...stronger winds in and below canyons...

In was a day not unlike today

too fat a tide

a combination of swells

the occasional crossup

a bit offshore

none of the local crew

had felt much like

shimming into a sandy still damp wetsuit

in the wind

cold, windy and shifty 

occasionally peaky

you spend most of your time

dodging the closed out ones

whilst keeping in position 

over the sandbar

I wanted to go out

but the mat was not the call

a rare thing

but it happens

you ride it

with ultra low inflation

and inch or too of air

more efficient swimming

interesting body surfing

but not today

the good ones

came about every 5 minutes

an obtuse blending of swells

would peak pitch and barrel 

over the sandbar

and then disappear into the trench

that separates the inside from the outside

The kick board had been living in my trunk

for long enough

that my promise to 

sooner or later I'll ride that 

came to pass

Great call

Easy to dodge the sets 

but enough of a paddling advantage 

to help plane into the big ones.

Sometimes you come out

clean and dry

Sometimes you just

get crushed

the View is fantastic. 

 Random ghostbuster quote -

"During the Third Reconciliation of the Last of the Meketrex Supplicants, they chose a new form for him, that of a giant Sloar! Many Shubs and Zulls knew what it was to be roasted in the depths of a Sloar that day, I can tell you!"

―Vinz Clortho