/*23 Breaths: November 2009*/

Monday, November 30, 2009

still feeling it

Tripping on Sgt. Pepper this morning

I thought you might like it as well

I wish I could post the whole album

Survived another holiday

At least I did better than the turkey

The next day we went on

the classic

surf trip to no where

the surf was either

too hot

too cold

the place that was "just right"


too crowded

Goldy Locks looks for surf

Made up for it yesterday

Head high

alternating peaks

and fast walls

dropping tide

off shore winds

light crowd


I'm still feeling it

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Pizza Night

I can't look at another slice of turkey!

and I like throwing the dough in the air!
The local produce market has fresh mushrooms and bell peppers.
The olives were from a can.

Repost from my other blog Frequent Rip Currents

because it's a weekend and it seems to work

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Prepping for the Giving Thanks Holiday

Hopefully not exactly like this Dan Ackroyd parody of Julia Child on SNL

Hoping to score some surf Thursday maybe Friday

while most are recovering from their

Tryptophan euphoria.

If you are planning holiday shopping

you might want to check out the

so much better than that

"surfing book" than aunt Jane

sent you last year.

The Surfer's Journal has a great piece by

I'm still working my way through the issue

it looks like a good one.

New Links

Today in the new links section I have two new blogs

that I think you will like

Karmic Voyager is off to a great start

I am looking forward to see where this one goes

Rorer714 is another freshy that bears watching

Since I'm not sure of my posting schedule

I want to wish you all a good week.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Jazz the F@#$%ing Glass!

You got it right folks,

GnarGnar's got a new one out

Premiering December 12th at the Hurley Cultural Center in Costa Mesa

If you haven't seen Invasion from Planet C

A) you live under a rock
B) you really missed it

Invasion from Planet C is one of my top ten surf movies of all time!

Here is the Planet C trailer

But that was then and this is now

I believe this is a prequel in the Stoke / Glass trilogy and happens before the Invasioners come for our stoke

Oh , never mind just watch the trailers

Are there more trailers?

You want more trailers?

You can't handle more trailers!

Here is trailer two

Check the Surf a Pig blog for more information

Friday, November 20, 2009

It's all about the fun

I came across this first photo on the Hull New World - Pizza Time blog

All photographs by Seth de Roulet

(see more of his work in the new Surfer's Journal)
I really like the way the light reflects off the wave, the rider positioned perfectly in the pocket.

So I was super stoked to be contacted by the rider Andrew Stephen Buck

In the course of our conversations Andrew volunteered the following shots

Just two friends having fun!

I think this is part of the beauty of the current "alternative surf" movement.

People riding craft that's just fun

Not because Kelly or some other heavily endorsed pro rides the same computer generated shape in perfect fantasy surf in some exotic location.

Just folks having fun at the local spot.

There's swell in the water this weekend

and if the weather is favorable

Go out and have fun!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

movin' to Montana soon

Prana, two Zappa posts in a row?

It's unthinkable!

It's unprofessional!

Would John do it?
I think John would do whatever he wanted to do

It seems to have worked out ok

So without further ado,

Frank wearing a coat I'm sure he got from Eddie

Montana solo

Montana Lyrics (so you can sing along)

I might be movin' to Montana soon
Just to raise me up a crop of
Dental Floss

Raisin' it up
Waxen it down
In a little white box
That I can sell uptown

By myself I wouldn't
Have no boss,
But I'd be raisin' my lonely
Dental Floss

Raisin' my lonely
Dental Floss

Well I just might grow me some bees
But I'd leave the sweet stuff
To somebody else . . . but then, on the other hand I would

Keep the wax
'N melt it down
Pluck some Floss
'N swish it aroun'

I'd have me a crop
An' it'd be on top (that's why I'm movin' to Montana)

Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a Dental Floss tycoon (yes I am)
Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a mennil-toss flykune

I'm pluckin' the ol'
Dennil Floss
That's growin' on the prairie
Pluckin' the floss!
I plucked all day an' all nite an' all
Afternoon . . .

I'm ridin' a small tiny hoss
(His name is MIGHTY LITTLE)
He's a good hoss
Even though
He's a bit dinky to strap a big saddle or
Blanket on anyway
He's a bit dinky to strap a big saddle or
Blanket on anyway
Any way

I'm pluckin' the ol'
Dennil Floss
Even if you think it is a little silly, folks
I don't care if you think it's silly, folks
I don't care if you think it's silly, folks

I'm gonna find me a horse
Just about this big,
An' ride him all along the border line

With a
Pair of heavy-duty
Zircon-encrusted tweezers in my hand
Every other wrangler would say
I was mighty grand

By myself I wouldn't
Have no boss,
But I'd be raisin' my lonely
Dental Floss

Raisin' my lonely
Dental Floss
Raisin' my lonely
Dental Floss

Well I might
Ride along the border
With my tweezers gleamin'
In the moon-lighty night

And then I'd
Get a cuppa cawfee
'N give my foot a push . . .
Just me 'n the pygmy pony
Over by the Dennil Floss Bush

'N then I might just
Jump back on
An' ride
Like a cowboy
Into the dawn to Montana

Movin' to Montana soon

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

One more day

I sit in the morning darkness and watch the screen

as blue blobs of flatness define my options

Cold off shores rush to the beach

in hopes of grooming waves

that aren't there

one more day

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Muffin Man

... seated at the table in the laboratory of the utility muffin
Research kitchen... reaching for an over sized chrome spoon he gathers an
Intimate quantity of dried muffin remnants and brushing his scapular aside
Proceeds to dump these inside of his shirt...
He turns to us and speaks:

This weekend I made a batch of muffins.

God I miss Frank Zappa!

This version is from October 28, 1977

Following are the complete lyrics, but you need to hear Mr. Zappa do it!

Of course, the guitar solo is unreal!

The muffin man is seated at the table in the laboratory of the utility muffin
Research kitchen... reaching for an over sized chrome spoon he gathers an
Intimate quantity of dried muffin remnants and brushing his scapular aside
Proceeds to dump these inside of his shirt...
He turns to us and speaks:

Some people like cupcakes better. I for one care less for them!

Arrogantly twisting the sterile canvas snoot of a fully charged icing
Anointment utensil he poots forths a quarter-ounce green rosette (oh ah yuk
Yuk... lets try that again...!) he poots forth a quarter-ounce green rosette
Near the summit of a dense but radiant muffin of his own design.
Later he says:

Some people... some people like cupcakes exclusively, while myself, I say
There is naught nor ought there be nothing so exalted on the face of gods grey
Earth as that prince of foods... the muffin!

Girl you thought he was a man
But he was a muffin
He hung around till you found
That he didn't know nuthin

Girl you thought he was a man
But he only was a-puffin
No cries is heard in the night
As a result of him stuffin


Maybe not directly surf related but close and
I am busy working on a post you'll really like!

Monday, November 16, 2009


should be a player number and

not a morning low temperature.

I am just sayin'.

On the plus side there is surf

on the down side you have to know

when and were to look given the

swell and tide combo

Lots of hand plane action on the net recently

This one is from Shelter Surf Shoppe

Brown Fish has some nice new ones on his blog Handplane Goodness.

Since everyone is making their own

and riding something different

they run the gamut from the

Big Yellow barn door I ride on occasion

To the ultra mini's Greg Deets uses

Photo from All About Surf courtesy of Greg Deets

It's all good as long as you have your hand in it

Let your mind lead and your hand will follow

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Getting to be that time of year

I normally surf in the mornings

I like the stillness of the new day

slight off shores

the dawn revealing peaky goodness.

But the Fall,

she has other ideas.

foggy mornings,

ridiculously fat morning tides,

not to mention slipping into wet booties.

Fall suggests I change my tact

maybe a slow meander to the beach

arriving around the crack of noon.

the tide is out

and the air temp

has risen to a respectable level.

light winds have replaced morning glass with a slight texture

Too bad it's still flat

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

From the rafters - Phil Edwards Model

Shaped and Designed by Phil

This should have been the teaser shot from last week
This Destination Surf canvas bag has been everywhere!

Classic Edwards shape with three stringers
Volan glass and 3 stick blank

A lot of extra wood / work in these blanks
Glass leash loop

Special Phil Edwards model gold lams

There are two of these old Hobie lams on the bottom

Signature on top of the glass work

Nose rail shot

Tail rail

A great board when the surf is small and perfect with slight off shores.

Phil Edwards - Picture from a story at the Honolulu Star Bulletin

If you grew up surfing in Southern California in the 60's Phil Edwards was the King.

Between the movies and the boards and the boats,

Mr Edwards was at ground zero of the Southern California surf lifestyle movement.

Not in a marketing and promotional way, he was just a class act who like to surf and sail.

When he was done he just sailed away in his catamaran "El Gato"

First out at Pipeline
Photo by Grannis

I bought this board used up in Huntington years ago.

A beautiful board by a master craftsman.

Sadly it up for sale.

Inquires contact pranaglider at hotmail dot com

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Tuesday Linky Linky

Since I can't think of a new diabolical diorama for today I thought I would share some links today

Photo from "Through A Liquid Mirror:"
Photographs By Wayne Levin; Introduction by Thomas Farber

Slider Magazine -
Beautiful blue water shots

Liquid Salt -
LSalt has blown up as the place for surf interviews on the web

BodySurf #3 -
Body surfing shots from all over - Issue number 3 great stuff!

Body Surf Now -
Another Auzzie body surfing site
Great header shot

Screen -

Here are a couple of clips of from Crystal Voyager you might like

Monday, November 9, 2009

Finally surfed today,

Sets were waist high with a few shoulder high sets
snapped a few pics so you could see for yourself.

I am thinking about going into the surf biz
I found this old surf shop that hasn't seen any action in a while

The location isn't too bad, I figure I fill the whole thing with mats and fins
how can I miss!

One of OC's best kept secret lefts was trying to work this morning, but just didn't have enough juice.

Rock on

Friday, November 6, 2009

Was that a raccoon?

Hmmm, what's on deck for next week's board from the rafters?
Nope not that pile, but it looks like my bike tires need air.

Maybe this one?

Definitely on the list, but not next week.

That one in the blue bag! A classic!

Was that a raccoon, that ran by?

So other than that I got nothing.

It does look like I got a sinus infection from not surfing
(what are the odds?)
and I feel kinda funky.

So enjoy the swell this weekend.


The Inflatinator

PS Thanks to the Drift Surfing Tweetor for the handle

Thursday, November 5, 2009

How dry I am

I haven't been in the water all week!

But hope springs eternal and they say it should be over two feet by the weekend!


In the mean time here are some interesting sites to browse


Adam Wright has broken down his surf forecasts by region

Here is the report for the waveless foggy OC


A Hull New World - Pizza Time whatever you call it

the "old guy inspiration series - part 2" has my new favorite mat photo

The second shot, the wave, the texture, the sun sparkling all done in

marvelous black and white. Outstanding work from Mr. Seth de Roulet


The Board Collector is putting together another Surf Market and Swap Meet

My favorite is the stack of lightning bolts.


Last, but certainly not least Tom Threinen has but together a teaser

I can't wait for this one!

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Things you need for fall

New towel
well at least wash that stinky one in the trunk

Another wetsuit
you need two
if you don’t they never dry out all winter and that can't be good
I can't afford a new wetsuit this year so I am going to give this a try
I'm going to alternate between my two old ones
At least I can get into a dry one
I have high hopes that they'll last longer
Another pair of booties
they REALLY never dry out, even if you only surf on weekends
if you can’t swing the whole other wetsuit
go with the booty thing
you’ll be glad you did
funky booty mold is worse than nuclear waste

A hood
you lose a large percentage of your body heat from your head
Surfers ear is no picnic
Really important if you surf where there's wind

Ear plugs
the poor man’s hoody
I have noticed that even without the hood I am significantly warmer when I wear earplugs.When you add in the possibility that you are at least slowing down ear exostosis it's a win - win deal.
(sorry about throwing in the win-win corp speak but I need to keep in practice in case I ever land a job)

Winter fins
If you use fins in your surfing you need to get a bigger pair since you will probably be wearing full booties now. No one enjoys the foot and leg cramps from wearing too small fins. It may be time to get "more fin" as well as winter conditions are generally a little heavier than summer.

Board Leash
If you use a leash winter is probably time to get a new one
Board length and surf height appropriate

Winter wax
Probably time to clean off your old wax, fix any dings and reapply water temp appropriate wax

glassy morning

turns to side shore afternoon

tourist still hunt for parking

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Tuesday's Board from the Rafters

AC Blue 6-7 11.35 19.25 13.75 2.55 4.75 2.15 11.25 3.25
(Rusty is good about giving you the dims)

My 80's trifin - a really fun board
Love the 80's day glow lam!

Not quite as narrow as it looks in the picture above.

Thick enough to catch waves, made before the glass sliver mentality took over.

The bottom has seen some action.
One fin was busted off and reattached

The tail bump was the rage,
look for it where the wood below the board intersects the rail line

Day glow nose guard to match the lam
Bought this one used (like most of my boards) so I can't claim credit

It was a time of BIG lams

This replaced my Brewer as the "go to" board when it was good.

As soon as I win the Lotto I'm going to ask Mr. Rusty to shape me several more!

These boards have gotten popular again because
"they are fun to ride"

I know not everyone is going to ride a mat but
eventually the mega surfboard suppliers should consider
producing boards that average surfer can ride in average
conditions and have fun.

I know I'm a marketing GENIUS!

On the other hand, a lot of back yard shapers and
small volume custom shapers probably make their livings
making boards a little longer, wider and thicker
than the slippers I see at Jack's and the other
big box, surf superstores stores.

And that's a good thing.

Support your local shaper / glasser!

Monday, November 2, 2009

Day Light Savings

Stop playing with my arbitrary time reference points!

I know about Benjamin Franklin's plan to save lamp oil etc

But the dogs and cats don't understand and my stomach doesn't understand

So change it a half an hour and leave it alone!

(sorry about the rant but I hate this stuff,

((but not enough to move to Arizona))

and this is the "good" change)

OK done with that until next time

All Hallows eve!

I had a good time!

Passed out candy

almost passed out from eating too much candy!

didn't get to watch my movies

but I had a good time

and I was thinking about making some changes...

First off EVERYONE gets to go out

in costume and get some treats

Age appropriate adjustments must be made to the treats however

Little kids -

still get candy, some things are already perfect

Tweens -

so what do you get a tween? The best marketers of our time are making billions on the market segment but I have no idea. Twilight tickets?

Legit teenagers -

This group is easy, beer, pizza and condoms. You can't beat the classics.

Twenty / Thirty somethings -

Hair products seem to be the rage. Keep it from falling out for the men and products to straighten, curl, color and shape it for the ladies. Maybe a SUV or a SUP?
(What they really need is a baby sitter for those rug rats but that's just me)

Forty / Fifty / Sixty -

Sample size Viagra for the men and for the women a day at the spa

Sixty plus -

Grandma and Grandpa don't want no stinking treats!
But they will empty the bowl when you aren't looking,
so they're good with the classics too!

So that's enough for a Monday!

The coffee / candy buzz is starting to wear off.