/*23 Breaths: Interesting Bits*/

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Interesting Bits

Normally I put links to interesting bits I have found on the net at the end of the post

I fear that you might just disappear into the ether(net) and never return

But the surfmat video over at Surfmatters this morning is fantastic!

After starting off with a local threatening the camera with a rock

(If you don't live here DON'T SURF HERE)

The video continues on to show Mr. Dirk putting on a clinic of high line driving and fine edge control at an unnamed right point.

A jazzy sound track too!

This is one I'll spend hours watching in slow mo, trying appreciate each little subtly.

(Just kidding about the threatening local, the young man is just sharing a treasured beach find)
(I read too many surfing magazines)

So that said on with today's regularly scheduled post.


The surf session you plan for is sometimes not the surf session you have

The current surf conditions include side shore winds, fog, and a variety of swells with and increasing tide for most of the morning hours.

But as hope springs eternal I ventured out in hopes of catching a wave or two before spending the rest of the day searching for employment here in Orange County.

After giving the local twenty miles a good thorough look, I ended up surfing the first place I had checked earlier.  Apparently I will never learn.

My concern with the mornings intersection of wind swell and tide was that while a rather interesting peak would form and pitch out for a few yards, the rest of the ride was sort of thick and mushy. If I wanted thick and mushy I would just spend more time contemplating my midsection. I have ridden this type of surf before and I spend all my time trying to get in just the right position for that first pitch. The problem being that along with the lip, I end up getting pitched more often as not.  Lucky for me I had brought my big UDT fins along with my hand platter.  I have decided to call it a hand platter because it's twice the size of and average hand plane.  The larger size (13 X 20) let me position myself at that point where the peak would pitch and barrel for those sweet few yards.

No pictures of the day but the view was excellent! Not unlike this.


There are times I could really use a GoPro Cam

But as with many things, the piper must be paid.

I ended up tweaking my back.

So it light yoga and green tea for me today.

But it was so worth it!

Now back to the job boards

3 comments:

pranaglider said...

Remember to vote today! (if you are in the US) Some worth while props on the CA ballet today. Not too late to educate yourself and fulfill your civic duty!

misterdirk said...

Ha ha, that threatening local would probably guard your stuff while you surf, and then share some of his lunch with you afterwards! Positively angelic, he is.

We must make an effort to get you up here next winter, and do whatever it takes to get my wife to shoot the vids. I think the vaunted Golden Age of Matriding is yet to come.

pranaglider said...

Dirk, he does look like a very nice young man. Thanks again for your very gracious offer. Next winter for sure! If you are ever in the SoCal area let me know!