True Story
so where have you been?
between the Solstice and Monday?
Hiding out mostly
on the internets
playing a lot of bad guitar
failing miserably at giving up espresso
and turning over
in my mind
my latest meetings with
homo sapien surferus
Before what was going to be
a solitaire go out
i was part of the way thru
my pre surf stretching ritual
my new Omni blown up to 23 Breath...
when up pops a young lad
who instead of giving me
either
"what the F is that"
or
"we used to ride those back in the 60's"
both of which I have come to expect
and deal with in some
sort of
new wave
meet and greet
of the surf mat
variety
but no
out of deep
left field
he hits me
with
his best
"we aren't worthy, we aren't worthy...."
complete with arm waves and bows....
Wow!
Freaked
Me
OUT!
and so I haven't been back
to the beach
in three months
Mats are just too mainstream
True story
Comments
I feel guilty reveling in this phenomenal run of surf, in exact relationship to the worsening drought.
A lot of stoke from people in the water in Northern California. Note: stoke but not extra waves.
Anyway, welcome back!
Soon there will be Matter and Matting Monthly print magazines. We can look back at this as the "Golden Age"
Tuskie,
Greetings to the NoCal stokers!
Love from NC
To which I stammered: "Yep! It's worth it though!" Not a good answer. I was somewhat taken aback that he knew what it was yet had this pessimism in his voice. That I couldn't come up with something more profound that conveyed the joyous complexity of mat surfing is disappointing to me. I am a bad ambassador.