/*23 Breaths: Another Dream sequence*/

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Another Dream sequence

Matt Beard making Huntington Pier look better than it ever does

Even though I rarely dream about surfing, last night I must have been due or maybe it was that the stitches don't come out for a week and I didn't have a chance of any water time.

The dream began as I swam out on the south side.  I grew up surfing the pier and when everything  comes together it can be epic. (On a regular basis though it's just a little better than the miles of beach break that surrounds it, but there's bleachers)  Anyway I'm swimming out on the south side into a surfscape with all the variables coming together. Large shifting peaks rising up and breaking way outside.  Almost to the end of the pier. Dark blue 8-10 foot A-frames. No wind because the waves looked like each one was cut from a single piece of dark blue glass. So I'm swimming out with my big yellow hand plane (did I mention that before?) no mat, no board but a hand plane.  I blame the daily hand plane porn from the guys at Enjoy. So I almost outside by now. The water is warm and when duck diving I go thru that thermocline that is so noticeable during the summer. I'm watching the other guys (there are only a few people out so you know it's a dream) get waves and I am catching a few. Nothing really amazing (who is scripting this dream?) but I'm just stoked to be in the water with the waves and watching everyone surf.

And then I woke up. 

1 comment:

Mateo said...

Oh it gets that good... just not in the day time.... :D