Thus I have heard...
Here in the tragic kingdom of the OC
Winter is a special time
The summer crowds are gone
Replaced by the winter crowds
The Aleutian swells march merrily down the coast
right past our south west facing beaches.
Some days I venture to the shore to wave to them as they head down the coast
towards San Diego
We are passed over like the short fat kid at the basketball tryouts.
But, that said,
if you are industrious enough
with enough
time
gasoline
caffeine
and above all an unlimited kitchen pass
you can search out
little bends in the coastline
brief changes in wind direction
complementary swell direction
and for a few precious hours
enjoy the surf of a lifetime
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