Get The Long Boards Ready!

Watching the Bruce Brown movie yesterday got me in the mood to do a little gliding.

(The entire BB collection should come with a warning label.
"Caution - May contain scenes of graphic fun, if you are an old kook consult your physician before running out and attempting and "El Rollo")

Something like that.

No new photos at hand so here is a rerun of a day I deemed too small for the mat and took out a long board.

By long board I mean the Jim Phillips 8'0"

(Insert harp music for dream sequence here)

During the last flat spell...

The surf was limping in then hitting a sandbar just off shore. But conditions were great!

I was so desperate I took a board!
If it was your turn, the uneventful take preceded a dribbey little inside section.
This is the “outside” part of the wave about, 15 feet off the beach.

The wave slowly got bigger as you went.

Mind surfing when you are really surfing...
If you were 7 inches tall and had a fish this was the first interesting section.

A little bit farther down the line trying to achieve perfect trim and maximize speed

Hit by a lazer blast from the beach, I was frozen in this position for the rest of the day
Kids beware this is what happens when you get old and if you don't do your yoga!

Coming into “Outside-in-the-Middles”, my favorite part of the wave!

The 7 inch guy could be doing a nice roll-a-coaster right here.
Pretty water here since it's so shallow.
On some of these waves I would get distracted watching shadows fly by on the bottom.

So close to shore that backwash hits the wave and ruins it for a while.

This part was the “Dangerous Part”.
Hands coming up into a defensive position to deflect oranges thrown by the point troll (standing on the beach 10 feet away) on the beach and taking pictures.

Inside In-the-Middles and heading for the next section inside. Pretty sure that's Dano paddling back out

Made it to safety and celebrating the end of aerial attacks by bending my knees

Inside and close to the end. A fun, interesting, and challenging wave in some ways. Using no turns to generate speed, only glide and body English to maximize your trim (o'school) and tread your way through the flatter sections.

It looks like I am carrying a food tray.

All photos courtesy of Jason at  Daily Bread


Dirty Hippy said…
I like that your "long" board is an 8'0! Mine is a 7'1" Fish Simmons. However we just got Eaton paddle boards -- a 12-footer and a 14-footer. The waves were so tiny yesterday (but the glassy conditions were awesome) that we opted for a paddle along the reefs in Cardiff. And we were so desperate for any kind of ride that we paddled out to the kelp beds and cruised along the rolling incoming "swells." ha
I'd mat that.


Some nice small waves, and a beautiful morning. Prana, we're stoked for you.
Aloha, Cher and Steve
I would have been stoked to be out there, small or not.

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