with the 4th right around the corner can the circus be far away?
Enjoy the cooler temps and a bit of drizzle along the coast while it lasts. Once the high pressure moves in (let's say Wednesday) it will get hot all the way thru the holiday (at least). Which means EVERYONE will head to the beach to cool off. Good luck, be careful driving, keep a watchful eye on the visitors but give your parking spot to a local...
I was in temporary possession of this fine example of Dales work for a while now but have been too busy riding the 4thGF mini and now the Omni to really get it moved into the rotation. I dug it out of the pile in my room and took it out of the bag and inflated it. It was dusty. Now it looks like it's going back to it's rightful owner. I'm a little sad to see it go but I'm stoked it will get back in the water. Let the board riders hang beautiful examples of the craft on the wall. Mats should be rolled up and tucked away in the car really for the next go out.
A sad thing a dusty mat
Finally homeward bound
Just in time for summer
A deep marine layer, more than a little south wind and some generalized depression has me thinking about moving somewhere with few people fewer strip malls, fewer people (yes I said it twice it was so important) and a more natural setting that isn't so dependent on a lack of cut off lows
So while I try to write a few coherent words
Crank it up and enjoy
Ashes of laughter
The ghost is clear
Why do the best things always disappear?
Please darken my door.
Original Photo by Jason Hall "Photoshopped" with Gimp if that's possible
and again, and again and again
for this neck of the woods, June means
fog and sprinkles
no not that kind of sprinkles
BTW I have been told that these gritty chunks of extruded sugar are really called "Johnny's" in the trade but I call them sprinkles and I do not like them. I really don't like any of the things they sprinkle on top of cupcakes. I always feels like the you are eating them at the beach and there is a healthy dose of sand involved. At the beach that's ok. Anywhere else no so much. You are just eating sand. If your cup cakes can't stand on their own two legs then bake something else! Ok meandering rant on baked goods over let's return to the regularly scheduled monday content... where if I am not mistaken I was talking about lite precipitation...
The it's-not-raining-but-I-have-my-wipers-on-all-the-way-to-work-anyway kind of sprinkles
Technically this could be called rain but that would be insulting to real rain, which falls mainly on the plain but not in Southern California,
so I just call it sprinkles.
By noon it's hot and sunny until you get within a couple of miles from the beach,
I thought I would paddle out old style, under my own power even though everyone takes the water taxi out to the lineup now a days.
It not a taxi of course, but a custom backwash wave that moves you from the shore out to the waves
or where the waves will be, its sheet glass right now, not even a ripple.
The artificial off shore wind machine hadn’t started yet.
The waves I ordered from Surfline won’t be arriving for another 15 minutes yet. Surfline – “Let us know before you go and we’ll make it so".
The weather modification technologies that became available after the big nano tech breakthrough allow the onetime forecasting company to manufacture swell to order now. I have been following the storms since I put my order in and the waves will arrive right on time or your money back. LOLA wave modeling programs which started off modeling swell and bathymetry now worked in conjunction with an AI and nano tech in the sea floor to provide the perfect ocean floor for the swell directions. Directions plural because the Surfline WaveMaker 2.3 release guaranteed that several swells could be generated to arrive at exactly the prearranged time and coordinates. Perfect "A Frame" peaks every time, unless you request something that wraps…
It was going to be my first go out on my new mat, a PranaGlider-23B. I had just printed it and a new pair of Voit fins out from a 3D printer right on the beach. Carrying around gear stopped when you could save your personal designs on the web and then print it out with a 3D Ink Jet. When you are done the molecules are released back into the atmosphere as non polluting particles.
The mat has a wave / sea floor interface with auto inflation and instant volume adjustment. The mat is filled with hydrogen gas it extracts out of the water and into the mat thru a smart membrane all controlled by direct neural connection with the visor I wear. It all happens in a millisecond. The AI in the mat monitors the wave, the ocean bottom and your body language and handles all the details. Sometimes I'll hack the program so I can drive. Just like the old days.
I have just enough time this morning to catch 2 of the three thousand yard rights I ordered 10 days ago. My friends think I’m crazy for ordering up waves and then letting them go unridden. There is something about watching a wave peel off down the beach perfect and untouched that I find exciting and after the first two I am usually ready for a break.
That perfect combination
the three egg omelet of goodness
the holy trinity that makes for surf perfection
as it always does
but this time
the weather forecast
highs in the 80's
was a serviceable
some from this direction
and some from that
The water was
by some reports
as good as it gets
maybe just wear
and get a jump start
it was not to be
I for one
to hand over
that ominous title
not to those
that come from
the North East
into cover photo
burning the house down
The true Devil Winds
come from the south
and blow a perfectly nice
suitable for tourist
and the truly desperate