The Right Stuff
"the right stuff" is the title of this beautiful John Severson water color
I find it interesting that given the HUGE amount of images that Mr. Severson has to choose from how often he returns to the mat riding of his youth. Makes me wonder if he had a really good mat would "The Surfer" magazine might have turned out to be "The Mat Surfer"
Mark Thomson staying high and driving.
Open the pic in its own window to see more detail
The answer is well placed fins and no you don't have to glue them to the bottom.
I have been thinking about posting about the importance of fin placement for a while.
It all came together watching Ramsnakes Fantasea Mat Riding in Slo-Mo post a few weeks ago.
I could pirate the video over here but follow the link above and go check it out at his site.
I sat in the local library, with their high speed video connect for the maximum time allowed watching and re-watching GG and Paul surf. I can't get enough high quality slow motion mat video. It's only in slow motion that you really see all the subtleties.
(I have been trading emails with one of the big names in surf blogs about doing some mat video for inclusion on their site. One of the most important things I think in capturing surf matting is a good tight shot in slow motion. More about that later.)
One of several things I noticed watch the Fantasea video was how much they used their inside fins to turn and keep a high line. All part of the dance when riding your mat.
The next time you are out, especially if you find yourself getting "flushed" out in front of the wave, try being a little more conscious of rolling to your inside rail and using your inside fin to keep yourself higher in the wave as you drive out to the shoulder .
Photo by Jason Hall - Dalybread.blogspot.com
Unless fins up and sideways is right for the moment.