/*23 Breaths: a good day indeed*/

Monday, June 2, 2014

a good day indeed

It had been awhile
but when a parking spot opened up
(free parking in Newport is as elusive as a unicorn)
I knew it was going to be a good day

I soon found myself
in the rip
bobbing about like a bit of flotsam
working hard to stay in one place
no place I would rather be

the swell direction, the tide, the beach slope
are all in cahoots
to create some oddly shaped
wedged up mutants of a wave

Not that Wedged up mutant
that's down the coast a bit
I don't mess with it

Plenty of exercise to be had here
trying to stay just at the surf line
picking up the odd
well shaped insider

Always with an eye out
for a crossed up peak outside
or more likely
a thousand yard close out...

The water has warmed up nicely
Testing out the "new" summer fins coming along nicely
getting more waves on Paul's DRP Omni (great mat! Thanks Paul)

a good day indeed

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