As I sit here writing this I am luxuriating in that combination of exhaustion and endorphin high that only a good surf session brings.
I have been in sort of a slump lately, the "great waves" were always somewhere else.
(If you can believe the coconut wireless!)
One of life's truisms is that when you have the time to surf you don't have the money to travel and when you have the money you don't have the time.
I have had the time but local swell and wind machines wouldn't cooperate.
But today that changed.
The swell wasn't that promising and the last few days have been windy.
But every the optimist (and with a fresh pot of coffee) I got to the local spot early.
It looked small but glassy and no one out!
At this point I would like to thank everyone who had a few beers last night and skipped the dawn patrol!
So it was me and three other guys out for the first hour and a half.
Have you ever seen a bear gorging himself on salmon?
That what it felt like!
Nice sized glassy peak,
no one else on it,
take off and pull in,
Spring is here
Here are some shots from around the yard