The water is warming up
There is nothing like summer!
Fall has been a local favorite for a long time
The days are warm
the water is warm
swells come from the north and the south
and school is back in session!
As I was walking out the the super secret mysto break know only as HQ
(which has been pumping btw)
I was thinking about why I ride a mat.
I have a garage full of boards gathering dust for the most part, time to have a garage sale really.
But after some consideration I have come to the conclusion that matting takes everything that got me hooked on wave riding in the first place and condensed it down into it most basic form.
Surfing today is just as much fun as it was that first day surfing the shore break at Huntington Pier.
I don't think it's just me.
I use this shot a lot.
A super stoked young lady, enjoying surfing for maybe the first time.
She could very well be the world mat champion of 2023.
Photo by Ken
Here's JJ screaming thru a cutback on a mat of his own design and construction.
Same super stoked look on his face!
More that a few years in the water separate these two.
JJ is a highly skilled waterman.
The point is the stoke is as strong as ever
Fall is the new Summer