I need it to be summer
Water color by John Severson
I need to wake up to blinding sun shine first thing in the morning
I need that smell of summer, part coastal sage, part hot asphalt, part surf wax
I need to call the surf report and hear for the 100th time, "there is a south west swell running from 2 to 3 feet"
I need my hair to bleach out to snow white with the consistency of dry straw
I need to wonder how many days the water temperate will stay above 70 before plunging down the chilly 50's with the arrival of a big south swell.
I need to wear the same clothes, trunks, flip flops and t shirt until people start asking if these are the only clothes I own.
I need to decide if I am going to surf in the morning or in the afternoon, then surf both just like yesterday and the day before.
I need to forget what day of the week it is.
I need to go to the surf movies and know the California crew by first name, the Hawaiian crew by surfing style alone and have thought to myself "hey I was out that day!" at least several times during the movie.
I need to quit my job because, "this could be the biggest swell of the summer!" and they can't give me the time off.
I need to have my significant other tell me that I am getting too much sun and really need to apply more sun screen.
I need to have surfed so many days in a row that I seriously think about taking a day off , and then don't.
I need to have ordered a new board at the beginning of summer and have ridden it enough to think of it as my old board and have ordered another one.
I need to be surfing just before dark and think to myself "just one more wave" and spend another hour and a half in the water.
I need it to be summer.