a good "mat wave"? (I have no idea what a good "mat wave" is BTW, but you should)
Does said spot have parking, dining facilities, bathrooms, and accommodations for matters that want to make a weekend out of it?
Will your spot accommodate a medium sized influx of non local matters? (perhaps the best flash crowd ever!) who are these guys???
Can you, through the power of will and mind alone, cause the seas to rise, the wind to quit and the sun to shine?
Oddly enough surfing ability or prior mat experience doesn't matter a wit!
I am going to be doing some pre work yoga shortly so my 5-6am blog post development time is going to be cut short.
But I read a couple of great pieces that I wanted to point you towards
Head High and Glassy, who always writes good stuff while whittling away foam to make great shred sleds has some interesting observations on the present state of surfboards, very interesting, don't miss it.
Kyle Lightner is back in town, from an extended stay at the edge.
So much good stuff there its hard to pick one but
if you haven't seen the surf badger video, now it the time
I won't embed it here but if you go to his site search for
As many of you know, the venerable Frog House surf shop, is in a bit of a zoning dispute with the city of Newport Beach, even though the shop has been in the same location since 1962.
There will be a hearing meeting of the planing commission this Thursday (see below) to decide the matter.
PLANNING COMMISSION AGENDA CITY OF NEWPORT BEACH COUNCIL CHAMBERS - 3300 NEWPORT BOULEVARD Thursday, April 7, 2011 Regular Meeting - 6:30 p.m West Newport Amendments (PA2010-182, 190, and PA2011-014) 6904, 6908-6936, and 6480 West Coast Highway SUMMARY: Amendments to the General Plan, Coastal Land Use Plan and Zoning Map to change the designations of three properties from Two-Unit Residential (RT and RTE) to Visitor Serving Commercial (CV) or Mixed Use-Vertical (MU-V) land use designations. The amendments were initiated by the property owners who are seeking to continue the existing nonconforming commercial use of their properties. All three properties are currently developed with commercial and mixed use buildings, and no new land use or development is proposed at this time.
That the commercial activities of a surf shop, an animal hospital and a handful of other businesses escaped the city fathers notice for almost fifty years apparently is not the point of this civic exercise.
I am not sure if there is a point.
If the zoning variance isn't granted we will lose one of the last true old time surf shops in the area.
We will gain two condo's right on PCH whose occupants (which will probably change ever 10 days during the summer months) will wonder who all these young men are, who keeping parking in the driveway, barging thru the front door demanding surf wax so they can go shred some "sick barrels".
But go check out the planning meeting, I see the whole thing going down a little like this,
I got a email from the ex-president of some third world nation I've never heard of who is promising to share a gazillion dollars with me it I only let him park it in my bank account for a week.
This particular windfall comes at a good time.
My wife and I had to call out the plumber over the weekend.
The kitchen sink was draining a little slow.
So this is what you get when you trade the money that was earmarked for a new wetsuit so that the sink will drain.
I have no idea what it is by the way, other than it was packed with muck and needed to be replaced.
In the category of "REALLY GOOD NEWS" I went for a surf on Saturday.
My back has been bothering me for a while and weather conditions have been poor every weekend since forever. Saturday didn't look much better but there was swell and by the time I got to the beach the south wind was coming up. I almost packed it in but I decided to go out and surf one wave. Just one.
Other than some bilateral soreness my back feels good!
It's been an action packed few hours, since I won the lottery last night, 230 million!
That's a lot of mats and fins!
I was quietly pondering the future when a real estate agent called out of the blue. I was sort of irritated that I could be found so soon by what would be a long line of people wanting money.
Deciding that the best defense is a good offense, (I read that somewhere) I made inquires about certain bluff top properties in San Diego.
By 2am I had closed on three adjoining estates overlooking Bird Rock.
The existing structures will be demolished by next Tuesday and will be replaced by a tent and one of those emergency slides from an airplane. I will be able to jump on the slide at the top of the cliff and be dropped off just out side the break!
I was getting into the swing of things. I realized that the stores are never closed. If you have cash.
As I was being driven south I asked the driver to pull over at one of my favorite surf shops in OB. My head was spinning and I needed a moment. I have always loved surf shops and have spent untold hours just feeling rails and pulling boards out of the rack to sight down the bottom and check the concaves. But now it struck me, I didn't need to browse any more. I walked in, looked at the Brewer hanging from the ceiling, looked at the clerk and said, "I'll take them all" then turned and walked next door for a cup of coffee. I wanted to check out my new properties as the sun came up and I find that I don't have the patience to waste time dawdling with the vulgarities of commerce.
So as I head south to warmer waters I hope you enjoy the rest of your April!
PS Stop by some time and I'll let you pet my elephant