/*23 Breaths: Malibu comes to Newport*/

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Malibu comes to Newport

During the last flat spell...

The surf was limping in then hitting a sandbar just off shore.

So desperate I took a board!
If it was your turn, the takeoff was uneventful and preceded a dribbey little section.
This is the “outside” part of the wave about 15 feet off the beach.


The wave slowly got bigger as you went.

Mind surfing when you are really surfing
If you were 7 inches tall and had a fish this was the first interesting section.


A little bit farther down the line trying to achieve perfect trim and maintain speed

Hit by a lazer blast from the beach and stayed frozen in this position for the rest of the day
(kids beware this is what happens when you get old)


Coming into “Outside-in-the-Middles”

The 7 inch guy could be doing a nice roll-a-coaster right here.
Pretty water here since it's so shallow.
On a lot of these waves I would get distracted watching shadows on the bottom.


So close to shore that backwash hits the wave and ruins it for a while.

This part was the “Dangerous Part”.
Hands coming up into a defensive position to deflect oranges thrown by the point troll (standing on the beach 10 feet away)


Inside In-the-Middles and heading for the next section inside

Made it to safety and celebrating the end of aerial attacks by bending the knees


Inside and close to the end

A fun, interesting, and challenging wave.
Using only glide and no turns you had to maximize your trim (o'school) through the flatter sections to be able to surf the whole wave.
It looks like I am carrying a tray.


I got hurt that day.
It's always the small days that get you!
I had to take the fin out of this board to get it in and out of the car.
I was trying to move the fin up and heard something pop in my chest.


The next day I thought the mat would be ideal to glide through the flats on the way to steeper sections to see if I could still ride the mat.

Those are my Ugg prints on the left. Returning with Duck Feet on the right


The wind was more offshore and the mix of little threads of swell had changed again.

I would try to move way up on the mat and lift my legs to minimize any drag and zip through to the next section


Right after the cutback, reengaging my inside fin to cutback before sliding Lala style through outside In-the-Middles

If you blow this up I look like Kenny


A windier day
I wore my hood
but this one was glassy

(Ok, no more Haiku this post)


Not as good (or as long) this day but a least it was overhead.

Dragging my inside arm to try to stall in case the inside section pitches (I'm delusional, I know)


The wind came up and made it a little hollower (very little), still dragging my arm

Still delusional


All photos courtesy of http://dalybread.blogspot.com

5 comments:

pranaglider said...

Hey anybody can hype the last great swell.
Here at 23 we hype the last flat spell!
Thanks again to Kaser for all the pictures.

pushingtide said...

Awesome write up!

kaser_one said...

ditto, nice work.


now go get a job you bum!

asmith said...

Looks fun. I love clean little waves. Did you get any good ones during the more significant swell event?

23 Breaths said...

push - K1 sent me a bunch of shots from the day and I just ordered them and and snarked alittle. I'm glad you liked it.

K1 - you sound like my wife!

AS - no I hurt myself and I'm still recovering ;(.
Looked like you guys got some good ones!