/*23 Breaths: South Swell - swim surf walk repeat*/

Monday, August 13, 2012

South Swell - swim surf walk repeat


I had a blast on the mat, sharing peaks up at Bolsa with JJ on Saturday.

Sunday the North West swell that was crossing up the more dominant South swell had backed off and I had to reevaluate my equipment to fit the roaring side current.

The Paipo Planeo was the call

I walked the half mile south to the river mouth, waded out and waited for a lull then dove under the sets and tried to get into position.

So much easier to duck dive the sets on the Paipo Planeo!

When I did find myself in good position for a set wave the plane performed admirably. I've found that using my inside hand on the handle and my outside hand on the rail keeps me in a stretched out position and lets me keep control of the position of the inside rail. I sort of surf the plane where I want to be and my body follows along. Using the plane to keep me high on the wave face allows me to bleed off speed in a controlled down-the-line sort of way.

After a couple of waves the side current would have drug me far enough down the beach to require a nice restful walk back down the beach for another cycle.

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