Thus I have heard...

Here in the tragic kingdom of the OC

Winter is a special time

The summer crowds are gone

Replaced by the winter crowds

The Aleutian swells march merrily down the coast

right past our south west facing beaches.

Some days I venture to the shore to wave to them as they head down the coast

towards San Diego

We are passed over like the short fat kid at the basketball tryouts.

But, that said,

if you are industrious enough

with enough




and above all an unlimited kitchen pass

you can search out

little bends in the coastline

brief changes in wind direction

complementary swell direction

and for a few precious hours

enjoy the surf of a lifetime


Piskian said…
Great wave.Looks like Porthleven down our way!But not crammed.
pranaglider said…
Piski - No idea where the wave is, just something I found on the internet and was saving for a rainy day.

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