/*23 Breaths: November 2010*/

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Leslie Nielsen

The Airplane! movie, the Naked gun movies

Great American comedy

Nielsen was a master of the deadpan delivery.

The whole crew was great,  the writing stands up over time and is really funny.

"Bad day to stop sniffin glue"

Too many sight gags to mention

the "Don't call me Shirley" bit

I laughed all the way thru the 70's at this stuff

(there was nothing else to due the music was disco)

Monday, November 29, 2010

I'm Done

I uttered these words  after tearing out most of the old summer / fall garden over the long weekend.
Not much surf on tap and with gardening you have to complete some things before you start on others.

But then, it occurred to me that I wasn't really "done"

That the work I had just completed was merely a point in a circle.

I will plant a Winter garden  (yea for SoCal and our mild winters)
Then it would be time to turn that into mulch and plant for the Spring
and then repeat the process for Summer
Which will lead me back to tearing out the summer garden again.

So many of the things we do are cyclical but we seem to thing of them as linear.

Surfing is like that

you paddle out

you catch a wave in

you paddle back out

That certain seems cyclical
You repeat those cyclical surf days over and over
cyclical  again

When someone asks you how long you have surfed, do you reply with how many seasons?

"Well I'm finishing up with my forty-eighth cycle! I start number forty-nine next Summer!"

No I don't either, but maybe it would be more accurate if we did.

Something to ponder on a Monday.

Have a circular day!

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Communique from the Great NW

When we last heard from our intrepid GNW correspondents, bagquan and chiledub, they were clowning around amongst the trees enjoying the sunshine enjoying mat quivers that would make a strong man quiver with longing. 

But there was a chill in the evening air and things were about to turn damp.

Wind Speed 17.5 kts
Wind Gust 23.3 kts
Wave Height 5.2 ft
Dominant Wave Period 5 sec
Air Temperature 32.0 °F
Water Temperature 49.8 °F
Wind Chill 19.9 °F 

Given the nature of the nature it was decided that a feast was called for.

It seems that many native mushrooms were gather to augment the humble repast   

If those are turkey dogs you are well within the Thanksgiving Day Dinner parameters.
The bread qualifies as stuffing, the corn or maize is a time honored side dish and McD's ketchup is a suitable substitute for cranberry sauce. At least it's from the red end of the color spectrum and that is close enough for 23B.

I will send you some of the 60 and 70 degree day time temperatures if you could send some of your swell in this direction.

PPS You can keep the wind, we have our own.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Post Turkey Trama


You ate your Tofurky feast

You recovered enough to make it to the mall (against my advice)

You bought some new 52"* electronic state of the art thingy

on sale for a buck ninety eight

Now comes the real fun Sliding downhill on the cardboard box it came in!


 Now watch the ladies git er done


 *measured diagonally

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Happy Thanksgiving from HQ!

For Zen students a weed is a treasure. With this attitude, whatever you do, life becomes an art. ~ Shunryu Suzuki

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Stairway to Heaven

As the Thanksgiving workweek winds down I wanted to pass along a few random thoughts

This particular holiday is not about


Gravy - we are just crazy enough to have a holiday that celebrates gravy but the marketing people at swanson's just haven't gotten it together yet (sitting around watching MadMen reruns I suspect)

Stuffing - Not a big fan really, although I know some of you love the stuff.  I'd really rather just have the bread back and you can keep the mystery liquid that meddles it all together. While we are talking stuffing, if you didn't hide it in the bird you wouldn't have to overcook the turkey in order to make sure the stuffing is "done" and you wouldn't need the gravy to give some life to an overcooked dried out turkey.

the "Trimmings" - Imagine for a moment you are a food stuff, something delicious like brussel sprouts or a pie or something. Your whole life focused on being a great dish only to be lumped in with everything else as "the trimmings".  It's a bummer to be you man.

The holiday is also not about getting up in the middle of the night to stand in the cold out side some store in hopes of getting a dollar ninety eight 42 inch flat screen.

What is wrong with you people!

If you are getting up that early and to be cold to boot you better be going surfing.

And it better be good!

You understand that in SoCal the chances that you will be trampled at the pre dawn beach are probably just as good as being trampled at Walmart

but I digress.

You may have guessed at the beginning of this that I was heading to the "thanks" part of Thanksgiving.

And right you are.

Be thankful!

For what is up to each person to decide for themselves.

Take some time and repeat the practice as often as you need to.

I'll start.

I have a job

Now employment can be many things, for me, after being unemployed for over two years it means I can help provide a greater degree of economic stability for my family.

For that I'm truly thankful.

True I'm still too broke to get a new mat.

Even if they are on sale .

(I read some great stuff on the UK Mat Surfers site about guys having Paul make a 70/70 standard and then applying their own traction)

And the replacement for my Neumatic pranaglider is also quite a ways off in my financial future.

But as my wife is fond of pointing out.

I can only ride one mat at a time and I already have two.

So I'm thankful for that.

So it time for you to play the home game.

What are you thankful for?

I'll give you something

Here is some Frank Zappa!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Notes before the holiday

I just got this in the electro mail

Drew Kampion has revised, redone and replenished his website.

I am a huge fan of his writing so I am anxiously awaiting his latest project

It's due out in the spring and I could actually see myself standing in line for this one.

On other fronts,

waiting for a fast moving low to pass by and sprinkle us with, well sprinkles.

After that its the usual fall high pressure thru the weekend .

Surf wise it looks like leftovers all week.

Maybe something new on Sunday but don't tell anyone. 

As always mataroos, keep your mats, fins and wetsuits in the trunk in case grandma lives by the beach and you can score a session between the pie and the shopping.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Thanksgiving Week

Every Thanksgiving and usually Christmas too, my parents drove my brother and I to my grandmothers house in Burbank for the requisite turkey, stuffing and cranberry dinner.

Each and every time it was hollowing offshore.

My older brother and I pleaded to stay home, "It's gonna be epic!".

Every time our pleas fell on the unsympathetic ears of non surfing parents and we went.


I might have even thrown a tantrum if I'd known how.

But we went and I wonder how many good waves we missed.

I can tell you that you can always expect offshore wind on Thanksgiving.

Swell and tide well, thats another matter.

This mornings 10 day forecast

Nov 25

Sunny / Wind
From the Northeast

Friday, November 19, 2010

Killer Quiver - Ramsnake

I snaged this quiver shot from RamSnake's blog Magic Carpet Ride

You probably have already seen it, but RS has a rather complete quiver and I thought it was deserving of a little more attention.

In addition to the photos, Ramsnake gives us his take on how the individual mats ride, so check it out.

No word on how long it takes to decide which mat to surf in the morning but I think he has a man servant / mat caddy that he confers with before each go out. 

"I would be a good day for a Fatty, sir!"

"Yes Manfred it would,  perhaps later, right now inflate the Neu with 23 breaths.  It's time to charge the peak!"

(I kid! His mat caddy's real name is Bob)

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Melali - The Drifter Sessions

So this Friday night at 7pm at the Hurley HQ.

(thats Star Date 312118.3789954339
if you feel like getting your Star Trek geek on)

I have been to several of these events and while the sound quality is somewhat lacking they are fun and the crowd is friendly.

Here is a clip

I understand this is going to be one of those deals where the band plays live while the movie projects.

I also understand, that weather wise, we can expect the beginning of the weekends rain to begin so bring a jacket.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Good Times, my friends, Good Times

Mat Master Warren sent in the following Haiku and pictures
choppy but fun
a week or two ago
same day same wave

photos by Les Wilson

Kind of reminds me of last weekend

Small combo of swells with some variable breezes.

a little bumpy but really fun when you got one where you could connect the sections.

Afterwards, peeling off the wetsuit and standing in the carpark

the sun doing it's best,

Fall in California

My body full of post surf endorphins

Good Times, my friends, Good Times 

One more thing,

I am contributing to a new website

I've got a piece over there this morning entitled,

I have plans for a couple of more.


Ahh the Beatles lip synching

Friday, November 12, 2010

Near perfect mat waves

You probably saw this video on the Surfer’s Journal site yesterday.

The Annual Stone Steps Surf Contest in 1967, photography and narration by Richard Dowdy 

If I ever get a time machine this is one of my top ten stops.

The surf yesterday will be another

I get emails from friends letting me know how the surf is or was.

This one sticks out

"hb was golden todaynear perfect mat waves"

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Team Odie

Mel is going under the knife tomorrow

Although I don't know him well

I know that any of the Wedge Crew are 

more than just some guys that body surf a little and party a lot.

How hard could the big C be when you have conquered the Wedge?

Surgery is easy, do what the nurses tell you and watch out for the food.

You'll be back in the water by the next good south swell,


Wednesday, November 10, 2010

A couple of takes on the down the line mat boogie

Open both pics in their own windows so you can see the details

Greenough photo by Harold "Wardie" Ward

Here's an off the bottom but definitely down-the-line turn actuated by a subtle twist at the hips, a decided tuck of his inside shoulder and a little bit of fin tip

pic of Andrew Stephen Buck by Seth De Roulet

Above, we have the set up for the shot at the top really. ASB driving off the top and out with fins up. Low drag, high speed.

He is squeezing his outside front corner moving air to the inside mat rail and lengthening his inside leg getting ready to lean over, project and maybe use that fin tip.

I can and do sit and look at this stuff for hours.

Not just the waves, the mats, and the fins.

But how much a steady diet of Rincon effects style. 

So from my friends 
to me
out to you all

Happy Dreaming!

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Off Shore Winds

There is an off shore wind event shaping up for Thursday

A little too early to see if this is really just "variable winds"

or a real wind "event"

A wind event being classified as having a winds of so many kph or mph

I describe a wind event as blowing hard enough to be a bother on land.

You know, tie your animals to a tree and go search for your trash cans kind of bother

which have blown half way to the beach by now

Which does give you a good excuse for going to the beach

"Gotta look for our trash cans honey" 

Now where did they get off to?

The streets? Maybe the pier? Down by Golden West?

I suspect it's some sort of mating ritual for the trash cans 

but that's just me

Makes the surf look nice

I just hope there is some surf and wind left for the weekend

Monday, November 8, 2010

Fall Classic

After a disappointing Saturday surf check I decided that Sunday would be no better and scheduled a bike ride to fill in the gap.

I got up did some chores had breakfast and took two walks

then loaded up the bike and drove to the beach.

I was greeted with a true fall day in SoCal

The wind from the day before was still there but the water seemed to ignore it and allowed only a bit of texturing.

The seven different wind swells had entered into a temporary agreement which resulted in head high peaks up and down the beach.

Even though it was mid day the tide was still full enough to allow any stray lined up wave a chance to break in an orderly procession.

My surf stuff was still in the car from yesterday

But  the bike stuff had been promised an outing

What to do?

Friday, November 5, 2010

Prisoner of Lake Forest

After the summer that wasn't

follows the fall that shouldn't
so hot!

With waves that shouldn't
so big!

Coming from a direction that shouldn't
so north

Combined with a tide that shouldn't
so fat!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Miscellaneous Goodness

Another epic art show / party up at Graham's Shelter Surf Shop this weekend.

I have been meaning to get up there just to check out all the new shapes in stock, now I really have no reason to not make the trip.

Well there is that matter of unpaid over due library fines but my lawyer says we will have that misunderstanding straightened out soon.

I recently discovered a great new photo blog  Salty Eyes - a blog by Brandon DiPierri

Brandon has real talent for capturing the Central California surf scape.

Fun pictures, happy pictures, beautiful pictures you want to look at for a while.

I put a link to the blog over here --->

He will be in the rotation, check it out, good stuff.

I think you'll dig it.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Polls open till seven

Today is national election day

Get up off the couch and Vote

There is nothing on TV worth watching

Vote early

Vote often!

Monday, November 1, 2010

Halloween post up or Ronald rides a Mat!

Some Great North West quiver photos from Chilidub

Not sure if the clown is from the deep and rich NW mythological heritage, a Halloween reference, a comment on politics in America or just some clowning around.

Mat on the far right known alternatively as the open face Oreo or Casper

You can always tell it's the NW.
Lots of trees and moss on the ground.

If this was SoCal there would be condos in the background and all the trees would have spray paint tags.