/*23 Breaths: Spring Zoo*/

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Spring Zoo

Spent the day at the world famous
San Diego Zoo on Monday
a fabulous day

If SD every has a bad day of weather
someone please mail me a picture
because every day I'm there
it's perfect!

So no surf on Monday
but it did look like there was swell
checking those spots
one can check from the freeway

We are in that
between the seasons time
when swell direction can vary
dramatically from day to day

I was out the other day
just getting wet really
surfing the shore break
only a couple of people out

when outside
a NICE PEAK
started to form

I put my head down
and paddled / kicked
with everything I had

the wave was a nice wedge of
two complementary swells meeting
on a clandestine date
to merge

and I wanted to be in the middle of it

I figured I would be too far inside
to be in great position
but I could catch the left
and have a nice shoulder
to cry on

just as I got into position
the damn thing pitched!
me and my mat went
"ass over tin cup"
as they used to say

summer may not be here
but it's sending feelers

Which brings us to Bad Haiku Tuesday

first south wedges
summer explodes
too far outside

I am learning "not to share" so maybe we can stop the bad haiku's in the future
but maybe not

But onward to a great internet,
in this case Facebook, find

The following shot was swiped from
Kevin "Mel" Thoman's Facebook page 
It's a shot of the Wedge crew during the 70's
Men of iron those Wedge guys
Thanks Mel! 
(what are "friends" for)
 
Check the mat just right of center 
(it has fins attached!)
YooHooo

1 comment:

Glassics said...

That looks like one of Woody Woodworth's mats