Some rain today

A little earlier than I had expected.

(This is what I get for watching more CNN than Weather Channel)

I got a new mat in the mail from Paul that I'm itching to ride but I need to apply some grip to first.

I need some free time and some clear weather.

This the stretch of "bad weather"

Is all my fault

I apologize

Actually we are getting some seasonal weather for a change

a couple of days of sprinkles

followed by

a couple of days of warm dry winds

the SoCal version of Fall

No one will ever write songs about it


the surf can be good

and I have heard rumblings

in the underbrush

about afternoons

when the wide tidal swings

we get this time of year

the sandbars that the summer swells have groomed

and a happy blending

of swells

comes together

just right

for a few hours


"In this crowded world,
the surfer can still seek and find
the perfect day,
the perfect wave,
and be alone with the surf
and his thoughts."

John Severson

Perfect Day Perfect wave Headquarters photo by Jason Hall


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