/*23 Breaths: EoS - It was a good day*/

Monday, September 9, 2013

EoS - It was a good day


In the water for both days this weekend
and as it happens
I can't even remember the last time
that happened

Not that it was epic
just barely breaking on Saturday
but it picked up on Sunday
but then so did the wind
which doesn't matter at all

When you ride a mat
just being in the water
is the thing
The surf, the day, the wind and the tide
are all properties
of the the instance of
the surfDay object
one of as many
or as few as occur
over the course
of a lifetime

This one was
sunny
peaky
and not too crowded

I used a smaller mat
and bigger fins

It was a good day

1 comment:

Robin Thomson said...

Rapt for you mate. Great waves here today too!