/*23 Breaths: August 2012*/

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Thank you

I would like to thank all the folks that have stopped by 23B to offer their condolences and words of support.

sitting alone
waiting for the sun
I smell the ocean

I am not writing anything that would pass for a post here although I have been doing some things on Face Book.

Maybe after the long weekend. Or maybe not, it maybe time for a change.

Speaking of which, just a quick note to share, it's no secret that the swell will be up from sources near and far this weekend.

Since this coincides with "the last long weekend in Summer" and a quite warm August you can be certain that  the crowds will be epic.

So keep an eye out for the tourists, they are just trying to cool off and have some fun.

i have often encouraged you to all pick up some trash from the beach every time you go

this time I am asking each of you to pick a swimmer out of the rip

the lifeguards are going to have their hands full

Monday, August 20, 2012

Dog Stories -

Always get a good looking dog because you always end up looking like them.
If you don't believe me take a good look the next time you are at the dog park.

Amby - November 08

The surf was pretty fun on Saturday. My wife had accompanied me to Bolsa and the water was warm, the sun was out and it was a full on summer day.

When we got home my girl Amby was showing signs that her congestive heart failure was worsening. A trip to the vet confirmed our suspicions and an Xray showed that her heart was enlarged and she had fluid built up in her lungs. We received a blood thinner and a diuretic. The same stuff that most of the older population is using to manage similar problems.

In this case it would be enough and she passed away a few hours later in our front yard.

She was a good girl, the smartest dog I have ever known and would do absolutely anything for cheese.

My wife and I are "animal people" so we don't have pets we have four legged furry family members.

Her passing has been hard for me and hard for everyone in our family. But we will grieve and move on as we all must do.

The mornings I write 23B she was always right here with me and I miss her terribly.

This will be my last post for a while, it's just too much for me to sit here alone.


I mentioned Amby in a post a while back so I'm re-posting those bits below.

I have given up the mindful walking practice in the house
One step one breath
Because the dog
A herding breed
Takes it as a stalking posture
An invitation to play
She freezes and stares me down
I crackup, unable to do move forward
Other than to laugh and receive the gift and instruction

Reminds me of the time
I was testing out my new meditation cushion
Sitting in my best position
Legs folded
Back straight
Head level
Counting my breaths
Hands carefully folded
In the Cosmic Mudra
all the classic bull shit

The dog took one look
And placed her nose
Deeply into the hollow of my oh so solemnly folded palms
“stop this foolishness and scratch me behind my ears!”
Chop wood, carry water, pet the dog!

Saturday, August 18, 2012

Scotty get me outta here!

The natives here are getting restless

You better beam me up

and next time remember that no one wears a suit on the beach at Malibu

Kirk Out!

Friday, August 17, 2012

Misc Friday

Dark clouds this morning at dawn

A quick check of the local Doppler radar shows another batch of monsoonal moisture moving past.

The weather forecasts call for cooler temps next week

but that was the forecast said last week and it continued hot all week

so we will just have to see what happens

There is a Vintage Surf Auction this weekend in HB.

More info HERE and a live internet auction HERE

If you like that sort of thing.

I looked at the online listings and it cracks me up to see boards from the 70's in a "Vintage Auction". I road boards like that. There are some still in the garage. How funny.

Wait a minute if those are vintage boards and I rode them when they were new does that mean I'm vintage too?



The World Body Surfing contest is this weekend too. At O-side! Check it out HERE

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Come bid farewell to Hector

Hector had a long and eventful life.

But all the NWS can say is


From what I understand many others of his kind

will be joining him as he splashes upon our shores

this weekend

Causal dress

swim fins encouraged but not required

low tide in the morning

Come beat the heat

and bid farewell to Hector

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Julia Shark Week

This Dan Aykroyd parody of Julia Child on SNL still cracks me up after all these years!

Happy Birthday to Julia Child!

  In celebration of Shark Week

Have you seen the food in those things? The only thing that surprises me is that it isn't more, but then these stats are probably for people that are killed by a falling machine or something.

 and by the way if you haven't already, Stop Shark Finning!
 sign the petition 

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Early Fall

As I write this bit this morning

it's still hot

the temps only got down to 70 last night

it's almost 6 o'clock in the morning

and it's still dark outside

early fall

Beware The Undertoad!

on the pulse side

the water, which I thought would never warm up finally has

and there has even been some surf

since the circus left town and the contest curse has lifted

Photo by Kenneth Samuels 
"The Official Photographer of the Revolution"

the northern half of the southern california pod of prone riders

 scored big time from the looks of it

I wasn't there

preferring to be caught in a riptide 

for most of the day

some miles south

Monday, August 13, 2012

South Swell - swim surf walk repeat

I had a blast on the mat, sharing peaks up at Bolsa with JJ on Saturday.

Sunday the North West swell that was crossing up the more dominant South swell had backed off and I had to reevaluate my equipment to fit the roaring side current.

The Paipo Planeo was the call

I walked the half mile south to the river mouth, waded out and waited for a lull then dove under the sets and tried to get into position.

So much easier to duck dive the sets on the Paipo Planeo!

When I did find myself in good position for a set wave the plane performed admirably. I've found that using my inside hand on the handle and my outside hand on the rail keeps me in a stretched out position and lets me keep control of the position of the inside rail. I sort of surf the plane where I want to be and my body follows along. Using the plane to keep me high on the wave face allows me to bleed off speed in a controlled down-the-line sort of way.

After a couple of waves the side current would have drug me far enough down the beach to require a nice restful walk back down the beach for another cycle.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

My choclate covered peanut butter cups,

Like the wicked witch of the west,

are melting.

It's that time of the year

when if we actually had AC

it would be on

full blast.

Nothing to do really but go to the beach.

(If I must I must)

Lucked into a meetup with JJ back from his travels

then lucked into some NW wind swell to cross up the predominate South.

Peak a rama

I also go to try out the Churchill fins I won at the raffle a couple of weeks ago

good fins

one day doesn't make for a complete test

and there are a couple of holes in my feet that weren't there before

but a little rash is to be expected when trying out new equipment.

The plan for today is to go back and do it all again.

Stay cool and make sure you and your pets have plenty of water to drink

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Chest Deep - Redux

I'm sitting chest deep in the shore break washing machine waiting for another wave.

The new sandbar created by runoff from the recent rains was getting along nicely with the dropping tide and with the addition of a new SW swell to the fading yet still potent NW.

Of course most people were sitting to far outside to pick up these inside gems and that was fine by me. The truly great ones were far and few between. Everything had to come together just right. Too much NW and the wave just closed out.  Too much SW and the wave raced along, just too fast to catch.  The match I was looking for were combos of both swells and roped along the new inside bar. 

I had caught two already and I was hoping for one more before I called it a day.

I had almost given up when a peak popped up just to my left.  I have always liked a good no paddle take off when I rode standup boards and I enjoy it just as much on the mat. The take offs weren’t totally no paddle, but more a little positioning adjustment to get up under the lip before it pitched and a little flutter of the fins to change direction from being sucked up the wave to hurdling down the face.  

The bottom turn on a mat is a composite movement and done properly, a thing of beauty. You take the speed you gained racing down the face, then squeeze the mat allowing it to morph into the shape you need along the inside rail and then add a twist of body English. The result squirts you out and along the face of the wave going faster than you were going before. And that was pretty fast. Out toward whatever comes. In this case what was coming was the nice thick pitching section I was hoping for.

Since I was now a little low on the wave face I lessened my grip on my outside rail, which flattens the mat making it slow its’ forward trajectory and the water rushing up the the wave face elevated me on the swell.  Once I was higher on the wave face I just need to re-squeeze the outside rail, moving the air in the mat to plump my inside rail. Then you just lean forward, twist slightly and enjoy the view. 

The view, in this case, was pinching down at the end.  I had no complaints but I was now fairly close to shore and but it looked like this wave was going to end with a slap down.

There are several ways to end your participation in waves like this.  Pushing off the mat and free falling to the tube floor is always a good one.  Easy to do and generally resulting in only a minor beating while your mat washing up on shore without you.  While I mulled over some possible exit strategies the decision was made for me by a slight warble of water coming up the wave face.  This particular bit of water slowed my forward progress enough to embed me in the lip.  The lip, now really the roof at this point, paid me no never mind and proceeded to invert my mat and I and slamed both of us on the sand.

Fortunately the mat was fine.  My body had broken its fall. 

But I never did find my other fin.    

All photos by Jason Hall @ Daily Bread

Repost from a while back - I'm hitting the surf with JJ and don't have time to post!

Post script - We had a blast today! More NW to peak up the SS swell.

Friday, August 10, 2012

PangeaSeed Presents: The Great West Coast Migration – Art Benefit for Sharks & Oceans – Costa Mesa Exhibition
Surfacing in the OC for 3 days only – Friday August 10, – Sunday, August 12 at The ARTery @ The LAB in Costa Mesa, CA.!

Sharktown – Costa Mesa marks the fifth stop on the pioneering 6-city shark-saving art tour featuring over 100 amazing global artists and 25 incredible filmmakers all coming together to help raise awareness for the global plight of sharks and oceans.

New works from supporting artists Dave Kinsey, Jim Mazza, Ben Brough, Robb Havassy, Caspian de Looze, Ron Croci, Flick Ford, Rick Rietveld, Rick Blake, Jason Maloney, Thaddeus Strode, Evan Rossell (Stink), Kid Creature, Nathan Paul Gibbs, Shaw Sabori, Phil Roberts, Pascal Lecoq, Drew Toonz, Jay Celat, Hilton Alves, Ryan McVay, Matt Dampney, Rich Morrison, James Byron Lee, Sam Clark, Tom Balestar, Seth Matson, and many more – proceeds from the sale of artwork, film screenings and donations go directly to support PangeaSeed’s West Coast efforts to raise awareness and educate the public on the importance of shark conservation and the preservation of ocean habitats.

Open to the public.

Place: The ARTery @ The LAB
2930 Bristol Street Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 966-6661

Date: Friday, August 10 – Sunday August 12 , 2012 (see below for gallery times and event menu)
Opening Reception Party: Thursday August 10th – Music Dano Forte’s Juke Joint Freak Show Time: Doors open at 5:00pm – reception party 7pm – 11pm
Donation: Suggested $5 at the door – including one drink and raffle ticket
Sponsored by Surf City Art Co./Primo Beer
Date: Saturday, August 11, 2012
Gallery Times: 1pm – 6pm
Meet the local artists: 5pm – 6pm

Beneath The Waves Film Festival Under the Stars:
Saturday, August 11, 2012 Time: 7:00 – 10:00 p.m. – Across the street at The Treehouse/The CAMP – (Above Ecco Restaurant)
Donation: $5.00
A selection of short films from some of today’s most renowned marine and underwater filmmakers. Surfing & Sharks – Sharks in South Africa
Sharkwater Saipan
Drew Toonz
Yoram Benz
Buy Tickets In Advance via Brown Paper Tickects – follow the link below: http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/256451
Sponsored by Volcom V-Co-Logical Series
The Camp
2937 Bristol St
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-6661

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Vacation travels

Here is one of the places I managed to hit while I was down south

A new spot I am calling Pillsbury Point.
Today was a solid 10-15 with bigger sets.  I would tell you where it is but then I would have to poke you in the stomach with my finger.

The point is ruled, not with an soft white buttery hand but an iron fist by a bunch of toughs that call themselves the "dough boys".

Actually nice guys once you get to know them.  They have an bad boy image due to crankiness caused by exposure to the heavily polluted waters of the point and the chronic yeast infections that result.  I could see Tom Wolfe doing an expose on these guys.   Pictures are hard to come by but here is a snap I wanted to share.

   Funny story, I thought this was a cool bro I had talked to before.  Turns out he was totally somebody else and  REALLY didn't want me to surf there. Yew!

Monday, August 6, 2012

Cereus Interuptus

The Cereus is on it's mark and getting ready to bloom when the buds turn up like this.

The flowers start opening around dusk and and done by midnight.

One of the flowers from last year. They are about 6 to 8 inches across and have a strong spicy scent.

We are heading down to SD for a little R&R so we are going to miss them this year. 

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Fin Soup

Photo by Glenn Sakamoto

Headed up to the Fin Soup event up at Deus Ex Machina on Saturday.

The Deus guys have put together an interesting blending of their interests with only one rule. 

If we are going to do it, it has to be the best.

Strictly top drawer.

Sweet, this is gonna be a cake walk!

Spark up the Garmin, enter the desired destination coordinates, tell Scotty to "Engage" and partake in some barbeque.  Maybe a cold beer. It's a nice Saturday in SoCal what could be easier?

Turns out it's harder than it looks. How do you explain the subtleties of wave riding when people walk up to the table, slide their hands into a pair of hand crafted hand planes and say "what do you do with these things?".

I was repeated inclined to say, "you hang them on the wall for a while, then after you change your interior decor from beachy to new south western or ultra modern, you put them in a landfill where they happily decompose. 

They're green you know. 

What you definitely don't want to do is head down to the shore break and play in the water. 

Anything but that"

Fortunately for me there was a very inspiring collection of  boards from the short board revolution just across the way. 
This reminded me that every time I go out surfing I am standing on the shoulders of everyone who came before me and said I can make this surfing thing just a little bit more fun.

So I stayed, I talked. I did my best to describe the value of the time Jon put into the paipo when he put some belly in the nose and Vee in the tail. It's more concrete, more like the stand up boards most people are familiar with.  If they were still smiling and nodding I grabbed my mat and  gave my best shot at explaining the huge advantages of surf mats and variable inflation.

I think a couple of people got it.

Makes me feel like Johnny Appleseed.

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Scales and clocks just can't be trusted

Officially on vacation!

Going up to Venice for the Deus Ex Machina thing this afternoon

and the schedule degrades into nothingness on the event horizon after that

Let's just say I won't be going

 to the contest
 in Huntington

I'll try and post
if anything gets interesting

Friday, August 3, 2012

Deus Ex Machina!

Mary, Glenn and I will be at Fin Soup Saturday afternoon

Stop by and check out the goods!

We will be there to talk about mats, hand planes, paipos and things that make you go weeeeeee!

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Post Stoke Thursday

Awesome handplane setup for double GoPros but all I can think is "Oh No Mr. Bill"

The Thumb!

Nice work on the Brink boards

Home away from home

The colors and grain on these were fantastic

A full quiver of Slyde hand planes

tilt your head to left and you can see the outline of the saw. old school

Recipe for fun, just add water 

Twin fin belly board, nice art work

Paipo Nui - this was awesome

This was an amazing piece art / surfcraft! 
Three main pieces of wood and two stringers that were shaped into keel fins
I wish I had a better shot of this that really captured the form and the grain


So much fun at this event,

when is the next one?!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Post Stoke Wednesday

There is the legendary wall at Malibu but this one did quite nicely.
I spent a bit of time wonder what I could do that would allow me to spend my working days in that office complex in the upper left. 

There are never any pictures of the photographers. 
Ken Samuels official photographer of the revolution!

If you want to see, feel, talk and ride alt surf craft, this was the place!

Some new flash hand planes from Slyde next to some hand crafted beauties from Mr. Mike

Pendos' Paipo was a happy blending of glass spoon, paipo and www.pendo.com

Christine Brailsford's work is awesome and at the top of the list of craft to ride next time

The Thumb was there!

My next mat is going to have a cup holder like the Manta Ray!

PMK probably thinking "this kook needs some sun block and a cup holder"



What's next?

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