Simple joyful pleasures shared amongst friends


Photo by Ken Samuels

Riding a mat is not like riding anything else,
but at times it's like riding everything else.

It's not like a body board.

Yes, you have fins. Yes, you are treated like a lower life form in the lineup for no good reason. But there is a whole lot more going on with a mat that isn't with a body board. You do reshape the body board as you ride but not nearly to the extent as you do on a mat.


Mattitude off the top at speed, while reshaping the mat and getting ready for the next section
photo by Ken Samuels

It's not like a short board.

First there is no ER or ING so there is no mass marketing machine telling you how cool you are if you have the right t-shirt and surf the "right" way. There is no "three turns to the beach" mentality in surf mat riding. But seriously, when you are riding a mat you are surfing the wave in a more intimate way than you could possibly do when riding a fixed fin hard board. You can't really say you reshape your short board on the fly to fit the ever changing wave face. The "moves" are a lot more subtle and aren't really maneuvers at all but optimizations to fit the context of the wave at the moment.


It's not like a long board.

Well maybe it is more like a long board. Position surfing, working with the wave, an emphasis on trimming and finding those spots on the face that provide bursts of speed. And the tube riding, eh well then again, maybe it's not like a long board.


Sideways thru the end of the outside waiting for the inside section to set up
Photo by Jason of Daily Bread

It's "like jet-propelled body surfing"

This is right from the horses mouth. Some people say that a mat is a good thing to ride when it's big and bumpy, and it is a good thing to ride when it's big and bumpy. But it is even better when it is dredging and pitching. Don't take my word for it. Go look and any of the George Greenough's tube shots. Most were done while he was riding a mat. There is a feeling of connectedness with the wave that really helps when you are trying to sit in the tube. You can see the wave changing ahead of you and you can feel it, thru the mat, underneath you. You make small changes in the ebb and flow of your slide as the wave ungulates around you. Usually done while unknowing cackling your lungs out, and at full speed. 

Photo by Harold Ward 
(He's that dot in the channel remotely activating the camera on George's back. He has his hands full) 

I have kept you a long time but here is one more comparison.

I surf in one of the more crowded areas of Southern California. But I surf alone. I surf it like it a early 60's longboard, lots of soul but maybe not that exciting to watch. But I am having a blast! As much fun as those first days as a super stoked grimmie in the shore break at Huntington. I hope to, someday, be a part of the mat revolution. Faster, more turns, more "total involvement". But right now it's like the 1950's or early sixties and I don't see another mat rider for miles and if I saw someone with a mat I would pull my car over and chat because I either know them or I share something very important with them.

So my final comparison is that mat riding is a lot like surfing used to be, a simple, joyful pleasure shared amongst friends.


Chiledub, Tom, some kook with a blog and Ken Dog. Post session conference (this ain't no board meeting!)

Comments

nedsurf said…
Body surfing on steroids is how I describe it to non-matters. Hadn't really thought about the comparison to surfing 50 years ago, but the analogy applies. Somebody come to Oceanside sometime, it's a little lonely here for mat riding. Nice write-up!
pranaglider said…
Thanks Don I'm glad you liked it! We need to get a mat meet organized.
Anonymous said…
I like this article. I also mat in so cal and find it hard to find other mat surfers I live in Eagle Rock so getting to the beach is a 1 1/2 hr drive and offten a solo adventure. Some times I get to mat with surf sister Mary but not offten due to schedules. Where in so cal do you mat I would like to meet up some time.

Charles Price
pranaglider said…
Charles,

I usually surf in HB depending on the swell (RJ's or Bolsa depending). I am going to have to get a mat meet sorted out this summer / fall. We can get everyone together.

Bruce
Anonymous said…
That would be sweet I usually surf Leo Carillo I'm going out tomorrow I have some time off right now let me know when you're going out next time maybe I can come down and meet you.

Charles
Unknown said…
First wave 1958...Avila Beach...on a mat. Next wave tomorrow...Santa Cruz...on a mat. Most fun I've ever had on a wave...on a mat. Friendliest co-riders ever found...on mats. Will be in San Clemente 3rd week of September...Trestles, Cottons, T Street...hope to see mats.
Anonymous said…
When people ask me if I surf,I say no.
It's beyond that...

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