/*23 Breaths: Just another day in January*/

Monday, January 24, 2011

Just another day in January


And as the sun sank into the west the sky erupted into bright pink and a color I can only describe as "evening sky blue".

But I have gotten ahead of my self and focused on the pizza too soon.
Which is actually a good thing because if you forget about the pizza is burns.

The day started off with high hopes in the surf department.
The weather report was promising

"HIGH PRESSURE ALOFT OFF THE CALIFORNIA COAST COMBINED WITH SURFACE HIGH PRESSURE OVER THE GREAT BASIN WILL CONTINUE WARM AND DRY WEATHER THROUGH FRIDAY WITH PERIODS OF WEAK TO LOCALLY MODERATE OFFSHORE WINDS AT TIMES."


And the swell had looked promising as well.

Sadly the reality of the new swell was that is was a quite steep NW which offered overhead close outs or one foot zippers.


Jonathon and I had to result in extreme measures.


There was a car ride, a walk, a mule trip to the bottom of the canyon and a time machine involved.


But we were finally able to get some great mat waves!


Wave of the day honors belonged to JJ as he caught a close to shore slab left (most of the rides were much farther out side and were well over a hundred yards).

The wave in question started out looking not unlike a Wedge monster, but of course the Wedge hadn't even been created yet and if it had would be many miles away. But that was my first impression, a take off that was mostly heaving lip and a little bit of mat rider hanging on and trying to find some purchase for his rail. My initial thoughts were I wonder if I brought a shovel to dig poor Jonathon out of the sand at low tide. But JJ found his rail and screamed down the line just barely escaping the hungry mouth of the beast.  A small band of friendly natives had gathered on the shore, screamed and yelled as JJ exited the water but I was surprised by one fellow who offered up a quite authentic "golf clap".  

Several hours later and maybe two hundred years later I returned home just in time to make pizza for dinner.

And I think that where this story started.   


Sorry no surf pictures but the whole time travel thing seems to ruin any photos.

4 comments:

The Boda Surfamily said...

pachino funghi e mozzarella?

pranaglider said...

funghi, pomodoro mozzarella e olive! E un sacco di vino rosso! Purtroppo nulla dal giardino in questo periodo dell'anno.

The Boda Surfamily said...

ma parli italiano?

pranaglider said...

Purtroppo no :(