stoked beyond description

 

when I first started surfing

I was young

and inexperienced

in the ways of the world

and

I was seduced

the sun increased my supply of vitamin D

by a process known as dermal synthesis

whilst

tanning my hide

and

bleaching my hair

the surf

demanded that I

give up the illusion

of control

and learn to go

with the flow

The first commandment of surfing is

after you paddle out

I'm going to teach you to swim,

at least in the days before the leash...

by the end

of which ever summer it was

I was in pretty good shape

and stoked

beyond

description