Some rain today
A little earlier than I had expected.
(This is what I get for watching more CNN than Weather Channel)
I got a new mat in the mail from Paul that I'm itching to ride but I need to apply some grip to first.
I need some free time and some clear weather.
This the stretch of "bad weather"
Is all my fault
Actually we are getting some seasonal weather for a change
a couple of days of sprinkles
a couple of days of warm dry winds
the SoCal version of Fall
No one will ever write songs about it
the surf can be good
and I have heard rumblings
in the underbrush
when the wide tidal swings
we get this time of year
the sandbars that the summer swells have groomed
and a happy blending
for a few hours
"In this crowded world,
the surfer can still seek and find
the perfect day,
the perfect wave,
and be alone with the surf
and his thoughts."
Perfect Day Perfect wave Headquarters photo by Jason Hall