/*23 Breaths: Fall is the new Summer*/

Friday, October 1, 2010

Fall is the new Summer

The days are hot and sunny

The water is warming up

There is nothing like summer!


Fall has been a local favorite for a long time

The days are warm 

the water is warm

swells come from the north and the south

and school is back in session!


As I was walking out the the super secret mysto break know only as HQ

(which has been pumping btw)

I was thinking about why I ride a mat.

I have a garage full of boards gathering dust for the most part, time to have a garage sale really.

But after some consideration I have come to the conclusion that matting takes everything that got me hooked on wave riding in the first place and condensed it down into it most basic form.

The glide

the speed

the water

the play.

Surfing today is just as much fun as it was that first day surfing the shore break at Huntington Pier.

I don't think it's just me.


I use this shot a lot. 

A super stoked young lady, enjoying surfing for maybe the first time.

She could very well be the world mat champion of 2023.

Photo by Ken
Here's JJ screaming thru a cutback on a mat of his own design and construction.

Same super stoked look on his face!

More that a few years in the water separate these two.

JJ is a highly skilled waterman.

The point is the stoke is as strong as ever

Fall is the new Summer

2 comments:

Ramsnake said...

I was stoked yesterday in marginal conditions in which the mat again revealed it's extraordinary ability to turn junk into gold! My wave count was enormous in comparison to everybody else's and I had to force myself to end the session even though the conditions had deteriorated further. So I am thinking to myself, how come people are not rushing up and saying, "Give me a shot on that amazing wave riding machine of yours!" I know the incredible sensations and feelings that I am experiencing as I ride the waves but clearly they are not being transmitted to those who maybe watching. I think mat riding provide a heightened and highly personal multi-sensational experience affecting mind, body and soul that is only available to those who have the humility to give it a go!

Anonymous said...

yeah i amazed a crowd today multiple times and offered to trade with some dude who was interested in it, he ended up turning down the offer. i think some people have a inner hatred for prone wave riding they just cant get over.