"Wow! Just saw ****'s firing!!
On my patented,
first thing in the morning,
text message from the dawn patrol,
three exclamation marks in two short sentences
was both an excellent omen
and enough of an adrenalin rush for me to pass on a stop by the coffee store
and a get my sleepy self down to the local surf venue tout suite!
Before I delve into the days events, let me say that while Southern California has been enjoying what some are calling the longest stretch of good surf and conditions in recent memory.
I on the other hand, having been a prisoner of Lake Forest, have been routinely skunked, Shanghaied, waylay-ed and otherwise indisposed during much of the resent surf feast.
So I put the car in drive and repeated my mantra of "oh please oh please oh please oh ..." all the way to the beach.
Nice thing about it being good for so long. Not too much of a crowd on a early weekend morning. The locals I talked to said things like, "after surfing for twenty days straight, ya know I'm starting to get tired"
Great conditions, slightly off shore, not so much as to require a Herculean effort to paddle into the waves but enough to groom the combo swell into nice form.
The early morning sun made every wave look like it was hammered out of pure platinum with an almond in the center.
A good wave would deposit you 50 meters from your take off point and a great wave might double the distance and provide a cover-up in the process.