a great surf day
I knew it would be an interesting day
The espresso grind was so light and fluffy it threatened to float away.
I did manage to herd enough into the pot to make a decent batch.
My morning surf ritual.
Next to the internets. Not to the "surf site" because they vary widely and are more inclined to overhype a marginal swell that to tip you off to "the thunder from down under"
Besides pulling up to the beach to check it out to find out it's firing is one of lifes great pleasures.
Using a service to tell you what the swell is going to be like would be like having a service to tell you what your Christmas presents are going to be. "The yellow package in the corner is a catchers mitt. You will leave it at practice in two weeks and never see it again..."
That said sometimes I cheat. Maybe look at a tide chart or a wind forecast.
The waves are the waves are the waves.
Meditate on that koan for a while. You will figure it out.
But the omens were still with me today.
My wetsuit was dry and if you don't count a bit of sand was still in perfect condition.
Love the limestone neoprene. Although I still haven't figured how they get a delightful bit of rubber out of a rock...
I am happy enough that when someone asks, after a multi hour session "how was the water" I honestly can't say. It was either cold and the new suit was a great insulator or the water was very warm all winter. I can't really say.
My mat and fins are perfect.
Everytime I get a new mat from Paul I think "OK that's it, this is perfect and it can't ever get any better that this!" then six months later (and probably a thousand subtle research projects on Paul's part) he comes up with something that rides even better than the last one.
Never buy a surf craft from someone who doesn't surf.
Always get your stuff directly from the maker and
probably most importantly shop locally.
That small bit of wisdom should be obvious but in looking at the surf craft industry I think it prudent to point out these facts.
But back to the day at hand.
The coffee now drunk, the tidal swings deemed appropriate and the gear all accounted for I began the voyage to the beach.
I don't live far from the beach but living as I do in the very epicenter of the Kingdom of Orange the trip to the beach can at times be rather trying
and that is how I knew that today was going to be special
there were no stops
the 2 point 3 mile journey
using roads under the combined jurisdiction of the
city / county / state of Kaliforna
with some federal highway moneys thrown in for good measure
did not impede my progress
and that is how I knew that it was going to be a great surf day.