Ladies, Gentlemen and Children of the Sun
I have been running it over at FrequentRipCurrents for the last few days.
You might have already seen it
But just in case you didn't
The narration alone is classic
Very Endless Summer- esque
49 seconds in, the quote "lets sort of move it now with Georgy" just swings man.
Too groovy for words really, but classic "Hipster speak" from the era.
These guys were cutting edge
Paul Gross commented on FRC that the clip is from "Children in the Sun".
Great footage comparing and contrasting what Greenough was doing on Velo with some of the best surfers of the period.
This is what really started the short board revolution.
When Greenough brought his boards to Australia the boys went nuts.
Starting with "Greenough fins" and then cutting down on board length
the Aussies were all over it.
Back at the ranch, (so to speak) west coast surfers had seen Georges boards too.
This information soon made it's way to Hawaii.
Brewer started cutting two feet off the end of the blanks and started shaping mini-guns.
Was GG the Johnny Appleseed of the short board revolution?
Surfers have been messing with their equipment since the days of riding a log.
No I mean trees, logs, palm fronds, whatever was floating at the beach.
Polynesians have been surfing boards of various size for ages.
But the "Total Involvement" era?
If that's what you want to call it, then
I'd give it to George
for changing the direction
(both literally and figuratively)
Every surfer should read the following,
Required Reading: a Bob McTavish piece in Surf International from the Surf Research site.
He was there in 67 and describes it like I never could.
Ok you punks beat it out of me.
Soon to be released as a best selling book and a Major Motion Picture!
The REAL story of the short board REVOLUTION!!
The story begins...
A spaceship lands in Santa Barbra California and debarks two passengers,
the creatures that the world would know as,
Micky Dora and George Greenough.
While Dora kept everyone busy watching him at Malibu,
George created short boards of his own design.
The design allowed for the rider to make radical turns in the pocket of the wave.
Only the Amish had done this sort of surfing before
on their homemade Paipos
So Greenough changed everything
Then George got a mat
and is patiently waiting for the spaceship to return,
along with the rest of us
Matthew McConaughey* as George Greenough
Johnny Deep as Dora
* Cause if you need a surfer you want Matthew McConaughey.
But seriously, If Mr. McC can become as good as a writer, actor, director as Sean Penn did after being the "Spicoli" of his generation then good.
In full disclosure, I haven't seen the movie
and probably won't
I already saw Annette and Franky
That's enough for today