Do you go in after a good wave?
Do you go in after a bad wave?
I think it ranks up there with the age old Zen classics like “What's the sound of one hand clapping?” or even “What was your original face before you were born?”.
Every surfer has had to answer the riddle was that last wave good enough to be “my last wave”?
Too good a wave and you have topped off your stoke reserve and want to immediately paddle out and get another one.
Too funky of a wave and you think “I don't want that one to be my last one” let me go out and get one more.
So, as they say, the search continues.
For a wave,
not too good
not too bad
A surfer's version of Goldilock's dilemma
Looking for a wave
That's just right
To go in.