/*23 Breaths: It helps to have good fins*/

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

It helps to have good fins


There is a group
on Face Book
where I spend too much time

But it is a
hang out
of my friends
both near and far

How do I ride it?
Is a frequent and most legitimate question
and the answers come back
as best we can

using shaded words
to describe wild and subtle
actions

The trick
because there is always
a trick
(even in mat riding the coyote rules the roost)
is that
there is no trick

Riding a mat
is about waiting for the seasons
to change

So that that little sandbar
will take that
cross up swell
just right

even though
coastal dredging
to protect the value
of seaside homes
that never should have been built
destroyed the sandbar
years ago

riding a mat
has a lot to do with
how you surf your life

riding swells of memory
both light and dark
through the ever changing
moderne world that
we find ourselves in

suddenly
without explanation
we are surfing!

It helps to have
good fins

2 comments:

harmless neighborhood eccentric said...

fins.........
i love fins........
nice post

Anonymous said...

The mat is the one who surfs it's rider. The mat is in harmony with the changing ocean. It feels the grain, the tides, whether the sand is filled in over the reef. It knows when the ocean allows it to soar across the waves. The mat feels the ocean. The rider is just along... quite simply and certainly humbled, for the ride. IAMTHEEYE.

HH